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Battery relocation (Update: Now the questions start...)

readymix

3/4 ton status
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Murrieta, California
I just found out that my battery is about to fall out of the truck....so I guess it is time to relocate it.
Would like to put it inside the toolbox in my bed. I think the best solution is to have it in a box, but I could just bolt the factory tray inside and use the hold down in it. Either way I will need to have some sort of cover for it. I always keep tons of crap in the toolbox and would hate for something to short the battery out.

Thoughts, suggestions, pics, links, whatever.

Group 78 battery. Not an optima so those boxes will not work.
This one:
http://www.partsamerica.com/Product...MfrPartNumber=ORB78DT84&PartType=5005&PTSet=A

Oh....I need this right now, and as cheap as possible. I still need to fix the steering also.
 
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=SUM%2DG1230&N=700+115&autoview=sku
sum-g1230_w.jpg

OR
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=SUM-G1230-K&N=700+115&autoview=sku
sum-g1230-k_w.jpg
 
In regards to your first post and "I always keep tons of crap in the toolbox and would hate for something to short the battery out."
Think about it. My answer would be a resounding NO.
There are cheaper enclosures thou. But not as stout.
 
I think you could bolt down a plastic el cheapo tool box and then use a universal battery hold down inside the box to keep the battery in place. You could even make a little tray out of 1" angle and bolt through that through the plastic tool box and into your tool box, then a universal battery hold down to keep the top from moving around.

Dik
 
What about using a simple RV battery box that they carry at nearly all parts stores and Wally World and others? It is a black plastic battery box, but you would still need something to hold the battery into the box. A universal hold down could easily be added, or you could bolt your tray into the bottom of the box. These boxes have a channel that allows the cable to come out through the top of the box, and then go down to proceed up the frame.

As for cable, running that distance, you will need at least 4 ga cable that can be had at any auto parts store. I would say run 0 gauge, just because of the distance involved. Another thing to consider is that you will need a ground cable to run to the engine, as well as a strap from the engine to the firewall. Not really a bad thing, but just a warning. Do not count on the starter to ground out through the frame, it needs to be grounded directly to the battery. Failure to do so could result in fire and injury.
 
What about using a simple RV battery box that they carry at nearly all parts stores and Wally World and others? It is a black plastic battery box, but you would still need something to hold the battery into the box. A universal hold down could easily be added, or you could bolt your tray into the bottom of the box. These boxes have a channel that allows the cable to come out through the top of the box, and then go down to proceed up the frame.

Much like the "marine" battery boxes at wally world in the battery section? I wonder if you could use a universal base and hold down kit in one of those:thinking:.

Dik
 
Use that $19 hold down and put a milk crate over it. Cheap, easy.


Want to really go nuts? Cut the crate up and glue it back together for a custom fit.
 
I bought a box to use. Kinda like this from Lowes.
61uziuvEPuL._AA280_.gif


Next question....
Is it a stupid idea to use a good quality set of jumper cables as the new battery leads.
With regular battery ends crimped/soldered on...


Can you tell I am still stuck on being a cheap ass??:haha:
 
Never mind that. I was just looking at the jumper cables.

I would rather just buy regular cable.
And I think I am going to return the valve box to Lowes and get a plastic truck toolbox. It was bigger than what I wanted, but would easily support dual batteries.
Until then the other half could hold tow straps or the jumper cables.
 
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