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BENDER stays in hibernation with me

K85 Octane said:
While having my trans built, I also had my JB Conversion put into the 241 and rebuilt. Since it's all down from the truck, I had the guy clock the case and install it that way. Needed to be spaced down from the frame 1" to drive it home. From there, I finished it up. What's the questions?

Oh crap, I still need to post how I made the support rod work. :D Basically it's just a 1/4" plate of steel and extra bolts. Need picture...
Click to expand...

Did you use a clocking ring by whoever or just move the t-case up one bolt hole?
How did it affect the front d-shaft CV angle?
Did you have to modify the floor to fit?
How 'bout the t-case shift linkage?
Anything else you want to add for info?

I seen the pic of the custom x-member and looks easy enough to make. Any other pics you want to provide, my eyes are open. :waytogo:
 
Yeah let's see some pics of this thing. I wondered about the support rod, shift linkage and speedo cable. Or can you clock the tail cone too? I'd like to see the front driveshaft and know how much longer it is than stock too.

You know we're a curious bunch here.

Edit: I looked at the pic from page 63 and saw that you have a fixed yoke. Also the 241 has a VSS and no cable too. :doah:
 
496truck said:
Did you use a clocking ring by whoever or just move the t-case up one bolt hole?
How did it affect the front d-shaft CV angle?
Did you have to modify the floor to fit?
How 'bout the t-case shift linkage?
Anything else you want to add for info?

I seen the pic of the custom x-member and looks easy enough to make. Any other pics you want to provide, my eyes are open. :waytogo:
Click to expand...

andyblack said:
Yeah let's see some pics of this thing. I wondered about the support rod, shift linkage and speedo cable. Or can you clock the tail cone too? I'd like to see the front driveshaft and know how much longer it is than stock too.

You know we're a curious bunch here.

Edit: I looked at the pic from page 63 and saw that you have a fixed yoke. Also the 241 has a VSS and no cable too. :doah:
Click to expand...

I've had food poisoning for the last 30hr. Comin out of both ends :doah:Just getting over it, which is perfect cause I have court appearance in 4 hours :doah::doah:Feeling great! :rolleyes: On page 62, I've got a picture of the linkage modification. Had to do a couple things not seen, I'll get into that later. The speedometer IS cable driven. Had no issues with that. It's a Lokar unit, cut to length piece, but I didn't have to change that after clocking.

ugg, time for another nap. I'll deal with the questions better later. :waytogo:
 
Yuck. I've had that one time and it was no fun at all. Good thing is, it usually leaves at quick as it arrives.

So you just made that little offset metal piece and kept the linkage that comes from the shifter like it was origianally. I see now. I couldn't tell what I was looking at before.

Did you do a slip yoke eliminatior kit or was that 241 like that stock? I don't know why I was thinking the NP241 had a VSS. My '91 Dodge truck had a VSS and I was thinking that it had a 241 but I can't remember now because that was like 15+ years ago.

As far as those pay-to-park lots go, I've made up my mind that I just don't won't to live/work anywhere like that if I can help it. They don't have any around me, but I get really pissed off when I have to go to Atlanta and pay to park somewhere. What kills me is that you can look just one block off the main streets and the lots there are charging half the price. Just one little street over. Plus the pavement is a lot better in them. Just makes me mad. Oh but they all have an attendant present at all times. :rolleyes:
 
1989 NP241's have a mechanical speedometer, 1990-91 NP241's have an electric speedometer.

Martin
 
I vote tan. Just to fock $hit up:whistle:. But for real, ill get a tan one if i get one.
 
It's where it's at. I've got the York but that's it right now. :(

Are you actually in Azusa? Close, damn.
 
K85 Octane said:
It's where it's at. I've got the York but that's it right now. :(

Are you actually in Azusa? Close, damn.
Click to expand...
i live right by Azusa Pacific University, i had to make a custom bracket for my Cummins motor ,the York will put out 200 PSI if you let it, but at 150 psi i can use a 1/2 impact to remove tires , Nice Blazer ! , ive seen it in Azusa CYN before , i remember the lic. plate
 
nice, I used to go to Citrus. The tool swapmeet there in the APU parking lot is GREAT for tools :D

Throw up a picture of your rig :waytogo:
 
Here is where I try to show how far it's pushed up, so you guys can get an idea of it :haha::doah:

The 241 is clocked in this picture, you can see how far it is from the skid plate. This is the stock crossmember. It is spaced down with the stock collars, so about 1" IIRC. I also have a 1" body lift. Now....I could have run it like this, maybe make a crossmember to hold this position and end up with a close to flat belly.

I decided to cut the floor and suck it up farther. The hole in the floor is a little big, I might have been able to save the seat mount, maybe. I've got the seat back in and mounted securely, later I'll be tying the mounts into the cage. :waytogo: I am reusing the factory trans mount. Best explanation of how high it is now, is the mount. Where it normally sits on the crossmember, that is now level with the bottom of the frame :woot:

C5EC5624-9FAC-4135-BA12-B579952F6944-2373-0000036C917CBFDD_zpse8723dfc.jpg


251F059B-62D4-40B2-9C11-B17A6E90E249-1659-00000378BF85CAAB_zps51b8d205.jpg
 
Ok, let me see if I can put this together.

Here is the shifter linkage. The rod is the stock one. I made it about 1/4 longer when I welded the offset piece in. This helped center the adjustment. It is also not straight, slightly angled to better parallel each lever. On the T-case side, the rod wanted to bind up in the hole. I ground down the lip on the rod and opened up the hole in the lever. This allowed more angle for the rod end. The hole in the lever has a very flimsy grommet, leaving it in place doesn't hurt movement and only helps keep rattles away. :waytogo:

(I took the picture before grinding the lip on the rod and opening up the lever hole. The lip is still there in the pic. I am running a thin washer instead. Shifter works great first time out :waytogo:)

You can also see the clocking ring. It is full clocked. I had a problem with sealing at first but here is the thread on that. Fixed it and no leaks (except the standard one at the tall:doah:)

ABA6BB26-EB91-44D0-A549-47CAA4F01A05-13066-00001BFD1035B1C3_zps8435c46c.jpg





Here is a picture of the support rod. It is mounted in the stock location on the bell. The angle of the flat mounting area is off just a tad. Because the angle of the T-case has changed, the flat part (where it meets the rod) needed a little tweak towards the driver side. Now that it matches the T-case mounting surface, I just used a 1/4" plate to secure the two. Same bolts through T-case and grade 8 through the rod. :waytogo:


A4F05C98-5BB4-4CB6-9778-510B3342932E-2444-000003D11F6FD25D_zpsf07389ff.jpg
 
Quick before and after of my front driveshaft. Pushing the T-case up has pulled the front driveshaft apart some, about 1" or so. The rear was pulled a little as well, but the clocking ring gave me back about 1/2". The rear is perfect except the pinion angle. Because the T-case is up high, the pinion is no longer pointing at the T-case. It's close and I don't have any vibes on the freeway, but I still need to throw a small shim in there at some point. :dunno:

Front shaft before

0044.jpg








After: pulled out about 1", you can kinda see the color difference.

36267790-4CF7-4DD9-85BC-9B8C2B4173A7-2444-000003D126BEFFD3_zps8d4f6f94.jpg



The CV angle on the front is quite steep now. I'm not sure if I'll need to go to a BAMF joint or not. It looks ok at ride height but might bind under full drop. I didn't notice anything when I went offroading last, but that really doesn't make me feel any better lol. I need to flex it out and will be soon. :waytogo: If I need a BAMF joint, I hope I can still use the tube. Going bigger wont work, the tube is very close to the trans pan but not in any danger ATM. If I have any binding, I'll try clearancing some of the joint to get more angle from it. My local driveline shop gave me some pointers but I might just let him go in and mill the case. The shaft is currently a TW 1350 unit, so it has a lot more working angle than the stock one.

7A49A44D-4137-4826-A8E1-ACD0712549F6-13066-00001BFD0B4354F3_zpsd3bd89ca.jpg
 
Well I'm pretty impressed with all this work. I've wondered before why didn't they make the t-case more like this to start with? I mean why are they sticking down so low in stock form? Looks like you've still got plenty of front shaft left. I don't think I would worry about that unless you swap to 52s or something. I couldn't tell what angle the rear pinion was pointed at, but it looks to me like it should be good. After swapping transmissions on my truck, I noticed that the rear pinion was actually pointing straight at the t-case output, where as before it was anlged down slightly. I think I can feel some slight vibrations at certain speeds now that I couldn't feel before, but it's no big deal. I could actually swap the longer rear shackles I have on there now back to the stock length ones (I have the shackle flip of course) and I think that would put the pinion angle back closer to stock. I don't know if you have longer shackles or not. Seems like it would be easier to vary shackle length slightly than install some shims.
 
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