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BENDER stays in hibernation with me

Piss poor update.

Bought someone's spare tire off CL. Interco Trxus M/T 37x12.5x17 with some aluminum rim. Can't find a name, will research numbers on back later.

Brand new, only mounted to spare tire holder. $150 Drove 104 miles round trip to get it, but did it late tonight with no traffic.

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I would say it looks like a Mickey Thompson Classic or an Eagle brand wheel, but there's so many different kinds out there now that it's hard to tell.

Nice score. :waytogo:
 
That also looks exactly like my Procomp "Extreme Alloy" series wheels, which are probably made by the same company, who knows.
 
K85 Octane said:
Talked with my transmission guy today. Asked him about my options with the TC lockup. He said he's tried some variations, wiring them himself and changing things. He said I can do the normal 4th gear lockup and run an override switch on the dash. Told him the hell with that lol, too much to think about ahaha, so he recommend converting it to a non-lockup trans with separate cooler. He said 700's last longer that way anyway, something about large tires and the lockup not running off the computer.
Click to expand...
Sorry, I didn't read your whole thread, but this sounds like a really bad idea. Why spend money and time to make your tranny run hot and get worse mileage? It's really easy to do the 4th gear only lockup. Just leave the stock wiring in and make sure the brake switch works. Even in 3rd gear you need a gauge and need to keep an eye on it.
 
My K10 only has lockup in 4th and when towing in 3rd it will get hotter. If there is a long smooth stretch and I put it in 4th in will drop to normal operating temp pretty fast. Just make it lock up in 4th, hook up the brake switch and adjust the tv so it goes to 3rd when you need the extra power to pass.
 
you figure the advancment in trannys was to add an overdrive. not take them away. how could it be a good idea to go backwards?
 
I'm currently running a 4th gear lockup kit from BTO. My biggest concern is pulling some of our bigger hills with a trailer or boat.

Eventually I will be going to a BTO trans, but would like this trans to last as long as it can.
 
Did this stuff on Sunday. Finished off the rear disc brakes. The brackets from DIY4x are awesome I might add. Finished off the brake plumbing. I'm not going to bleed any of the brakes. I plan on towing it to a shop and have them finish off the axle set ups, 208 SYE, driveshafts, master cylinder, prop valve, etc. The front D60 is still set up with dually hubs. After the FAST kit is done and the engine is running, I will move it back some so I can start on the front end. Still need to finish modifying my Y pipe, then I can re-mount my exhaust. Also need major fender trimming. :D

Pics

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Thanks
Member "Vee" made that front bumper for his truck. He parted out the truck over a year ago IIRC. It was a former GMOTM. The mounts are brutally strong.
 
Would rather have it done quickly, while I'm at work making money.

Brakes need bleeding
Master Cylinder installed
Prop Valve
Line Lock
gears
lockers front and rear
208 SYE

The shop already has my Tom Woods SYE kit and a spare 208 I bought a few weeks back. He's gone through it and replaced what was needed. Changed the input shaft to work with my 700r. He's going to get the speedo gears as close as possible. I'm not sure right now, but I might also have him install the clocking ring at the same time. It will be stuck in 2wd until I can get the linkage modified.

Between the prop valve and linelock needing new hardlines made up, I'm not going to bother finishing the brakes myself. I also don't know how to setup gears. I will down the road, but for now I just want it done.
 
Lower King pin bearing race removal time :)

Before

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After


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Using my ball joint press I bought for my previous axle rebuild. :doah:


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