Are there springs behind front D60 hubs?

[TruckNutzDude]

I was just wondering if there are any springs behind the hubs on D60's to keep tension on the axle shaft? I don't have any springs in mine and my hubs are always full of water. I just put close to $100 in bearings, races and seals in my hubs and I'd rather not have them wasted on my first water crossing because I'm missing some $10 springs had I known they belonged there. If there are springs, can you post the part number or a site/ place that stocks them? TIA -Rob

 

[nvrenuf]

OE Spicer locking hubs will have springs but they are they for hub operation, not tension on the stub axle. There should be a snap ring in the groove about a 1/2" from the outboard end of the stub, this holds tension on the stub axle to pull it up tight against the spindle.

Are you sure the small rubber seals next to the inner spindle bearing (NOT inner wheel bearing) are good? If so, could they be installed backwards?

 

[sweetk30]

only springs in there would be for factory drive flanges.

 

[hack500]

nope. nada no springs. you can always shim the stub shaft to make sure it's tight by either stamping some out of some stainless shimstock or if there's enough room use some thin washers under the snap-ring.

 

[TruckNutzDude]

only springs in there would be for factory drive flanges.

I was reading up on the drive flanges and saw that they used springs. I'm thinking my problem was just the inner wheel bearing seal and I've replaced those. The axle seal on the stub shaft is in good condition. Hopefully no more water gets in my hubs this year. If it still does I'll have to start pulling my hubs after every trip with a water crossing.

 

[4X4HIGH]

There are 3 different seals on the front hub/rotor assembly. You have the large wheel bearing seal in the rotor, then there is a large lip seal that goes over the inside of the stub axle around the slinger, then there is a small lip seal that goes into the spindle just after the spindle bearing. As was said you should have a small C-clip holding tension against the stub axle on the end of the axle after the first portion of the locking hub is installed.

 

[mouse]

nope. nada no springs. you can always shim the stub shaft to make sure it's tight by either stamping some out of some stainless shimstock or if there's enough room use some thin washers under the snap-ring.

Where would you shim to take up slack on the stub axle? I changed out the thrust washer (and other seals of course) but still have a little more movement in the passenger side axle than I would like to see.

 

[4X4HIGH]

If you need to shim you would install shims before installing the C-clip.

 

[mouse]

If you need to shim you would install shims before installing the C-clip.

Are you talking about the c-clip inside the hub? I was under the impression that you could add a thin shim next to the thrust washer to tighten things up.

 

[4X4HIGH]

If you add shims behind the thrust washer you are going to pull the axle inboard and make matters worse. The shims would need to go over the stub axle just before you install the small C-clip[ on the end of the axle. This will pull the axle outboard so that the seals on the inside will mate tightly against the spindle so as to keep water and dirt out.

 

[FWP]

Another area to check out, 2 O-rings on each lockout, one for the seal against the hub, and one for the dial to lockout cap.

Edit- for the Spicer's. I forget what the Warn's have in the dial to body.