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BENDER stays in hibernation with me

well, tonight its for sure, the distributor isn't going down cause the damn intake manifold is too far to the driver's side. It bolted up sooo easily with no problems. ****, this will be the third time I get to take it off.

this is not enjoyable anymore
 
for anyone else to know

Blue= down button
Black = up botton
Orange = constant 12v
Grey and tan wires go to actuators

I get 12v from both switches. I've jumped power to actuator input wires and got nothing. I've tried multiple thing and got nothing. So I guess it need to check the actuators. I can see them EASY through the top of the door and side vent. They look great and the plugs are on tight. So I don't know what happened.
 
What kind of connectors did you use? Is it possible that you have a bad crimp or solder joint? Maybe you should redo some of them.
 
grrr
It is all stock. I only cut the power wires for the door locks and windows. Then put those on the new fuse panel. Windows work lol. Uggg I know it's very hard to diagnose something like this without looking at it. I appreciate everything. I'll see what I can do before the rain Thursday. It will last through the weekend though :(
 
haven't gotten the door locks fixed yet but I did manage to get progress rolling again

I'm having a shop that I've worked with on numerous occasions, with other vehicles, do some work for me. Right now I'm kinda busy with temporary work and would rather leave some of this stuff up to a professional with a lift. I like the owner, good guy and nice family, so I feel "OK" letting someone else touch my baby.

Anyway, he's going to:
Pull oil pump and check the pressure spring
Clean up my trans cooler lines so they are away from the exhaust I want to run.
Pipe the external trans cooler I mounted into the radiator cooler.
Put in Bowtie Overdrives torque converter lockup kit (since I no longer have a computer)
Add larger volume trans pan with temp sensor bung (haven't bought pan yet)
Install my new locking trans dipstick
Install my new 4 wheel disc brake MC (don't have discs yet, but good time to change leaky MC)
I think that was it lol. Once it's done (maybe Thursday ~5pm) I will have it towed to an exhaust shop here locally. That will more than likely happan Friday morning. If my oil pressure problem is gone, I will drive it to the shop I bought the carb from and have them tune it. It is horribly lean right now. A lot of things have to happen right in the next few days or it goes back to the grass. Either way, I still need to get my dash put in before I can drive it any distance. Which reminds me, I've got some engine bolts that need re-torquing.

So here's a picture. This is about 10ft from where it's been sitting for a year. Felt good just starting it and pulling it forward 10ft. :woot:

12 001.jpg
 
Oil pump pressure plunger was jacked up and did not slide smoothly at all.
So I took the pump back to my uncles where he exchanged it with another one. (Melllings high volume) I checked the plunger before putting it in and boy what a difference. Got all the other stuff done on the list (except the trans pan, I just had him add a sensor bung in my stock pan for now) The TC lockup stuff is in but not wired up. I'll do that later. I'm ready to get some exhaust and carb work done, but no time until Thursday. I will need a whole day to accomplish both since I can't leave the truck at either shop.

After all that, I need to make a bracket to mount my front seats. Also get the bugs worked out of the electrical. (IE: door locks, left blinker, headlights, etc) Installing the dash is probably also recommended. :)
 
Got some nice mandrel bent pieces today from a local headers manufacturer. Got to take a peek at his Bonneville car and model replica in a wind tunnel. Pretty neat.

So I walked away with 3 "U" shaped 2" 16 gauge mandrel bent pieces for 34 bucks. Those are now sitting in my DD along with the cat, collector, and muffler awaiting Thursday's install.

Also looking at new oil pumps. For now I will run what I have, which isn't ideal, but it will be fine for now. Hope Thursday goes smooth so I can look forward to properly breaking in the engine. Just in time for $4 a gallon.....
 
Glad things are looking up for you now. I know this has been a frustrating build so far, but it's good to see that you've stuck with it and are closer to having it ready. I probably would have quit and tried to sell it a long time ago. Plus you have to deal with all that CARB B.S. After this truck is complete, you'll be the MAN!!!:bow:
 
I swear, just when I think I'm on a roll, I get a call from the exhaust guy and he says the heat riser doesn't fit. OMG

Yes I need the riser for smog lol. :( Edelbrock didn't make the headers right or something. They straight told me "Our bad" and figured it was cause my original y pipe and heat riser set up was for manifolds that mount above the spark plugs. (instead of below them) Edelbrock guy figured maybe an older heat riser would do the trick. Nope. Dammmmmmmmm Youuuuuuuuuuuuuuu!!

So I went over an idea with the exhaust guy, using a spacer to put the riser lower in the truck, bending this and that, and just getting it done. Real nice guy, easy to work with. My original exhaust guy didn't even want the job, complaining about something. Freaking exhaust guys are hard to deal with, if it takes more than a couple minutes to do the job, they get all weird. This one is at least working out.

I feel better now, just had an ice cream drumstick. :)
 
UPDATE TIME!!!!!!

Got my exhaust done and external trans cooler. The exhaust came out great, but I need to keep an eye on the heat riser, I think more "tweaking" is in order. I like how it turned out and the quick addition of a used tip finished it off nicely. PICS!!
12006.jpg

12007.jpg

12008.jpg

12009.jpg

12010.jpg

12003.jpg

12004.jpg

12005.jpg
 
2.5" y pipe
3" after collector

I hope to not smack the y pipe on the diff before I can get the lift kit on. :frown1: Though I don't think it's possible being so close to the oil pan.
 
updates :D

I had a friend over on Wednesday to help lift the shell off. He also helped install my rollbar I snagged from member Vee. I ground down the sharp edges on the feet, sanded it all down, and shot it with some flat black rustolium. Came out good. Here is a picture of it and the dome light I used. My truck didn't come with one. This light uses one wire and is grounded through the body. So I added a wire to the bulb socket and walla, nice dome light.
a004.jpg


Here is my getto seat mounting. I will build a nice frame to hold the seats and possibly tie it into the rollcage. Not sure on that. For now though, I decided to try this to get me by. Bolting it down to the plywood and then into the factory holes. This is 1000x stronger (not sh1tting you) than the way it was when I bought the truck. Driver chair had two crappy bolts through the thin floor, passenger had same bolts but three of them. :doah:Eventually I will make some brackets, including a passenger side that tips forward for rear seat entry.
a001.jpg
 
I've also put some miles on the engine, only 20, but it's getting there. Tomorrow I'll be taking it to work, which is 15 miles one way. It will get some freeway breakin time :) I've been trying to get it more road worthy. Upgrading from MILKCRATES to seats and seat belts were one thing, but I also took care of a few other things. I managed to temporarily wire up my running lights and headlights. I found out that my driver side rear blinker wasn't working because of the bulb. I replaced it, but it would blink once and burn out. It had 1156 in it (I think). I had some 3056 (I think) and stuck one in, now it works perfect. (I have a bunch of bulbs, dunno why, but I put something in and it worked lol )
I also wired up the torque converter lockup. Now I can hit the freeway :) Adjusted the TV cable right. I put it on and set it, but it wasn't shifting right. I kept adjusting it and came to a happy place, where the shifts felt good and timing was better. I hope it's right :)
Next on the list: Replace engine oil dipstick with a new one. Current one is not right. Fix oil pan leak. It's dripping a little front the very front. It's a one piece, blue gasket that's new, but I think the shop it was at last didn't put it on right.

With this pan gasket, am I supposed to use gasket sealant? Like the gray stuff?
Tomorrow I'm swinging by Orielly to order a rubber bed mat. Get something in the back to quiet this sucker down. Use the scraps for the footwell.
 
K85 Octane said:
UPDATE TIME!!!!!!








12005.jpg
Click to expand...

I could be wrong but I thought the top line was the feed from the trans and that the fluid was suppossed to go though the factory radiator cooler than to the air cooled one and back to the trans. But I could be wrong on which comes from the trans.
 
the top line coming off the trans is the output
having said that, I haven't chased the lines to see which cooler gets fluid first. I just let the shop decide :)

Also, either way is fine. If you live it hot weather, radiator cooler first. If you live in mostly cold ass weather, radiator cooler last. This way the fluid going back into the trans will have a little heat to it.
 
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