BENDER stays in hibernation with me

[K85 Octane]

Oh yeah, sold my hardtop and tail gate

and big thanks to kellyjohn for the harness deal

 

[kellyjohn]

Glad to be able to contribute to your Rig!

Great to see those belts in place...
Cool install ideas too.

 

[K85 Octane]

thanks KJ
I foresee the fronts being a PITA to work out. A bar across the back of the front seats....is a bar across the rear passenger's knees.

 

[K85 Octane]

Pulled the front wheel bearings apart and found chocolate Then found gouges and rust on the races.

 

[andyblack]

Happens to the best of us. I've found that I have to repack mine about once a year or so, or I'll end up with siezed bearings and galled spindles and stuff like that. Especially if I've been through a good amount of mud. It's annoying, but it is what it is I suppose.

 

[kellyjohn]

PITA. is a good way to describe it.

thanks KJ
I foresee the fronts being a PITA to work out. A bar across the back of the front seats....is a bar across the rear passenger's knees.

That's why I still have the factory belts.
I'll figure something out, some time down the road for the 4 points in all 4 seats.

Of course I will be checking to see how you do it 1st....

As far as the "chocolate in your bearings" haha.....That my friend is a sign of wheeling, parking, and repeating.

I deal with it x 2 trucks.

Only way around it is frequent (couple times a year for me) disassembly, inspection replacing of any questionable seals, repacking and reassembly.

 

[andyblack]

I guess that's why they invented the unit bearings that are on most new 4x4s now.

 

[K85 Octane]

Any tricks to cleaning the bearings and hubs out? I'm thinking a bucket of gas for the bearings, swish it around and hopefully get the grease out. (granted, the bucket of gas is always my go-to) For the hubs, I normally do a bunch of paper towels.

 

[andyblack]

I used to use gas to clean parts back in the 90s when it was cheaper than solvent. Now it's too expensive!

I normally just wipe off as much of the old grease as I can with some of those blue paper shop towels and then use something like carb cleaner to clean the bearings out really good. Packing them good with marine grade grease (vs. normal wheel bearing grease) seems to help the bearings last longer if you're going to be going through mud and water. That's what my dad always recommends but I never listen to him.

 

[kellyjohn]

I'll 2nd that andyblack!

I used to use gas to clean parts back in the 90s when it was cheaper than solvent. Now it's too expensive!

I normally just wipe off as much of the old grease as I can with some of those blue paper shop towels and then use something like carb cleaner to clean the bearings out really good. Packing them good with marine grade grease (vs. normal wheel bearing grease) seems to help the bearings last longer if you're going to be going through mud and water. That's what my dad always recommends but I never listen to him.

Only difference is, I use brake cleaner instead, at $2.79/can it beats the carb cleaner at $5.99

 

[andyblack]

Hmmm... well at $2.79 a 16 oz. can, maybe a gallon of $3.65 gas would still be cheaper to use. Well at least the brake cleaner won't burn your hands and make your eyes burn as bad. Maybe. Plus you can spray the bearings with the brake cleaner too. So I say use brake parts cleaner spray.

 

[K85 Octane]

Sounds good. I'm going to take the setup over to a wholesale house where I'm sure I can get good bearings. The place can also remove the old races and install new ones (something it don't mind paying a little for) I've used them before.

Just gotta find time to run over there.

 

[82355]

You know that you just use a hammer and punch to remove (and can use to install) races, right? Not worth paying someone to do.

Martin

 

[kellyjohn]

Agreed!

You know that you just use a hammer and punch to remove (and can use to install) races, right? Not worth paying someone to do.

Martin

There are locations in the casting itself that provide access to the opposite side of the race with a punch to make removing the bearings easy.
I cut an old race as a buffer when I install the new ones with a hammer.
Then there is no chance of damaging the new part.

With the cut in it it will slip back out easily once the new one is "home".

Just an idea.

 

[82355]

Spend the money you were going to pay someone to do the work for you, and buy a set of these instead:

http://www.sears.com/mayhew-4-pc-bearing-race-punch-set/p-00910321000P

Martin

 

[kellyjohn]

Nice!!

That is a good idea!

 

[K85 Octane]

I never really liked putting them in. The lip is small and I'm all paranoid the screwdriver will slip or I won't get it seated all the way. I've done it before but sometimes I'm super lazy or scared about the dumbest things

 

[andyblack]

I always just use a punch that's the same or slightly smaller diameter of the lip of the race and tap it lightly in a circular pattern all the way around and it seems to go in pretty easy as long as the seat for the race is smooth and not rusty or anything. When you put the hub back on, it will probably finish seating it if it's not quite all the way in.

Hey don't forget to repack your spindle bearings if you're going to take them off too.

 

[82355]

I never really liked putting them in. The lip is small and I'm all paranoid the screwdriver will slip or I won't get it seated all the way. I've done it before but sometimes I'm super lazy or scared about the dumbest things

You shouldn't be using a screwdriver. Buy a set of those oval bearing race driver punches, and don't look back.

Martin

 

[K85 Octane]

Sounds good, seem to acquire tool at an alarming rate anyway.

I knew I had crap in the bearings and I wanted to check the spindle nylon bushings too. I also put some more grease in my u-joints.