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Bad Valve Guides?

It would be a bit more accurate to measure a piston, with the vernier caliper. The top of the bore can be deceiving. I could not find a reference to the numbers in the previous post, the video I can't tell if the pistons are marked.
No head gasket is odd, says to me, the left over parts pile was assembled and sold off as complete. This engine requires complete inspection, and parts identification.
 
Wes Harden said:
It would be a bit more accurate to measure a piston, with the vernier caliper. The top of the bore can be deceiving. I could not find a reference to the numbers in the previous post, the video I can't tell if the pistons are marked.
No head gasket is odd, says to me, the left over parts pile was assembled and sold off as complete. This engine requires complete inspection, and parts identification.
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I can take it all down, clean, inspect etc…..but I’m afraid I will mess it up putting it back together.
 
Always a concern but you have a great resource here, no question is a dumb question. Only ignoring sound advise puts project in peril.
 
The engine was definitely pulled because of the cam. It’s a AFM delete motor but I suspect the VVT failed. The first cam bearing looked rough.

the cylinder walls looked beautiful, no issues. I pulled #3 and #4 rod caps. They look good I think, catch catch my finger anywhere. Need to pull the rest of them.

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Pull the oil pump and inspect for debris from cam lifters fail.
The rods look nice.
 
Operator238 said:
The engine was definitely pulled because of the cam. It’s a AFM delete motor but I suspect the VVT failed. The first cam bearing looked rough.

the cylinder walls looked beautiful, no issues. I pulled #3 and #4 rod caps. They look good I think, catch catch my finger anywhere. Need to pull the rest of them.

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Because of the cam/lifter being wiped out all that material has gone through the entire oiling system and there just ain’t no confidence that the filter caught it all.
This means complete tear down and thorough cleaning and cam bearings at a minimum if there are plans for any real expectations for this engine.
Many, many, many LS’s have had these lifter issues and just replaced the worn parts but since the motor is out you would be well advised to do it right.
Just an opinion.
 
folkenheath said:
The machine shop having a good reputation is even more important, lots of critical dimensions and finishes to easily mess up.
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Man, I’m all over the place but you’re exactly right.

The rod bearings are .010 feet undersized, so the crank has been ground, the bores have been bored, cylinder walls are in good shape.

I’m tempted to just change rod bearings and bolts and clean it up and run it. I would blow all the passages with compressed air etc.

I'd like to change the main bearings, clean all the pistons etc and put it back together. However my uncle said he tried to do that on his airplane and had a hard time trying to get the rings to reseat. He recommended not to take the pistons out of the bores.
 
folkenheath said:
The machine shop having a good reputation is even more important, lots of critical dimensions and finishes to easily mess up.
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This is so very true!
Your machine shop work is no place to take a risk with or try and find a bargain to save money.

Research your choices carefully and don’t be afraid to travel a little if there is a worthy shop in a nearby city.

All of the trusted folks at the worthy machine shops directly around me have gone and up-n-died on me locally so I now travel over an hour for a trusted shop for any machine work.There are plenty of “good enough” shops around but going for the best available is worth the effort.

Just like said up above, quality machine work is just as or more important than parts selection - proper tolerances and cleanliness and parts selection are paramount to not only overall power outcome but longevity.
If the funds for a proven top notch reputable machine shop are out of the budget then wait until they are - it will be worth it!
 
Operator238 said:
Man, I’m all over the place but you’re exactly right.

The rod bearings are .010 feet undersized, so the crank has been ground, the bores have been bored, cylinder walls are in good shape.

I’m tempted to just change rod bearings and bolts and clean it up and run it. I would blow all the passages with compressed air etc.

I'd like to change the main bearings, clean all the pistons etc and put it back together. However my uncle said he tried to do that on his airplane and had a hard time trying to get the rings to reseat. He recommended not to take the pistons out of the bores.
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If you put new rings in, at a minimum you need to ball hone the bores with a drill, they need a fresh hone to seat correctly.

If you want to take the time to try it that way after cleaning everything you can try it, but there is some risk.

If you put new rod bolts in you typically need to recondition the rods, but I'd have to research that on the powdered metal cracked LS rod caps. Usually you can't just put new bolts in and run it because the stock bolts often align the cap.

At this point how do you know the rings were installed correctly? A ball hone isn't very expensive, but that assumes the bores are round and true and dimensionally correct, it just puts a fresh crosshatch on it with little material removed if done correctly.

That crank looks turned but never polished? Can you feel anything on the journal with your fingernail?

I wouldn't trust the any bearings or oil gallies to be clean enough.
 
folkenheath said:
If you put new rings in, at a minimum you need to ball hone the bores with a drill, they need a fresh hone to seat correctly.

If you want to take the time to try it that way after cleaning everything you can try it, but there is some risk.

If you put new rod bolts in you typically need to recondition the rods, but I'd have to research that on the powdered metal cracked LS rod caps. Usually you can't just put new bolts in and run it because the stock bolts often align the cap.

At this point how do you know the rings were installed correctly? A ball hone isn't very expensive, but that assumes the bores are round and true and dimensionally correct, it just puts a fresh crosshatch on it with little material removed if done correctly.

That crank looks turned but never polished? Can you feel anything on the journal with your fingernail?

I wouldn't trust the any bearings or oil gallies to be clean enough.
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I don’t know if they ever seated but the walls don’t look glazed. I can hone. I can do that and put new rings in I suppose. At this point I probably should. At the end of the day, I can always just take it to a machine shop to fix it. At this point I probably should just totally tear it down.
 
So seating the ring on this application starts with the hone hatch, then the after running break in.
Which for me is after any cam break in, all fluids double checked, leaks addressed , and buttoned up to test drive. Accelerate to 45 50mph easy throttle, deccel to 10mph no brakes, Accelerate to 50 gradually again. Repete 10-15 times. Need a long vacant road. I think you can find one in Texas
 
Chickntrk said:
I wouldn’t trust anything on this engine without a complete tear down.
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That’s fair. I pulled the mains and they too look great (honestly the look new). I’m just afraid of popping pistons and reinstalling after cleaning as I have heard they might not re-seat. I guess I can hone but I don’t have a torque plate, I’m tempted to leave the cylinders in tact, change bearings, clean, blow the passages and reassemble.
 
Was the price right on this engine? Good work so far, I wouldn’t have made it as far as you have without throwing in the towel and taking to a machine shop, I’d be a nervous wreck I’d screw something up.
 
bigjimmy82 said:
Was the price right on this engine? Good work so far, I wouldn’t have made it as far as you have without throwing in the towel and taking to a machine shop, I’d be a nervous wreck I’d screw something up.
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I paid 1k, 6.0 motors are going for quite a bit these days
 
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