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BB 2019 last minute thrash

@r3dd0g I don't know if you have already checked this, but I had a '97 S10 Blazer years ago that did pretty much the same thing. We finally tracked it to the ignition switch, swapping it out fixed it. Apparently the terminal in the switch was worn.
But I also don't have a clue what you have for the ignition switch and system.
 
I had the exact same problem with my ignition switch, I replaced it just before KoH with a brand new AC Delco unit so it's unlikely that's the problem. I was thinking that was the cause of my crank sensor issues, but the continued to fail at KoH too so who knows.
 
Also with my ignition switch all the dash lights went out, they didn't light up.
 
r3dd0g said:
Also with my ignition switch all the dash lights went out, they didn't light up.
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Apparently they fail in different ways as far as the lights. My experience was the power dropped below ECM "fire" voltage just for half a second or so, and then back on to pre- crank status.

I hope that you find the problem in that cool truck.
 
6872xtc said:
Apparently they fail in different ways as far as the lights. My experience was the power dropped below ECM "fire" voltage just for half a second or so, and then back on to pre- crank status.

I hope that you find the problem in that cool truck.
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Yes his AC works

Oh and I’m telling @mrk5 on you. All that AC chatter and yours doesn’t even work...
 
Bent77 said:
Yes his AC works

Oh and I’m telling @mrk5 on you. All that AC chatter and yours doesn’t even work...
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Not worried about it at the moment. I could put a quick charge in it without replacing the leaking Schrader valve, but I gots other stuff to do yet.
 
Good news for us! Our to do list got much smaller, now that "LS swap the S-10" got removed from it.
Friday I picked up a new battery to replace the one that died out of neglect since February and pulled the S-10 into the shop (one thing off the list).
Saturday morning we started looking for the cause of the engine cutout. About 5 minutes in I grabbed the wiring harness coming out of the ECU and shook it and sparks went flying! The main 0 gauge welding wire I'm using to connect the rear mount battery to the bus bar up front had worn a hole in the sheathing on the under fender... We started the truck up and tested again to make sure this was actually the cause of the stalling and not just "another" problem and sure enough it killed the engine.
Short.jpg

That will be an easy fix and now I can move on to addressing other issues (including that other wire that's about to break...).
Now my list is as follows:
-Fix the short and other wiring
-Replace crank position sensor pigtail. When we went to KoH the S-10 wouldn't even start (bad CPS) and we realised that the pigtail we had put on there was worn out from all the times we've replaced the CPS, we had to have a zip tie holding it on the whole time we were there.
-Replace the ram. As soon as we loaded the S-10 onto the trailer the ram blew out a seal and dumped all the fluid out all over the trailer. I plan on upgrading to a bigger ram too since the current one doesn't have enough oomph and is putting too much load on the pump.
-Replace the power steering pump. We killed this at KoH and picked up another one at a discount straight from PSC. We'll also be upgrading the plumbing going from the reservoir to the pump.

Once the wiring and power steering are sorted we may take the time to do some body/bumper modifications to get better approach/departure angles since I tend to get hung up on the bumpers frequently. Then we need to take it on a good shakedown run and it's ready.
 
My list is

New front driveshaft (no more square, clanky clanky, shaft):woot:
shorten rear driveshaft
cut and turn rear axle
modify traction bar
finish doubler crossmember
build new shifters

oh yeah, and I twisted my back a few days ago and can hardly move. Doing what I can without being under truck for now. I should be done in 2 weeks as long as my back calms down.
 
I started working on the S-10 last night, I've go the old ram and pump out, new ram is not quite the same... I went from the old Howe ram I bought from Wade (2.25"x8") to a new 2.5x8" Howe. The guy I talked to said it should bolt in, however the old ones used a smaller 1.125" shaft and -6 fittings and the new ones use a 1.25" shaft and -8 fittings so now i have to figure that out. Also the shaft itself is about 1/2" shorter, but I should have that much adjustment in my tie rods. I will need to order new clevis ends though as they old ones are tapered to fit the smaller shaft.

I do think I'll have time to completely re-do the ugly front snow plow bumper and maybe chop a foot off the back end as well. That should help it out in the rocks.
 
The engine was still running poorly tonight after a new CPS was installed, after much cussing and troubleshooting it looks like the fuel pump is bad. We'll swap that out tomorrow and cross our fingers that it's good to go.
 
r3dd0g said:
The engine was still running poorly tonight after a new CPS was installed, after much cussing and troubleshooting it looks like the fuel pump is bad. We'll swap that out tomorrow and cross our fingers that it's good to go.
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Just went through a fuel pump issue on my son's '02 S10. Just low enough on fuel pressure at idle to run crappy and sometimes stall out with really high ambient heat. It was idling at 50psi, spec is 55-62psi. Saw it go as low as 48psi at part throttle cruise. New pump cured the issue.
 
Mine was fine at idle, only a problem under load. When I broke the high pressure line to put in my fuel pressure regulator, the pump wouldn't even prime. I had to start it on ether, then the pump finally got going. The highest I saw was 40psi, was sitting at 30 at idle, but when you'd mash the pedal (not even driving) it would drop down to sub 20.

To add to this, it would be fine when cold, it was only after the pump heated up that it started having problems. I have probably 1/3 tank of fuel.
 
Odd it still ran below 30. Good find. Glad you got it. Looking forward to see this truck in action.
 
In my experience, fuel pressure isn't as important as you might think. The injectors work fine until pressure gets way low, even more so with a throttle body setup (not that I have that).
 
First burnout in the new garage!

IMG_20190807_185837352.jpg


New fuel pump didn't fix the problem (although it was better). I started looking around and the frame flex/bent bed had pinched off the fuel lines. I moved the lines around a bit and now it runs great again!

My fuel pressure gauge is still showing low (42psi at WOT), but it runs great. I'm not sure if there's something wrong with my fuel pressure gauge or my fuel pressure regulator, but it's good enough to take it out for a test run this weekend.
 
As long as it runs good, maybe that's the new "normal" pressure.
 
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