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BB2018 carnage thread

He also had a leaky hub seal on the 14 bolt and topped off the power steering with 1.5 pints. :whistle:

The bolt was loose would not tighten cuz the threads were stripped well flat cuz the bolt was loose. Zip tied the shock in the hotel parking lot to get the truck to Oreilly's to get some washers, just replaced the bolt for $7.99. The factory built them with single sheer for all you single sheer haters.

The smoking axle was not a leaking seal, it was my dum self leaving the parking break on.
Yes the power steering was leaking a bit but not sure that qualifies as carnage.
 
The bolt was loose would not tighten cuz the threads were stripped well flat cuz the bolt was loose. Zip tied the shock in the hotel parking lot to get the truck to Oreilly's to get some washers, just replaced the bolt for $7.99. The factory built them with single sheer for all you single sheer haters.

The smoking axle was not a leaking seal, it was my dum self leaving the parking break on.
Yes the power steering was leaking a bit but not sure that qualifies as carnage.
Yes factory was single shear and it always breaks. Lol. Haha, I drove a few hundred yards on metal masher Saturday with my parking brake on too! DOH!
 
Only real issue I had was wifey's Jeep boiled the radiator on Vail Pass coming home.

Luckily for me, I happened to overhear @Stephen telling a story about how he "fixed" a relay once by popping the plastic cap off of the top and strategically jamming a piece of paper in it to hold the contacts closed.

I know how relays work, but it had never occurred to me that it would be possible to mechanically close the circuit.

It was one of those "duh" moments in life where you are kinda mad that you didn't put 2 and 2 together on your own...


Anyhow, I got the Jeep cooled off, and then took the top off of the fan relay and jammed the circuit closed, and made it the rest of the way to Denver problem free...

Thank you @Stephen for getting me out of two pickles this weekend, even though you were only there for one.
 
For the record, the relay wasn't at fault here, the fan worked and so did the relay, I just was trying to force it constant on, instead of having it cycle as intended, which wasn't often enough...
 
The bolt was loose would not tighten cuz the threads were stripped well flat cuz the bolt was loose. Zip tied the shock in the hotel parking lot to get the truck to Oreilly's to get some washers, just replaced the bolt for $7.99. The factory built them with single sheer for all you single sheer haters.

The smoking axle was not a leaking seal, it was my dum self leaving the parking break on.
Yes the power steering was leaking a bit but not sure that qualifies as carnage.
Well I did that too for a couple of hundred feet except mine is a driveline brake so smoke was coming from under the truck, :doah:
 
I know, most of my tires have tread left but the carcass gets bad and once the first one blows I just buy a whole set of new ones, anymore I don't typically go any farther than Moab and that's three hours from home so I kind of let them go a bit. If I was about the head across country I would deal with it much differently.

I have what are apparently super rare 15" 8 lug wheels, the crappy part of this entire thing is someone stole my spare tire and wheel, (I borrowed a 16" spare for this trip) A new wheel is really hard to come by and the only place I have found one as of right now wants nearly $150 shipped for a steel wheel. I found 16" 8 Lug trailer wheels for $37/ea. this am. I can damn near buy 5 wheels for the cost of 1 new one. I can fit 235/80 or 85 16 tires on the trailer barely and have a normal heavy duty wheel tire package that actually matches the real axle capacity of my trailer 6K axles but tires limit it to 10K. The 16" tires are at least $100 more total than the just buying 15" tires again, my trailer ride height be higher by about 2", which is a big deal since I don't use ramps to load and unload and I don't have issues with the 15" tires at all when they are in the typical service life.
I think I may have a wheel that you need. I’ll check when I get home. If I do it’s yours free + shipping.
 
Best mod I’ve done. Truck gate and softop.
Since mine is a first gen, no tailgate issue to deal with but I don’t think I will ever put my hardtop back on my Blazer. If for no other reason it just rides and drives better with the soft topper.
 
Well I got brand new carnage on Tuesday, 2 days after B.B. I guess my recently purchased enclosed trailer wasn’t intended for 3,000 miles at 80 mph (because Cummins). The dang skin about ripped off the side. Sitting at an RV repair shop off I-40 just north of Fort Smith Arkansa waiting on them to open so I can hopefully get some screws to make the repair and then finish off the last 540 miles today. Yes that is my new Warn cap from the raffle in the reflection.

D2994A32-0610-4EFA-959C-5C7D22E26776.jpeg
 
It appears I got away fairly unscathed. I had the power steering pump pulley try to clearance the frame a bit, and I cracked a rim, but its still holding air.

Both could be bigger problems, but for now it's still drivable.

20180910_202426.jpg 20180910_202127.jpg
 
Only real issue I had was wifey's Jeep boiled the radiator on Vail Pass coming home.

Luckily for me, I happened to overhear @Stephen telling a story about how he "fixed" a relay once by popping the plastic cap off of the top and strategically jamming a piece of paper in it to hold the contacts closed.

I know how relays work, but it had never occurred to me that it would be possible to mechanically close the circuit.

It was one of those "duh" moments in life where you are kinda mad that you didn't put 2 and 2 together on your own...


Anyhow, I got the Jeep cooled off, and then took the top off of the fan relay and jammed the circuit closed, and made it the rest of the way to Denver problem free...

Thank you @Stephen for getting me out of two pickles this weekend, even though you were only there for one.

That is awesome! Happy to help, especially when it's just telling stories with beers around a "campfire"!
 
It appears I got away fairly unscathed. I had the power steering pump pulley try to clearance the frame a bit, and I cracked a rim, but its still holding air.

Both could be bigger problems, but for now it's still drivable.

View attachment 277108 View attachment 277109
Was the pulley that close before or did a motor or transfercase mount let loose?
 
I'll update my "carnage" thread.

-First, the windshield washer started working again so we can cross that off.
-Second is an issue I've been fighting since my big overland trip. The S-10 just burns out crank position sensors like crazy. I've replaced all of the wiring from the PCM all the way to the sensor and it still kills them. I burnt out 4 or 5 during this trip alone, the last one burnt out on the trail run Sunday (wouldn't rev past 4K RPM).
-Passenger rear wheel seal is leaking
-205 is popping the front out in high or low range?? I'll have to tear it down to figure that one out.
-Power to my race radio died during the trail run on Saturday. It also seems to affect power going to my amps, but I honestly can't remember how I wired that up or why they would be related (Amps wired through the back of the cab to the battery, race radio is mounted to the dash).

Not bad for ~750 miles of trails and driving around Moab. Not to mention I didn't really look at anything since we went to KOH (other than replacing a bent driveshaft).

I've never wheeled so much in my entire life. We were supposed to run Rusty Nail to Golden Crack and back on Sunday, but I hurt too much to do it, so we opted for the easier Steel Bender trail.
 
Was the pulley that close before or did a motor or transfercase mount let loose?
I think the pulley has always been that close, but it's never hit the frame before. I'm not sure if something is loose, or if I just got more twisty than I have in the past. Something I'll have to look into.
 

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