CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

Awesome 1972 C/60 grain truck

Yep found another bad rod bearing, from all the oil on the transmission it looks like the rear seal has been out forever and they probably ran it out of oil. Its getting pulled out and gone through.
 
Yep found another bad rod bearing, from all the oil on the transmission it looks like the rear seal has been out forever and they probably ran it out of oil. Its getting pulled out and gone through.
I was going to say at least check the main bearings too
 
I’ll do a cheap re-ring and bearings on if the cylinder walls and crank measure out. Soaking everything in degreaser for a couple days now. I really miss being able to bring the steam pressure washer home from work!
 
Well the engine is out and the #7 rod is bent, and it had .020" shims between the cap and rod which I've never seen before. The crank, rods, and block are all standard size without any damage that I can see so far. Has anyone seen rods shimmed before?Bent No 7 rod.jpgEngine pulled.jpg
 
and if i recall these tall deck engines are forged crank and rods . the 2 i have here on the shop floor for scrap are forged .

so that bent rod took 1 hell of a load to do this to it .
 
Yea from the condition of the rest of the engine I don't know how it happened, either got low on oil or the governor didn't kick in. There is still cross hatching in the cylinders and there isn't a ridge, and the crank is nice and smooth. I'll have it all the way down tomorrow and then steam clean it all and see what everything else looks like.
 
Thats the plan, I'll run a ball hone in the cylinders to freshen them up, paint it and see what happens.
 
Was they trying to make up for the bent rod with the shims? Did it have a special offset bearing of some sorts otherwise it would have been loose on the journal right?
 
I can't tell, I see that the shims were a fix in the 70's and back especially on tractors to make up for tight bearing clearances. Allis Chalmers even has a chart in the manual for the WD models on which shims to use. I'm guessing this was a band aid for a failing rod and it didn't work.
 
Does anyone know the stock 366 cam specs? This one is in bad shape, and I'd like to go with an RV cam around .480-.500 lift if my springs will take it. Crankshaft is at the shop being polished now.
 
unless you re invent the wheel these are 3,400 rpm gov units and thats it . some guys mod and squeeze 3,800 rpm for little better shifts . there real heavy in the engine parts so rpm is held back . i would just go stock . if you need a good stock one i might have one here in 1 i have yet torn down from a rusted shut pistion to the bore .
 
Thats what I'm thinking too, the cam bearings need replaced and I might pull the governed holley off and put a quadrajet on it depending on how it runs. I'll machine the intake to take the spread bore if needed. I need a 427TD to fall off a turnip truck around here, I'll have 500-700 into this engine by the time it fires up.
 
lots of guys prefer the 366 over the 427 in these trucks for some reason .

if going different carb i hate holley but they make a great little mid 400 cfm for this swap as they dont need much more than that at 3,600-3,800 rpm .

i went edelbrock performance mach choke 600cfm from reading a few guys did this and love it . i went petronics hei ignition mod with adjustable rev limiter and will set it at 3,800 rpm .
 
From what I have seen and asked around, the 427 didn't offer much more power and would get hot quicker. I'll stick with this 366 just to keep it stock and I'll only be hauling wood chips and light stuff anyway. An HEI will get added but thats about it.
 
Guy next door use to drive a fire truck tankerand always said he wished he had about 300 - 400 more rpm over that stock 3,400 rpm max as it killed him on hill pulls .
 
There square bore only from what i have seen . Qjet = intake and spacers to fit tall deck .

And as i said to much cfm not good they dont need it . Even the 600 edelbrock i got is about max .

Guy on another forum tried a 750 and it had very pour performance. Went down to a 600 and WOW . . PLUS engine masters proved to much is not better . They just did a 4150 to a 4500 dominator and more power from the std 4150 . But yes the tuning on the 4500 is crazy better .

These motors are stupid low rpm max so dont over think it with cfm or you choke it with to much cfm and kill flow threw the carb . If i recall 3,400 rpm on a 366 is 380 -390 cfm at 85 -90% vme . And thats generous on the vme .
 
It is now running and driving minus brakes. The engine got new bearings and a set of new pistons, lapped the valves in and did new seals. The guides are loose but I don’t care. The hydraulic dump works great, and so does everything else but the radio.
I can’t find a rebuild kit for the master cylinder and a new one is $120 to my house, so I honed it and called it a day. The rubber brake lines are swollen shut so those are getting ordered and then it will be on the road. The next big step will be finding non-lock ring dayton rims and some used tubeless tires.
 

Latest Posts

Top Bottom