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Auto vs Manual Hubs - Why Swap?

Manual Hubs

First off, get rid of the autos before they break at the worst possible time. Happened on my '91 V2500 and nearly had a looooong walk home. Manuals are easy to install, easy to fix.
Second, running with the manuals locked in won't hurt the drivetrain, as long as your runnning around local. Actually helps to lube front diff. Front dshaft is spinning but not engaged in the tcase until you shift into 4hi/lo. Where I'm at, road conditions change quite abit, especially in winter, run like that all the time with no problems.
 
I would only do this (4low,hubs unlocked)for backing up a trailer or some such low-speed task. The problem is that the outer end of the axle stub is not supported,allowing it to flop around. The only support is the tiny needle-roller bearing inside the spindle. This bearing or the seal which protects it,will eventually get destroyed.
2wd,hubs locked is no problem, as this is exactly how a fulltime system works as far as the front axle is concerned.
 
G.M.H said:
I would only do this (4low,hubs unlocked)for backing up a trailer or some such low-speed task. The problem is that the outer end of the axle stub is not supported,allowing it to flop around. The only support is the tiny needle-roller bearing inside the spindle. This bearing or the seal which protects it,will eventually get destroyed.
2wd,hubs locked is no problem, as this is exactly how a fulltime system works as far as the front axle is concerned.
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How do you figure? they are still engaged in the inner part of the manual hub it just isn't engaging the wheel hub. I dont see this as a problem or wear issue.
 
question while on the topic of manual hubs.....i have warn manual lockin hubs in my 90 blaze.....how do i go from four wheel drive....unlock then lock back up or wat?....i would appreciate it
 
BIGBLAZE433 said:
question while on the topic of manual hubs.....i have warn manual lockin hubs in my 90 blaze.....how do i go from four wheel drive....unlock then lock back up or wat?....i would appreciate it
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The instructions are at the WARN site.
 
BIGBLAZE433 said:
question while on the topic of manual hubs.....i have warn manual lockin hubs in my 90 blaze.....how do i go from four wheel drive....unlock then lock back up or wat?....i would appreciate it
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yup. If you anticipate the need for using the 4wd click the hubs into the lock position. Depending on terrain and what it calls for shift tcase into 4hi or 4lo. With manual hubs the need to back up after disengaging the tcase(4wd) is not needed like with auto hubs. :D Happy Wheeling!!!:D
 
G.M.H said:
I would only do this (4low,hubs unlocked)for backing up a trailer or some such low-speed task. The problem is that the outer end of the axle stub is not supported,allowing it to flop around. The only support is the tiny needle-roller bearing inside the spindle. This bearing or the seal which protects it,will eventually get destroyed.
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Good point. Never thought of that.
 
uhhhhhh ok

Ok I have read the thread and a lot of this seems to be confusing. I have already decided to get manual hubs (premium) from Warn. What I don't know is should I get the conversion kit to go along with it? I have two Blazers... One 87 and one 77. The 77 is getting the hubs for now and the 87 later. The 77 has a Dana 44 front end and Corparate 12 bolt rear end. It will have the 700r4 and 208 from the 87 in it in a couple weeks. Now should I get the conversion kit and why? I thought all you had to do is just switch the hub thingies and you were good to go. Is this not the case? I have been tinkering with street rods (very mild) for some time but I am new to the 4X4 scene and in many cases learning as I spend the money. HA! Probably sounds familliar to a lot of us. I would just like to get the knowledge of experienced people before I WASTE money I don't have.
James
 
Yea, IIRC Warn was vague on application of the conversion kit. I bought my Warns at 4wheelparts, "Do you need the conversion kit? Chit if I know" This was for '85 1/2T corp. 10b. The parts guy and I agreed if I don't need it, I return it, that was my reason for not buying them mailorder and I wanted to git-er-done so an extra ~$20 bucks OK. And IIRC, the difference was six or three screws to close the whole shebang. Mine used the basic hubs, no conversion, six screws. Its all really simpler than it sounds.:D
 
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The 87 will not need a conversion kit. I bought a set of standard Warn hubs for my 87 K5 and no "conversion" was necessary. Installation was simple. 1) Remove automatic hub parts 2)Install manual hub parts.
 
Re: The conversion kit issue.
With the 208 you are putting in you wont need it.
The only time you need a conversion kit is if you have the full time 4wd 203 xfer case.
 
Just keep running the auto hubs offroad and you'll quickly see why you should swap, no explanation needed from anyone else.
 
Another issue

I already spun a spindle nut on the 87 and had to buy a new spindle for it cause the nut stripped it out. No doubt to go with the locking hubs but here's one you guys probably know the answer to. The hubs on the 77.....no allen screws whatsoever...The 87 has the six cap screws but the 77 has nothing at all. It just looks like a cap.Solid. Common sense is telling me that it may be one of those external hubs I read about some in this thread but then again, I don't know a lot about the 4x4 thing yet but I'm learning thnx to you guys, that is. I do know for sure that it is a d44 because I cross referenced the diagrams provided by this site. I'm going outside to take a picture of it a post in the next reply.

James
 
Here are the pics. One is of the hub, one is the intake and carb waiting to go in, and the last is the new additions this weekend.

100_1566.jpg

100_1562.jpg

100_1567.jpg
 
Chaddy said:
Also, auto's are always turning and so is all of your shafts, so it puts wear and tear on everything when your only in 2wd.
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Plus gas mileage!!!!

my 1996 gmc jimmy has autos but it is a street truck for the wife as a dd... so it will keep the autos... never have to backup to get out of 4wd though... I actually shift to 4wd while driving down the road (in the rain or bad snow weather) then right out... no problems....:crazy:
 
A Little Confused

Ok I'm gonna try and peice this together. The hubs are locked in all the time, right? This may throw a wrench in my plan to put the 700R4 and 208 from my 87 in it right? What would the swap involve? I really want to keep the d44 front end but the 203 and th350 have to go. In the tranny or transfer, something is terribly loose. Plus I had a lot of stuff put in the 700R4 to make it beefy enough to handle the abuse I AM going to put it through. I can have the th350 and 203 rebuilt later but for now I really need the other setup (MONEY). I have a feeling this aint gonna be as simple as I originally thought.

On a better note, the 2 1/2 dual exhaust and headers go on Fri. Alluminized tubing (16 Guage I think???) turbo mufflers like Flowmasters and chrome tips all the way out. I am paying 275 for all of it with the labor. I know a guy here that builds super modified dirt track cars. Is this a good deal? He says the mufflers are just like the Flowmasters but at a fraction of the cost. He says he has them on his own truck, too. I do have to put the headers on myself but with a sawzall and bout 45 min I think it won't be a problem.

James
 
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