Kjunky5
1/2 ton status
^^Having a name like "3 on the tree", I figured you for a manual guy.
Having rebuilt automatics, I'm partial to them. Compression braking in 1st,2nd,and 3rd gear. Ability to lock converter for even more compression braking. Torque multiplying converter. What's not to like. I know you can pull start a manual but you can do that with an auto too. Using an Accusump. One less pedal and stick to worry about. Now having said all that, manuals are fun to drive. Wouldn't want to do it day in and day out though.
Auto>Manual
well said.
j/k
hahaha
now if you had a built 496 big block, an auto may be a better choice.
Having rebuilt automatics, I'm partial to them. Compression braking in 1st,2nd,and 3rd gear. Ability to lock converter for even more compression braking. Torque multiplying converter. What's not to like. I know you can pull start a manual but you can do that with an auto too. Using an Accusump. One less pedal and stick to worry about. Now having said all that, manuals are fun to drive. Wouldn't want to do it day in and day out though.
Auto>Manual
K5dreamer said:now if you had a built 496 big block, an auto may be a better choice.
Nope.
Martin
splain the accusump autromatic pull start thingy part please. How does that work?
It's all personal preference. I like autos, and have converted several others in our club to auto trans after they watched me on the trails. I'm by no means trying to say manuals are bad.
The biggest thing is making sure you are comparing apples to apples (as much as possible considering you are comparing an auto to a manual trans). A good friend runs a factory auto trans and t-case setup but doesn't like the fact he has to use the brakes going down any hill on the trail. I also run a factory auto trans and t-case but rarely have to use the brakes. So what's the difference? His factory setup (C6/205...same as a TH400/205) with 4.10 axles only nets him a 19.1 crawl ratio. My 700r4/241 combo with the same axles gives me 34:1. That's a pretty big difference.
Basically it all depends on the overall gearing. Most people on this board are using the SM465 or NV4500 as the manual trans rep which has a really low granny gear, while a lot are comparing the TH400 or TH350 which have a pretty poor 1st gear. The NP205 t-case also has a pretty poor low range.

My 2 cents again...
If I could build anything I wanted, it would be an auto. It would have low gearing and an overdrive, and be capable full (real) manual shift, and butter soft freeway shift for the ride home...
It would do things like hold me back going downhill (compression braking), and anything else manuals do for me...
I CAN'T AFFORD THIS TRANSMISSION!
So for now I'm stuck with a sm465 and np241. My clutch knee gets to hurting, and it can be tricky navigating some obstacles right now because I have no hand throttle or electric throttle conrol... will be coming though.
Also, how many of you auto guys are able to put your transfer in low, and then take off in second or third gear (in the tranny)? Very easy to do with a cheap sm465...
Auto? At least a manual valve body, maybe more? $$$$$$$$$$$$$
I know of a ford tranny and a toyota tranny that were capable of this from the factory... can't afford either one, and would't think either would mate to a motor I would want to run.
So for now I'm stuck with a sm465 and np241. My clutch knee gets to hurting,
The manual valve bodies that I have dealt with did not allow any engine braking at all in the bottom 2 gears. Granted the last one I had was so old that B&M didn't make parts for it anymore, but that's been my experience.
I think you would need to make the converter lock up at the same time. But the problem with most of the 700r4s and 4l60s I have driven, is that, even when you drop the lever down into 1st, the trans will shift into 2nd when it gets to a certain rpm anyway.
