CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

Back In the Saddle Again

Mine was great to drive at first when I lived in Moab then when I went to Idaho in the rain and snow I quickly found out the rear would pass the front and put me in the ditch on anything more than a very light braking application.
 
Mine was great to drive at first when I lived in Moab then when I went to Idaho in the rain and snow I quickly found out the rear would pass the front and put me in the ditch on anything more than a very light braking application.
Yeah mine was totally fine at first. Like almost no difference in the way it stopped but it definitely changed over time and is now just a butt hole puckering time driving it lol
 
10 psi residual pressure valve in the rear brake circuit. allowing the rears to activate before the fronts get to 40+ psi. Not all newer drum brake systems have a residual pressure valve. Open a rear bleeder screw and see if fluid is under pressure
 
I got new wheel bearings and races from ORD found some pitting in the inner race on one hub. I got this axle from a guy from WA near the same area I was from he brought it down here with him when he moved and inspecting the grease it looks like it went through some water a couple times. Which is pretty normal up there in the rainiest part of the country. So I am just going to do the hubs. Found the wheel studs on Torque King for $90 for a set of 16 :confused1: if anyone knows where I can get those for a better deal let me know.
 
Found the wheel studs at a local auto store #610-180 is the part number for the 3/4 ton hubs 9/16-18 studs
 
New M/C on went for test drive and my booster went out. :rotfl: It was on its way out making air whoosh noises before I put the MC on but was still working relatively ok and this last round of bleeding the brakes must have killed it. IMG_5754.jpeg
 
Top Bottom