CK5
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Atomic MSD fuel injection 77, 454, K15

Didn't see this discussed, but isn't a gauge the easiest part? Meaning the dash gauge or an added gauge can switch between tanks with a simple toggle switch. That let's you watch the levels while transferring fuel between tanks, as you don't want to overfill a tank (it should be able to enter the emissions lines or spill out on the ground) and don't want to run a pump dry.

The bed tank is 20 gallons, how big are the others? Why do you need so much fuel? A week of backcountry?
I do have an aftermarket gauge, on the same frequency as the sender, but I believe putting the tank sideways for space make’s it harder for the sender to be accurate because they are meant to be front and back, for the flow while stopping and starting. So, what I do is, I drain the third tank with the pump, to supersede the flow from the driver side tank, then I drain the driver side, so that the stock gauge won’t show drainage. Then when the third tank gauge shows close to empty I turn the pump off, as to not damage the pump. Then believe it or not, the third tank will gravity flow in the cross over line when the driver side tank has been activated. It seems crazy but it works very well this way. The answer to your last question is the other tanks are 16 gallons. 20+16+16, 52 gallons. We overland, and go high in the cascades, in the snow from where we live, is the purpose for the gas needed. When we go across state, I trailer with my diesel truck to save on my budget. I can get to central Oregon and back with my diesel truck on a full tank, and at 5 bucks a gallon 180 is cheaper than over two hundred for one way. Lol
 
Luckily the three fitting senders can be had in carbed or TBI versions, so either way you are covered there, right? No way around dropping a tank I can see.

It's unfortunate it would be so much additional work, but adding a fitting on top of the primary tank, with a drop tube brazed to it inside the tank running to the bottom, would give you seamless/constant fuel transfer from the other saddle tank as it would automatically siphon/level off as the primary tank draws down. No fuel gauge for the other saddle tank needed. You'd just need to run a sealed cap on the primary tank.

For the tank in the bed that can't be applied, but two senders/pumps is easily controlled.

However. If you tied the two saddle tanks together so that they self level, if you ran the bed tank to the primary tank, as long as the saddle tanks were at, say, 1/4 tank/24 gallons (which the primary tank gauge would tell you, no need to monitor both tank levels as they would always be the same) then you could dump all 20 gallons without concern for overfilling the saddle tanks, nor the pump in the bed tank, since you said it self empties once it starts flowing with the pump so the pump is run only to get a siphon started.

A bit of "risk" not being able to see the bed tanks level, but if you only use it full to empty, and not partially, then it wouldn't matter. It's 20 gallons, you already know you can estimate that will get you X miles.

If you want to play around with the concept yourself, it's easy to do with some water, rubber hose, and plastic bottles with caps serving as fuel tank stand ins.
 
I don't know about self-leveling. What if you have to park off-camber?
 
True, with enough fuel and steep enough sidehill, you could overflow the tank.

Problem for the primary tank which you cant vent or it won't siphon.
 
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