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"Backcountry Limo"

Got a quote for exhaust today. Looks like I'll have a few weeks here at home to do some maintenance and upgrades before November Hunting and the holidays show up.
About 450 to get it done the way I want. Single 3" really quiet. :)
 
I just got mine done yesterday. Manifolds back into single flowmaster, my local shop did it all for $250. Of course I have a few less feet of pipe to run. I wanted a quiet but healthy sound, its a little louder than I expected, but better than the old glasspack.

I still want to get up and wheel in your neck of the woods.... someday.
 
We'd love to have you join us. You'll have to plan a couple weeks to drive out, wheel, explore, fix and drive back!
 
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Got to play with a few jeeps this weekend. I kept hearing, "That thing gets around pretty good for a heavy big rig."

Love it

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I had patched my exhaust again Saturday night after work. It didn't hold, I broke a hanger and have another knarly leak. I haven't checked but it sounds like a possible broke header. The shop that was supposed to do my exhaust hasn't called me back. I'm currently driving it everyday also cause were working to many hours for me to drive the shop truck. I might just do the exhaust myself. Screw it, we'll see what I come up with in the next couple weeks
 
Oh yeah. And I had an Asian tour group show up when I was changing a ujoint. One of them came over and helped a little. Did not understand each other verbally at all. Still pretty cool though. Later in the day. Brycen and I were railing in 2wd when the tundra rig tours came by. Guess what group was on there?! Yep. We gave them a show
 
I really should wrench on the limo this weekend. I'm gonna go hunting instead. Next weekend the plan will be wrenching. Got a new guy at work that might help motivate me to wrench off the clock also. The windshield needs to be changed and sealed. Might have to pull the tranny also. The pump doesn't want to pick up when cold.
 
Nice build man, that burb is flexy!!
so Im literally just walking to the shop, I've already welded ORD steering brace kit in the stock location. If i use the zero rate and move the axle back with those, it should only move it ahead 2"? then my steering should clear fine Im thinking cause i built my own zero rates last go around that actually moved the axle ahead 2"
I ordered normal Zero rates from Kurt at Dy4x when i was getting the spring hangers and some fabrication parts for the build. Thanks for any imput as this build is not that popular on the web, i have been taking lots of pics as im doing a frame up crew cab with cummins 6bt 24 valve.
 
If you measure the distance from center pin to front eye of spring. Subtract the original from the new spring measurement. A positive number will move the axle forward. A negative number will move back.

Measure the distance you move the front eye. Again, positive number means forward and negative backwards.

Add those two numbers together to get the distance forward. If you get a zero rate that will move it one way or another to get close to that 2" mark than you'll probably be fine if you have any kind of lift spring.

I'd have to go back into my build to find my forward distance for sure but IIRC it's 5". That with the Ballistic hysteer and hydro assist ram. I had to move the steering box as far forward as possible.
 
Build party at work today. FNG has a Cherokee on 33" that needs a little prep before the tree hunt.

Goal today

Webasto coolant heater
New cable on the winch
2 50' winch extensions
1 100' winch extension
Fix exhaust again
Clean interior for wrenching reasons
Tie down points in cargo
Coolant/oil leaks
Simple roof rack for Yakima space booster
Add extra cross links to chains
 
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I was going to do a video on fixing a snapped winch cable or trail repairing a kink. But I'm going to have to get better at it and order the correct pieces. So here is for the ck5 guys though.
Start by unraveling a good end of cable.

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Make a loop with the core strand and run three of the 6 outer strands with it.
Take the other three strands and go the opposite direction. Make sure you get all 6 rotated completely around the core. The loop won't be tight if the braid/twist is loose.

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I know it as a farmers eye. Works great in a pinch.
For a more permanent eye. A crimp/collar should have been slid down the cable first. After the eye is made. Put a thimble in the loop and move the collar up tight. One or two sizes larger will make that part easier.

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Put some tension on the cable to tighten the eye up. Use a hammer to smash the collar. A proper tool to do it is over $300. So I use a hammer.
I will again say the this is a trail fix or temporary repair for most people.
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If you have something to cover the Jagger's. It is advised as they hurt. I used a piece of rubber hoses and tape.
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Slapped a rack together. Pretty simple design but functional. I didn't think id like it so I didn't worry about making it pretty. Once I put it on and looked at it, I can see some potential. Since Jess and I are arguing over who gets a full blown roof rack first. This one will have be shat it is for now.
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So I ran out of fuel last night on the way home. Barely idled to the station for a fill up.

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Slapped a rack together. Pretty simple design but functional. I didn't think id like it so I didn't worry about making it pretty. Once I put it on and looked at it, I can see some potential. Since Jess and I are arguing over who gets a full blown roof rack first. This one will have be shat it is for now.
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Got any pics of how you bolted it to the roof?
 
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