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Back In the Saddle Again

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I thought about just looping the P/s ports. The P/s pump could be as much as 1500 psi, esp with a few throttle snaps. That pressure is reduced by the steering gear, not sure the return side will handle it w/o issues. Plus that much pressure going straight back into the reservoir, is going to introduce air.
Maybe easiest way would be to plum a steering box into circuit. I have 1 you can borrow if this the direction you choose.
 
Wes Harden said:
I thought about just looping the P/s ports. The P/s pump could be as much as 1500 psi, esp with a few throttle snaps. That pressure is reduced by the steering gear, not sure the return side will handle it w/o issues. Plus that much pressure going straight back into the reservoir, is going to introduce air.
Maybe easiest way would be to plum a steering box into circuit. I have 1 you can borrow if this the direction you choose.
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Not a bad idea. I do have the new steering box sitting on the shelf. I was thinking of just firing it off and checking for leaks. Not letting it get to temp and not even running a belt.
 
Wes Harden said:
I thought about just looping the P/s ports. The P/s pump could be as much as 1500 psi, esp with a few throttle snaps. That pressure is reduced by the steering gear, not sure the return side will handle it w/o issues. Plus that much pressure going straight back into the reservoir, is going to introduce air.
Maybe easiest way would be to plum a steering box into circuit. I have 1 you can borrow if this the direction you choose.
Click to expand...
I dont want to prematurely wear in the rings which may cause them to not seat. The test fire wont even last 2 minutes and wont be at idle probably minimum 1500 RPMS. Cant break this engine in on a stand has to be done in the vehicle or on a dyno
 
The throttle on this is so touchy it’s unreal. Set the advance so it could idle. Have heat cycled it twice so I can tighten headers and valve covers. Going to do one last heat cycle before calling it good. Can’t believe how easy these engines are to put together.
 
Congrats, nice work!

I wouldn't keep running it without some load on it, you're going to need to remove the headers to install it anyway.
 
folkenheath said:
Congrats, nice work!

I wouldn't keep running it without some load on it, you're going to need to remove the headers to install it anyway.
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Was talkin with a bunch of ls guys they say 3 heat cycles tighten up covers and headers and it’s ready for ring break in. Definitely glad I fired up on the stand because setting the advance would have been a pain in the truck. But it’s pretty much ready to go now.
 
Yep, was going to send it in to be done but you know that old saying. Decided to look for myself see what’s up. It definitely ate the input shaft cup bearing and whoever put this 5th gear lock nut on didn’t torque it down and put it on backwards, also the the 1-2 shift fork is gone. Really not as much carnage as I thought there would be. Need to make a couple tools and replace a bearing puller I destroyed trying to remove the counter shaft rear bearing, no idea how I’m going to get that off either at the moment. But overall not too bad. The bearing races look good. The gears and synchros all have even wear. The chips on the countershaft don’t appear to be in the mesh pattern and I feel solid reusing these but may just buy new. Will keep updated.
 
After Speaking with torque king and going over what I witnessed. I will need a master overhaul kit. New main shaft, 5th gear sprocket and possibly new input shaft. $1500 in parts.
 
K5Devil said:
After Speaking with torque king and going over what I witnessed. I will need a master overhaul kit. New main shaft, 5th gear sprocket and possibly new input shaft. $1500 in parts.
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Welcome to the 4500 club. Though I’d look at a rebuilder. The one in my truck ran me $1800. All in.
 
ZooMad75 said:
Welcome to the 4500 club. Though I’d look at a rebuilder. The one in my truck ran me $1800. All in.
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Aint nobody worth the onions I trust to do this kind of work out here Id probably end up doing it myself anyways and paying for it twice lol.

I am $800 into this one already. Which isn't bad and I could core it for that. Just going to take me a long time but that isn't a big deal either. Ill do one shaft at a time. I can't wait to get the case all painted up. I want the new main shaft and to delete the rear damper. New shaft provides more grip for 5th gear. This one had the orange/red metal crush from either the gear or the shaft splines so it was on its way out. Someone did attempt a fix on it at least once I know this because of the damage on the 5th gear nut and that the nut was put in backwards. I think they did that so they had more material to drift down into the threads to try and lock it in.

Mainly the only tool I need is the 5th gear nut wrench which I already ordered. I have a press available to me from a few different people.
 
The guy I got mine through only does manual transmissions and manual t-cases. Mine has been flawless. Plus he does his with brass synchros instead of the stock fiber units. He rebuilds every manual unit ATS diesel sells too. Toured his shop and the assembly area is hospital level clean.

But shipping would kill the deal for sure. I get you want to do it, nothing against it. I didn’t want to invest a bunch in tools and get reamed by torq-king for replacement parts. Plus I didn’t want to wait, so factor in my time having value too, it was easy for me to call him up and bring cash when ready. The bonus being 20 minutes from work to pick it up. I’m lucky he’s close. But that’s one advantage to being in a large city vs a small one like havasu.
 
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