No parking brake right now, so mine should be fine where ever, right?
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.
Axle swap and crossover steering install!
- Thread starter mr.smartass
- Start date
No parking brake right now, so mine should be fine where ever, right?
yup. but if you switched the calipers to the other side the bleeders would still be up if the brackets were in their correct orientation. either way works but to me the way you have them just looks wrong since automakers always have them at the back of the wheel.
But then again some people own fords.
not everybody can do everything right. 
Just took the rear end on it's maiden voyage, nothing 'sploded! But we'll see how the next 500 miles go... 
Still have a couple of things to do...
1. Install shocks, picked up my hardware at Lowes tonight, new bolts nylon lock washers and some flat washers, but it's way to late.
2. Bleed the brakes again... I don't even know if I had rear brakes during the test drive but I was driving like an old man around the neighborhood.
3. Run down a new leak on the transfercase... It's not leaking at the rear output anymore, so I think the input seal and new tail housing did the trick, but now it's leaking from somewhere on the front. Looks like the front output, but it shouldn't be turning at all so I don't know why it would leak, add check hubs to make sure they're unlocked to the list.
4. Grease the rear U-Joint... in my rush to finish I some how forgot this minor detail.
5.Top off gear oil in the rear. Just to make sure I can't squeeze any more in after the wheel bearings got all they wanted...
6. Remove passenger side step. It looked ghey with both of them... even gheyer with just one.
7. Pray nothing grenades in the rear.
That's about it, I'll be test driving it some more tomorrow after work, because Wednesday it'll take over the 10 mile commute to work and back. I'll snag some pics. Hopefully by next weekend I'll be ready to tackle the front.
But we'll see how the next 500 miles go... Still have a couple of things to do...
1. Install shocks, picked up my hardware at Lowes tonight, new bolts nylon lock washers and some flat washers, but it's way to late.
2. Bleed the brakes again... I don't even know if I had rear brakes during the test drive but I was driving like an old man around the neighborhood.
3. Run down a new leak on the transfercase... It's not leaking at the rear output anymore, so I think the input seal and new tail housing did the trick, but now it's leaking from somewhere on the front. Looks like the front output, but it shouldn't be turning at all so I don't know why it would leak, add check hubs to make sure they're unlocked to the list.
4. Grease the rear U-Joint... in my rush to finish I some how forgot this minor detail.
5.Top off gear oil in the rear. Just to make sure I can't squeeze any more in after the wheel bearings got all they wanted...
6. Remove passenger side step. It looked ghey with both of them... even gheyer with just one.
7. Pray nothing grenades in the rear.
That's about it, I'll be test driving it some more tomorrow after work, because Wednesday it'll take over the 10 mile commute to work and back. I'll snag some pics. Hopefully by next weekend I'll be ready to tackle the front.
uao85
1/2 ton status
Yeah Matt, but have you taken it out and put it back in solo style?
haha I knew there had to be someone out there that swapped tcases the same way I do, lol. Everyone looks at me kinda funny when I tell them I pull my tranny and transfer case out by hand(seperately though of course). I usually just unbolt the tcase with it over my while I am laying on the cement, lower it onto my chest set it aside onto plywood or a furniture dolley, and then do the same thing with the tranny. Although since I am swapping in a 4l80e, I might just use my floor jack so I dont shoot my internal organs out my backside and onto the driveway
. I can pick it up while standing upright, but I dont know about maneuvering it under my truck by hand. Build is looking good bud, keep it up.
Remington
Not to mention I always end up drenched in Dexron/Mercon III...
And thanks, first time doing gears so fingers are crossed.
And thanks, first time doing gears so fingers are crossed.
Bled the rear brakes some more... thought I'd check the front as well. Twisted the passenger side front bleeder screw right off, and still no fluid came out of it.The caliper is working, I think it's just plugged up with dirt or something, even though I pumped the pedal a lot, none ever came out.
Also found a radiator leak and discovered that the stock shock mounts don't work. I have the weld on shock tabs from DIY4X... Guess I should have thought about putting them on before installing the axle.
Too busy not getting anything accomplished to take pics...
The caliper is working, I think it's just plugged up with dirt or something, even though I pumped the pedal a lot, none ever came out.Also found a radiator leak and discovered that the stock shock mounts don't work. I have the weld on shock tabs from DIY4X... Guess I should have thought about putting them on before installing the axle.
Too busy not getting anything accomplished to take pics...
ThaMule
Mursenary
Looks good there Justin. I might have to rent your services when I get home. Can you say ROAD TRIP, to Alabama of course. All the beer a yeti can drink and some wimens too!
Well I was right. Not trying to be a d!ck, but I did remember a truck with the calipers on the front side of the axel. My old '03 gmc 2500hd, my fathers '02 chevy 2500hd, and just rotated the tires on my '07 GMC 2500hd. All in the front side of the axel. Then checked my friends Furd and they are on the rear side of the axel. Just thought I would share the info. If you are not running Caddy calipers I would not bother swapping the location.
I'm not, and I wasn't going to... but thanks, I don't feel completely retarded now.
I gotta get back out there...
I gotta get back out there...
Mudstud
1/2 ton status
Back before they started putting calipers on the front side of the axle I was told they put them to the rear because of the tendency of the fronts kicking stuff up on them. Water, rocks etc. More wear and tear from the elements?
3 months later and nothing accomplished, procrastination isn't a bad habit, it's a way of life.
Luckily one of my best friends just moved up from the coast and in with me. The good thing is, he might be more excited about working on my truck then I am...
Heading out tomorrow evening to finish the front.
I have one question though. The center pins for the springs on the rear weren't long enough to go through the spring and the zero rate so I simply left the zero rates off. The problem is I still want to use the zero rates on the front to move the axle forward 1.5", with a saggy rear end already, this is going to make it look even worse. Any ideas?
I'm thinking I'll remove the bottom leaf from the rear springs (it's actually an inch thick plate) and install the zero rates in their place. Install the zero rates on the front and see how much difference there is and order a shackle flip to even it out, you guys think this will work?
Thanks again.
Luckily one of my best friends just moved up from the coast and in with me. The good thing is, he might be more excited about working on my truck then I am...
Heading out tomorrow evening to finish the front.
I have one question though. The center pins for the springs on the rear weren't long enough to go through the spring and the zero rate so I simply left the zero rates off. The problem is I still want to use the zero rates on the front to move the axle forward 1.5", with a saggy rear end already, this is going to make it look even worse. Any ideas?
I'm thinking I'll remove the bottom leaf from the rear springs (it's actually an inch thick plate) and install the zero rates in their place. Install the zero rates on the front and see how much difference there is and order a shackle flip to even it out, you guys think this will work?
Thanks again.
I have one question though. The center pins for the springs on the rear weren't long enough to go through the spring and the zero rate so I simply left the zero rates off. The problem is I still want to use the zero rates on the front to move the axle forward 1.5", with a saggy rear end already, this is going to make it look even worse. Any ideas?
I'm thinking I'll remove the bottom leaf from the rear springs (it's actually an inch thick plate) and install the zero rates in their place. Install the zero rates on the front and see how much difference there is and order a shackle flip to even it out, you guys think this will work?
Any takers?
You saw that, too? That was my first initial thought.i though ur truck was being held up by the tie downs on ur spoiler for a second lol
You can use grd. 8 Allen head bolts to replace center pins, they are actually stronger. You may need to slightly enlarge the hole in the axle spring perch to fit the head of the allen boltAny takers?
WJACKSON11X
1/2 ton status
3/8 - 16 Grade 8 Allen head bolts is what I used. They fit perfect.
Thanks for the tip guys, that's probably what I'll use on the rear but for now I basically said screw the zero rates for the front... The springs look like they're going to clear the tie rod so maybe it won't be a problem.
Got the steering box and the axle bolted in place. Probably work on it some more tomorrow, and I'll grab some pics. I'm just ready to have this thing back on the road/in the mud.
Got the steering box and the axle bolted in place. Probably work on it some more tomorrow, and I'll grab some pics. I'm just ready to have this thing back on the road/in the mud.
Well it's pretty much done... axle is in, steering is hooked up, and I even replaced the booster and MC.
Just gotta work out the bugs now... like the vicious death wobble...
It's probably due to the fact that I haven't put much effort into adjusting the steering yet.
I'm going to go back and install the zero rates as well... Tie rod clears but it's way to close for comfort.
Quick to do list... Zero rates, rear shocks, tie up brake lines, adjust steering, grease everything, fluid in the front end, and replace radiator (not project related but I just noticed it).
Pics will be up as soon as I can find a camera that works.
Just gotta work out the bugs now... like the vicious death wobble...
It's probably due to the fact that I haven't put much effort into adjusting the steering yet.I'm going to go back and install the zero rates as well... Tie rod clears but it's way to close for comfort.
Quick to do list... Zero rates, rear shocks, tie up brake lines, adjust steering, grease everything, fluid in the front end, and replace radiator (not project related but I just noticed it).
Pics will be up as soon as I can find a camera that works.
t89blazer
1/2 ton status
Everything looks good. I hope that you are keeping notes because I may need to pick you brain when I do my swap. What master cylinder are you running?
Later,
Tim
Later,
Tim
