CK5
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BENDER stays in hibernation with me
- Thread starter K85 Octane
- Start date
So I started finding some things I didn't like. Some wires that had constant voltage when it shouldn't. My electric fuel pump wire (which activates my battery isolator) has 2.6v constant. With the key on, it gets 12.2.
Why? Is this just something I did or is that normal?
My damn highbeam indicator LED was always on, but brighter when the highbeams were on. So I think I'm getting some backfeed voltage through the ground bus bar. It may also be way it's wired, I don't like it, but didn't see any reason why the indicator should be on.
My 2nd Volt gauge isn't reading anything, but it's got 12v going to my relay. So I need to check the relay
and make sure it's "keyed on wire" is working. I'm trying to get the 2nd Volt gauge to only work with Key on, for obvious reasons. I'm just tapped into my gauge power for the relay, and the gauges are working, so 
what happened.
Anyway, here is my update for today, if you can call it an update
All that dash work for nothing. It was fun, but I got tired of dealing with it. Going a different direction. Someday it will run.
At least now I can use the front hoop I got from Vee.
Why? Is this just something I did or is that normal?
My damn highbeam indicator LED was always on, but brighter when the highbeams were on. So I think I'm getting some backfeed voltage through the ground bus bar. It may also be way it's wired, I don't like it, but didn't see any reason why the indicator should be on.
My 2nd Volt gauge isn't reading anything, but it's got 12v going to my relay. So I need to check the relay
and make sure it's "keyed on wire" is working. I'm trying to get the 2nd Volt gauge to only work with Key on, for obvious reasons. I'm just tapped into my gauge power for the relay, and the gauges are working, so what happened.Anyway, here is my update for today, if you can call it an update
All that dash work for nothing. It was fun, but I got tired of dealing with it. Going a different direction. Someday it will run. At least now I can use the front hoop I got from Vee.
andyblack
Registered Loser
Sounds like a bad ground. Could be a bad crimp on a wire somewhere. Good luck finding it. Maybe you could unhook one wire at a time from your ground bar and see if the voltages do right.
I'm pretty sure that's what's happening with the highbeam indicator. But the fuel pump wire comes straight off the fuse box, yet it has constant 2.6v keyoff. I'm diving more into that today. Gunna check my 2nd battery volt gauge also, the way it was wired, it should have worked no problem. I blame the relay atm 
andyblack
Registered Loser
I know this sounds weird, but I once had a fuse that was faulty on an Isuzu Trooper I had a few years back. It was causing some weird stuff with my lights and all. When I checked it with an ohm meter, it read in the kilohm range instead of the normal short or open. I replaced it and everything worked right. Might be worth checking. I still think you have a bad ground somewhere. Maybe it's related to your fuse box.
Well, I just gave Kert a call. Now I need to call my CC and report my card stolen by a lunatic who just happens to also buy offroad parts. OMG why do I hurt myself so....
figured out why my carb secondary butterflys weren't opening, after putting everything back together for the second/ or third time, I put the damn carb gasket on backwards. Can't believe I did that.
question: my engine is grounded to the battery, should it be? Or should it just be grounded to the frame? It doesn't have a frame ground, but my batterys are both grounded to the frame and body.
Also, are the top caps on the steering boxes the same, between 4wd and 2wd? I've got an extra 4wd box I'd like to steal the cap off of and drill it for my 2wd box. Thanks
question: my engine is grounded to the battery, should it be? Or should it just be grounded to the frame? It doesn't have a frame ground, but my batterys are both grounded to the frame and body.
Also, are the top caps on the steering boxes the same, between 4wd and 2wd? I've got an extra 4wd box I'd like to steal the cap off of and drill it for my 2wd box. Thanks
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the wire straight off the EZ Wiring panel that is marked "power windows" is a constant hot. Same as the "power locks", which would be right. That seems funny.
found out my cig lighter fuse was blown, replaced and now it works. Brand new, need to keep an eye on that and see if it happens again.
found out my cig lighter fuse was blown, replaced and now it works. Brand new, need to keep an eye on that and see if it happens again.
katugly
1/2 ton status
It should be grounded to both frame and the battery. Most of the time i just build me some ring terminal, O gauge jumpers to ground the battery to the frame and from the battery to the motor.
k5chvey
Newbie
I'm a little late in the build, but we are all watching. Keep it up!! By the way off what year did you get your steering shaft?
I had 3 at one point. mid to late 80s and one that was IIRC '91
Cherokee, not grand Cherokee
Cherokee, not grand Cherokee
I have a question about my door locks.
When I hit the switch, I hear a tick sound under the "dash area". I think it's the relay, but that's all that happens. The door locks don't do anything. Where did I go wrong? The entire system is untouched (should be) and all I did was run power to the door lock power wire.
When I hit the switch, I hear a tick sound under the "dash area". I think it's the relay, but that's all that happens. The door locks don't do anything. Where did I go wrong? The entire system is untouched (should be) and all I did was run power to the door lock power wire.
bot0611
1/2 ton status
Check the plug on the door lock actuator, mine has moisture on the contacts and kind of like rust i just cleaned then and put the plug back in and worked and while you are at it check the wire if it get the signal from the relay
damn that sucks
already got the door panels on and everything
feels horrible thinking something is finally finished, to just tear into it again
Damn locks were working, but I did have the doors off, so I guess I'll recheck the connections.
already got the door panels on and everything
feels horrible thinking something is finally finished, to just tear into it again
Damn locks were working, but I did have the doors off, so I guess I'll recheck the connections.
rgilmartin
Registered Member
Thought I said this already, but...
Not sure what happened, its like ck5 didnt remember me being here yesterday? it says last on 2-14 @ 10:58 am, but I KNOW I wrote a similar response as this yesterday:
If it's affecting BOTH doors, I would look outside the doors first before tearing into them.
As mentioned maybe you can see if there is voltage after the relay?
Could you run a jumper wire to the battery to test it?
Something to think about, or maybe someone else can chime in...wouldn't lock / unlock be a reverse in polarity, like a window motor...just rambling here, but maybe it'll help get your brain going in the right direction...
Not sure what happened, its like ck5 didnt remember me being here yesterday? it says last on 2-14 @ 10:58 am, but I KNOW I wrote a similar response as this yesterday:
If it's affecting BOTH doors, I would look outside the doors first before tearing into them.
As mentioned maybe you can see if there is voltage after the relay?
Could you run a jumper wire to the battery to test it?
Something to think about, or maybe someone else can chime in...wouldn't lock / unlock be a reverse in polarity, like a window motor...just rambling here, but maybe it'll help get your brain going in the right direction...
yeah, something funky happened. I remember reading your post but couldn't seem to get on later in the day to reply. Thanks btw. That is true, if both aren't working, prolly not a connector. Those seemed fine when I put the doors back together, just wasn't sure.
I don't remember taking anything out from under the dash, but I from the dilemma it seems like the problem area.
I don't remember taking anything out from under the dash, but I from the dilemma it seems like the problem area.
andyblack
Registered Loser
Try tapping the relay with a screwdriver while someone holds the switch. You may just try pulling the relay out and reseating it. I like the idea of jumping the switch straight to the battery. I had and old Cadillac that wouldn't let the driver's side window go up. Seems like it had a little coil or something for each window. Anyway, I think I just wired the switch straight up to the fuse box or something because I couldn't find the right coil or solenoid or whatever it was and was too broke at the time to buy one anyway. Seems like it worked just fine like that. You've got all your windows not wanting to work though. Hmmm.... remember from before about loose grounds...
. I always look around in the areas I've been working at when something coincidentally goes wrong like this.
. I always look around in the areas I've been working at when something coincidentally goes wrong like this.
Well I cleaned the contacts and tapped on the relay. Got nothing. So I'm curious which wires I should tie together or just put on a new relay. The orange is my constant hot. I think the black and blue wires go up to the door switch. I don't know what the other wires are for, they don't affect the windows that's for sure
rgilmartin
Registered Member
Did you see the post on the server fire! WOW, I'm glad it didn't turn into a structure fire!
OK, so I've never actually taken apart anything to do with the power door locks.
SO, I'm just tugging at straws here, sorry...I don't have a wiring diagram handy either...
#1 my suggestion to 'jumper' the lock to the batt, was just to test and see if what is inside the door is working. If you are going to all the trouble of installing a new wiring harness, you might as well make it work the way it was designed if at all possible.
Whenever I am having trouble with electrical circuits I try to separate 'sections' of the circuit to troubleshoot. IF the door lock is not working
then....
Check the power to the circuit...you said you have a constant hot, and that goes to the door lock, and you are hearing the relay click so YOU HAVE POWER....
Now I would want to check the switch, you said that when you press the switch, you hear the relay click, that would indicate there is POWER to the switch AND to the relay.
- if you hear the relay click I would assume that means that is is functioning properly, but it would be even better to test it:
There should be ?two wires(for each door) that come out of the relay, and go to the door lock actuator(electro-magnet) When you press the switch one way you should get + v and then pushing the switch the other way should give you - volts. Can you test for voltage there? Is there any chance the relay is connected wrong?
OK, so I've never actually taken apart anything to do with the power door locks.
SO, I'm just tugging at straws here, sorry...I don't have a wiring diagram handy either...
#1 my suggestion to 'jumper' the lock to the batt, was just to test and see if what is inside the door is working. If you are going to all the trouble of installing a new wiring harness, you might as well make it work the way it was designed if at all possible.
Whenever I am having trouble with electrical circuits I try to separate 'sections' of the circuit to troubleshoot. IF the door lock is not working
then....
Check the power to the circuit...you said you have a constant hot, and that goes to the door lock, and you are hearing the relay click so YOU HAVE POWER....
Now I would want to check the switch, you said that when you press the switch, you hear the relay click, that would indicate there is POWER to the switch AND to the relay.
- if you hear the relay click I would assume that means that is is functioning properly, but it would be even better to test it:
There should be ?two wires(for each door) that come out of the relay, and go to the door lock actuator(electro-magnet) When you press the switch one way you should get + v and then pushing the switch the other way should give you - volts. Can you test for voltage there? Is there any chance the relay is connected wrong?
