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BENDER stays in hibernation with me

Okay, edit that. I looked back and saw where you said that the bolt was going to hold the two halves together while you welded them up. Still, those two pieces need to be able to move. Even if you never have a crash, just normal flexing could be enough to break your sector shaft or cause the steering box to crack the frame unless there is some free play in that shaft. Just my opinion though. I'm no expert by any means.
 
Nice build bud, love all the stuff your doing. Keep up the good work. Your making good progress.
 
Thanks fellas
The steering shaft will only have a couple set screws holding the slack together. The large bolt is only there to keep the nut and hole aligned during welding. Then the set screw will go through the nut and against the inside shaft.

I'm curious about the need to have flex in the shaft. You mentioned it might be a good thing to have it compress and expend while wheeling. Well the screws might not let it do that, they will hold it enough to keep the slack out, but maybe too much to flex.

What's ur opinion that? What's more important...flex or no slop?
 
I can't tell that mine has any slop to speak of. You can go to the Chrysler dealer and buy a rebuild kit that has the bushings in it to eliminate any side-to-side movement (even though it costs as much as the shaft probably cost you). On mine, I just seperated the two halves and put some grease on the inside piece so I could adjust the shaft to the right length when I installed it.
 
Yeh the shaft needs to have in and out play at least some due to flex body roll etc. and if you crash needs to be a ble to collaspe.
 
Yup, like the build. looking forward to seeing what it looks like when you get it back on the road. This is interesting stuff for newbies like me.
 
small update

1) painted my draglink, diff cover, shackles etc etc this pretty cool dark gray. It is textured though, like sandpaper, so not sure how long it will last. I did put down a real nice primer, 2 coats. I'm thinking about doing this color for the rest of the truck.

2) finished my gauges and panels off with some nice black oxide allen screws and stainless washers/nuts. It's wired and waiting for the rest of the truck to get wired.

3) I'm going to remove a couple of leafs from my 56" burb packs. I'm taking the overload off first. That leaves 6. If I take one out, which one. If I take another out, which do you recommend?

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and I've got a quick question

how the hell do you remove the blinker lever? I've got the column apart and I'm trying to fix everything but can't get the damn thing off lol. feel like an idiot, like I'm missing something simple
 
o and I got a woody the other day looking at my engine :)
my uncles been working on it. He had a 400sb block, vortec heads, edelbrock intake, and some goodies laying around his shop. I finally saw some progress the other day when I stopped in. The short block is done. He was in the process of machining the heads. I believe we agreed on a nice 9:1 cr. Other than that and oking parts and funds, I haven't a clue about the motor lol. I don't know enough to buy and build an engine from scratch, so I'm leaving it to him.
:):):):):):):):):):)
 
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I like the instrument cover. Looks nice. :bow:

It's been about four years since I took my blinker lever off to replace my column, but it seems like there was a little roll pin holding it on (?) I can't remember now.
 
Pull off steering wheel unscrew the screw that holds it in.

I wouldn't pull any leaf's out till you get them in and see how they fit. I have a complete set from a one ton van in the front of my burb and they sit almost flat.
 
True. Most pics I've seen on this site of front 52" conversions have all the leaves still in them, including the overload leaf.
 
sorry, this is for my rear. ditching the 52s for 56s and a flip. Also running 0-rates all around

I don't see a screw on the mechanism that holds the lever. I have everything off except the two pins. I'm pulling those out tonight and continuing the tear down.
 
If your talking about the turn switch lever that has the cruise and wipers on it, it just pulls straight out of the turn signal mechanism.
 
Okay, I thought you meant you already had 52s in front and were swapping to 56s. Now I see. Don't know the answer as to which leaf to remove though. I think you may end up taking a leaf or two out because the ride may be harsh. Hopefully not though.

Take the little pin out and I think the lever will come on out then.
 
got some little stuff done
pulled some more wires and looked over the EZ Wiring kit again. I'm so hesitant to start on the wiring. I still need to pull the rear tail light wires out, but lazy lol. I'm stalling, only have Sundays off, laundry and catch-up sleep kick my ass.
also got my cherokee shaft in bolted up, easy
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can anyone tell me what the white box looking thing, is with the connector pins, at the bottom of the steering column is???

And anyone know a good way to mount my new fuse panel? EZ Wiring panel doesn't go back in the stock location. I need to come up with something
 
Got some updates, pretty happy to finally be making good headwind.

1) Pulled my steering column apart to fix the sloppy tilt. Found out two bolts were stripped pretty bad. So I ordered 2 new bolts and while I was taking things apart... 2 bearings, signal switch, horn thing, blinker lever, and steering wheel as well. What a PITA, for my first time. But I was tired from work and it was dark most of the project. Took me a few nights, learned much. Everything went together semi smoothly, but haven't tried it out yet.

2) Cut another aluminum panel to cover the hole left by the old fuse box. Grabbed some AL rivets and SS hardware. Mounted it up.

3) Mounted the new fuse panel in using some crazy posts I made out of PVC pipe. The posts the box has aren't very long and looked to kink the wire too much if mounted with them. I cut some PVC pipe, slipped it over the posts real nice like. This extended the mounts and made me feel better. Mounted with some SS hardware too.

I pulled wires through the old grommet just below the box. This includes headlight and tail light stuff, compressor, horn, blinkers, etc. One the other side of the firewall is another grommet. This one used to have all the stuff from the computer coming through, plus stuff for the starter, alternator, blower, etc. I'm running all the new wire for these thing through this hole. I'm trying to reuse all visible holes so there's not questions about "changing" anything. Some holes will be covered.

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