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BENDER stays in hibernation with me

Working 6 days a week now, not much time or energy 4 the Blazer:doah:.

The updates:

Pulled the rear springs, took out an exhaust hanger, and cut the rivets to finish pulling the shackle off the frame. That was last weekend. Today, got the ORD hangers and DIY4x shackles installed. If some A-hole hadn't stolen my 56" leaf springs, the rear would be done. :flipoff9: Still looking for replacements.


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Got some accessories installed on the engine. This stuff is time consuming and tedious. Bolts that aren't correct for my year, smog pump plumbing and valves need modifying, etc. Threw the FAST body on, just to feel like I'm getting closer :doah:Also, I needed to install a carb spacer to help clear the vac port on the manifold. I am now using that for my brake booster.

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I've also had some trouble getting parts for the EFI set up. I can't find any adapter AN fittings for the tank sending unit and factory '90s fuel filter. So I went down to my local junkyard and was lucky enough to find a suburban with it's tank missing. I just cut the lines and bought the two factory fittings @ the fuel pump and the two factory fittings @ the filter. I could not get those fittings anywhere, NAPA or the like. They have longer threaded area than PS lines, so those wouldn't work either. I'll end up having some hoses made up and then start the FAST install with it's supplied hardware. I need to get a bung welded in my Y pipe. The system says I shouldn't use my header bung as it's too close to the head. :dunno:

I also noticed after putting the engine back in, the my motor mounts have settled. WTF!!!! Now my oil pan is ~1/8" away from my high clearance crossmember. The passenger side is the worst affender, damn near moved all the way down inside the shell. I wish I could remember where I bought the POS pair. With only 1000 miles, I've decided to just get some DIY4x Comp mounts. Also bought a bunch of tabs for my 4 point harnesses.

Got the TC bolted to the flexplate, cover, and starter installed. I can't do anything else under there till the motor mounts are fixed. Then Y pipe and all else. The rear springs go on, axle install with 5125 12" shocks, cut fenders, install disc brakes, then put the big tires on.

I've got a co-worker that's hard up for money and has bald tires. I offered him my old tires, which are still very good 15-20k miles left. He'll be taking them in two weeks, so I need the new tires/rims on by then.
 
Finally got the 56s ready for install. They started with 7 leafs and are now down to 5. I kept the others just in case. Threw on some ZeroRates in the 1.5" setup. Put some Energy Suspension bushings in.

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Got a welder on trade from Olanchamedic :D


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To get rid of the sagging motor mounts I got some DIY4x mounts. SOOOOO easy to install VS the factory clams. OMG :doah:


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Here is a picture of the FAST throttle body and 1" spacer. You can also see the vacuum fitting and FAST sensor that are in the back. They both want the same space :doah:I gotta update my FAST install thread with some more questions.

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How hard was it to get the old leaf spring bushing out? I need to replace mine but the old ones look like they wouldn't really want to come out all that easily.
 
Didn't even bother. Atlas Spring is a few miles from me. $20 and they pressed them out for me :)
 
Sorry if I drooled on yer oil-pan....
Thats under-side shot is dead sexay!

And, Kudo's on the EFI install. :D
Rig looks great!
 
I like the oil pan too. They build them for a certain class of racer, dunno which, but it's got extra baffling inside, but retains stock look. Something like that. I really wanted more baffling than the stock "no baffling" oil pan.

Only problem, it's not EXACTLY the same size. My nice Y pipe has needed some "tweaking" to fit past the pan, it fit that tight with the old one. That pic is actually my current desktop. :)
 
To get rid of the sagging motor mounts I got some DIY4x mounts. SOOOOO easy to install VS the factory clams. OMG :doah:


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It looks real good! One thing I notice, you might want to put some convolute on that positive battery cable where travels in the frame next to the engine mount bracket(or anywhere it can rub on metal). If that cable rubs through you might have a small disaster on your hands.
 
I just put some fuel line tubing around it the other day actually, just not in that spot. :doah: I did it up farther, where it rubs the top of the frame bad. Running through the mount isn't too bad, it's in there loose, but I guess that just makes it more likely to bounce and cut.

:waytogo:
 
I got some other stuff done on the FAST install. Still waiting to figure out my hose problem. Only thing left is to wire up the fuel pump, to bad the tank isn't in yet. :doah: Updates for that are here: http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?p=3072135#post3072135

56s installed and the beginning of disc conversion. Just waiting for some new spindle hardware. The hubs and bearings look good, so does the spindles...which is AWESOME. Got the shocks on after some figuring out. Needed some new lower hardware, drilled out the lower bolt hole for new hardware, and ground down the mount because the shock body wouldn't fit.:dunno: They are in now and done though.

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You can see how close the driver side shock is to my U bolt plates. When the suspension drops, it gets super close, even with out flexing it. I'm going to grind off that corner a bit. I'm pissed though, been working a lot lately and was hoping to get some major work done on the blazer......to bad it's going to rain all weekend. :flipoff9:

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Still need to modify the water neck. Damn thing isn't tall enough and the angle is wrong. If I didn't have the big block radiator with different size inlet, I could run a regular hose and current water neck. O well.

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Love this build, keep it up.

Too bad though on the new engine color. Nothing more 'Merican than an Orange small block. Those DIY mounts are 100 times more simple than the factory GM set-up.
 
Those DIY mounts are 100 times more simple than the factory GM set-up.

I was thinking more along the lines of a BILLION times easier to install/remove. :waytogo:

Just wondering if I need a stronger mount for the tranny now. :dunno: Think I read somewhere about replacing all 3 if going away from stock rubber. Dunno, but the tranny mount is almost brand new, so I'll use it till it's got nothin' left. :woot:
 
Your trans can be rubber as long as the trans case is also. You cannot do rubber engine and poly trans or transfer case you will break the trans.
 
motor torque, rubber lets the motor move more vs poly. Engine moves alot trans does not trans breaks. If the trans is moving around and the motor is not it wont hurt either, within reason that is.
 
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