CK5
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BENDER stays in hibernation with me

And since doing the shock hoops, with proper uptravel, I've found myself getting into the firewall/wheel well more and more. I'll trim what I can and hope its enough, otherwise I'll have to put bumpstops on the BB15 list. (along with OBA and front cage to bumper)


If anyone is curious about tire rub. 1" body lift, 4" lift, 1" Zero rate, axle moved 1.5" forward. 38" tires that measure closer to 37. I love the look of my cut fenders but I didn't have to get as aggressive with the bottom, near the door. I did have one time while wheeling that my driver tire was so stuffed and turned driver, that I couldn't turn the wheel. I had to back up some before it freed up. I'll need an RTI ramp of sorts to check that out. For now, out comes the grinder again. :D







 
looks like a BFH would cure most of the tire clearance problems to me:dunno:
 
Pardon me for being lazy and not researching, but what ram are you using for your assist?
 
I think the grinding wheel will be used to trim some of the bent stuff. I'll just trim as it bends cause I'd rather not continue cutting away at whats there.

The hydrolic stuff is all PSC, except it's a stock rebuilt box with tapped caps
 
Aint F***ing around now! Ready for current and future needs :D






also trying to get out on Sunday, hopefully with some others and hitting the same nastiness that pulled my last driveshaft apart.
 
Where did you find that shaft?

My local driveshaft shop had it. Took the old short one off (which was actually really low miles and probably going to be up for sale later) Shortened the tube and added the longer slip. Also had the CV joints replaced (still greaseable since they give me sliiiiiiightly more angle) but changed the yoke side to a non-greaseable.

Taking it out Sunday, can't wait to test it out :D
 
My local driveshaft shop had it. Took the old short one off (which was actually really low miles and probably going to be up for sale later) Shortened the tube and added the longer slip. Also had the CV joints replaced (still greaseable since they give me sliiiiiiightly more angle) but changed the yoke side to a non-greaseable.

Taking it out Sunday, can't wait to test it out :D

I'm jealous. Those things are hard to find unless you pay to have a complete shaft ordered and then they're bank. All I need is the spline and the female end
 
Well...

2 new greaseable neapco joints
1 new non-greaseable neapco joint
Slip / spline
shortening the tube and balancing assembly
= $405

I'm sure he has more of those slips. Not sure how much "bank" is too much "bank". lol If it's that hard to find one, I can prolly ship one to you.

Gotta get video from friend. Worked the truck pretty damn hard yesterday, lots of underside scars, pinstripes, and new wheel well clearancing. I need to get my bump stops in. I've been holding off on that but yesterday was tough, trying to steer with the wheel stuff into the fender (and maybe the draglink into the frame) made it impossible at times.


 
Well when I got the quote from had it was over a G by a fair margin. So that would what I consider a fair price
 
Just called the shop. $165 for the slip and depending on tube size it may need a collar machined for it. Mine did but I'm running a larger tube. The expensive part is normally the CV cause it's patented or something lol

Do you have a local shop that can make it up? How about TW shafts?
 
Just called the shop. $165 for the slip and depending on tube size it may need a collar machined for it. Mine did but I'm running a larger tube. The expensive part is normally the CV cause it's patented or something lol

Do you have a local shop that can make it up? How about TW shafts?

I'll figure it out when I get to that point. Technically I still need to buy my truck back first lol.

I'm just making plans cuz I'm not a fan of the square shaft I made.
 
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