I can't even burn them off doing burnouts lol
CK5
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BENDER stays in hibernation with me
- Thread starter K85 Octane
- Start date
While the 40s are cool and all, I’m second guessing my choice to move up from 37s. I can find 37s on CList quite often, keeps expenses down.
These suckers are going to need a lot more cutting and I’m hoping I don’t loose any up travel.
These suckers are going to need a lot more cutting and I’m hoping I don’t loose any up travel.
I jumped on this set cause they have TONS of tread left and were only $550.
Hay Brent, you haven’t posted in some time. Just checking in. Post up when ya can. Rob. Later
Almost 7 years to the day and she’s got her doors back on.
Hoping to get a level concrete pad poured for her soon so big drivetrain changes can happen
First thing needed. A nice drive to In&Out to refresh MY battery
Hoping to get a level concrete pad poured for her soon so big drivetrain changes can happen
First thing needed. A nice drive to In&Out to refresh MY battery
So I’m getting antsy.
I want to work on this so bad but don’t have the time or concrete slab poured for it. I am limited to what I can do in the driveway because it’s sloped a lot. (Tough to tell by pictures, creeper is tough to use)
No, this isn't where I say it’s for sale
I would like to start collecting parts for a 6.2/6L80 swap. Even if it ends up with a 6.0, parts should be the same I think. What can I get started on now?
I have an ORD crossmember, that should help pan clearance. The engine will be out of a truck, will that pan be ok? In my ‘68 I had to use a different pan for the 5.3.
I’ve got DIY4x engine mounts coming, or at least the other half since I’ve got his comp mounts already.
I imagine I’ll need manifolds. I used some Trailblazer SS manifolds on the ‘68 that worked out nicely. I could do that again if they fit the 6.2. They have to be shorties because my exhaust runs around the front of the oil pan. Headers that go straight down would make this even better on the passenger side, though I’m not sure about the drivers side yet.
I have a VSS 241 but with a 27 spline. I am looking for a 32 spline input. I have an EFI blazer tank and TPI Camaro pump already. I run it at 43psi, here’s hoping it will do the 58 (IIRC) that’s needed. I need a digital dash, something like Autometer or FAST has.....but cheaper. OMG I’m not paying $2k+. Just need something that translates OBD info to a screen.
Once I have a concrete slab the 400sb/700r4/all FAST EFI stuff comes out and up for sale. That means the front end will be off, I can address my first wiring job’s shortcomings, rework wheel well openings, etc etc.
I’m excited to start but I’m not doing all that work AGAIN on dirt. Did that the first time and in a hurry. I’ve got a backyard, secure working area, knowledge, and more patience this time around.
I want to work on this so bad but don’t have the time or concrete slab poured for it. I am limited to what I can do in the driveway because it’s sloped a lot. (Tough to tell by pictures, creeper is tough to use)
No, this isn't where I say it’s for sale
I would like to start collecting parts for a 6.2/6L80 swap. Even if it ends up with a 6.0, parts should be the same I think. What can I get started on now?
I have an ORD crossmember, that should help pan clearance. The engine will be out of a truck, will that pan be ok? In my ‘68 I had to use a different pan for the 5.3.
I’ve got DIY4x engine mounts coming, or at least the other half since I’ve got his comp mounts already.
I imagine I’ll need manifolds. I used some Trailblazer SS manifolds on the ‘68 that worked out nicely. I could do that again if they fit the 6.2. They have to be shorties because my exhaust runs around the front of the oil pan. Headers that go straight down would make this even better on the passenger side, though I’m not sure about the drivers side yet.
I have a VSS 241 but with a 27 spline. I am looking for a 32 spline input. I have an EFI blazer tank and TPI Camaro pump already. I run it at 43psi, here’s hoping it will do the 58 (IIRC) that’s needed. I need a digital dash, something like Autometer or FAST has.....but cheaper. OMG I’m not paying $2k+. Just need something that translates OBD info to a screen.
Once I have a concrete slab the 400sb/700r4/all FAST EFI stuff comes out and up for sale. That means the front end will be off, I can address my first wiring job’s shortcomings, rework wheel well openings, etc etc.
I’m excited to start but I’m not doing all that work AGAIN on dirt. Did that the first time and in a hurry. I’ve got a backyard, secure working area, knowledge, and more patience this time around.
I have 32 spline inputs. $50.00 plus shipping.
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Also, trying to keep the swap simple. I can find 4wd combos all day long around here. Keep the engine/trans/computer all from one truck= no headache later
Pre-2015 seems easier
Thanks Capt. Do Venmo or Zelle?
Pre-2015 seems easier
Thanks Capt. Do Venmo or Zelle?
No FB
Haven’t tried setting up a BS account yet for marketplace.
Haven’t tried setting up a BS account yet for marketplace.
PM on the way.
Something like this AutoMeter unit. Runs $850. Any other good options around that price or lower? Looks like it only shows 4 sensors plus MPH/RPM. I can't find literature saying I can customize that. I'd rather have trans temp instead of volts. I can add a gauge for volts, maybe even the 2 I have already.
It also doesn't mention reading OBD2 output, which helps a lot. Added feature, it simplifies the rat's nest of wires in the back needed for all those senders.
Cool to see this thing still going. Why upgrade the engine? To drive it more?
Martin
Martin
Short answer: yes
Long answer: The 400/700r has done the job I’ve given it fairly well but it’s only because I haven’t given it anything difficult. It doesn’t tow anything or go on loooong drives. It doesn’t run hot during a day of wheeling, even with some of the hotter Moab temperatures.
She runs hot when pulling a grade and by pulling I mean sluggishly making its way up a grade in the slow lane. That’s without a trailer or AC. I’m just not interested in messing with the engine more. It has other quirks I don’t like but have lived with because it’s “fine”.
The 700r has been a trooper. The local shop that built it did a great job. Never so much as a hiccup from it. That being said, it’s only towed a SeaDoo once and an empty Uhaul car trailer. I don’t ask much other than rolling 40s and taking a beating offroad.
Going with a 6.2/6L80 frees up reservations I’ve had about using the truck more. I want lower gearing but I’m already at 4:88. The smaller a pinion gets, the weaker. A 6L80 gives me a lower 1st gear and still maintaining a highway gear. It’s also much stronger than the 700r so I shouldn't be hesitant about towing or “hot dogging” the truck around.
The LS platform is a lighter engine,
will stay cool much easier than an iron Siamese 400,
should perform better in stock form,
should stink less at idle,
and should return “better” fuel economy for those longer trips allowing maybe a smaller fuel cell out back. (Tucked up better than my OE 31gal)
Bender isn’t numbers machining, sure ain’t for purists, and tends to be a tool of fun more than a show truck. Throwing a new drivetrain in just sounds like the next step in its evolution. (And sounds like fun) Might even manage to fit AC back on it.
Long answer: The 400/700r has done the job I’ve given it fairly well but it’s only because I haven’t given it anything difficult. It doesn’t tow anything or go on loooong drives. It doesn’t run hot during a day of wheeling, even with some of the hotter Moab temperatures.
She runs hot when pulling a grade and by pulling I mean sluggishly making its way up a grade in the slow lane. That’s without a trailer or AC. I’m just not interested in messing with the engine more. It has other quirks I don’t like but have lived with because it’s “fine”.
The 700r has been a trooper. The local shop that built it did a great job. Never so much as a hiccup from it. That being said, it’s only towed a SeaDoo once and an empty Uhaul car trailer. I don’t ask much other than rolling 40s and taking a beating offroad.
Going with a 6.2/6L80 frees up reservations I’ve had about using the truck more. I want lower gearing but I’m already at 4:88. The smaller a pinion gets, the weaker. A 6L80 gives me a lower 1st gear and still maintaining a highway gear. It’s also much stronger than the 700r so I shouldn't be hesitant about towing or “hot dogging” the truck around.
The LS platform is a lighter engine,
will stay cool much easier than an iron Siamese 400,
should perform better in stock form,
should stink less at idle,
and should return “better” fuel economy for those longer trips allowing maybe a smaller fuel cell out back. (Tucked up better than my OE 31gal)
Bender isn’t numbers machining, sure ain’t for purists, and tends to be a tool of fun more than a show truck. Throwing a new drivetrain in just sounds like the next step in its evolution. (And sounds like fun) Might even manage to fit AC back on it.
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LS upper mounts and a blank dash insert for the DIY4x dash. Thanks Kert
I can’t work on the truck right now but I can sure as heck start ordering parts. Need some swap headers.
I can’t work on the truck right now but I can sure as heck start ordering parts. Need some swap headers.
I'm all for the AC.
Martin
Martin
So I’ve started looking at old high mileage , pre-2015 trucks for sale. The 6.2 AWD 6L80 flavor, so Denali and Escalades basically. Pull what I need from it and sell off the rest dirt cheap so it goes quickly. Getting a whole truck is almost same price as a plucked out drivetrain. Here is an example. $5,500 asking with 243,000 miles. Right drivetrain combo. Says it drives nice but if I read it right there’s a check engine light and exhaust leak.
Here’s the weird part. Looking at other things the seller has, he has an oil pan, exhaust manifolds, and PS pump with bracket for a 2007 Yukon. Hmmm why?
I’m looking to pick up an engine stand and hoist soon. Just gotta get over this covid first so I can go out.
Here’s the weird part. Looking at other things the seller has, he has an oil pan, exhaust manifolds, and PS pump with bracket for a 2007 Yukon. Hmmm why?
I’m looking to pick up an engine stand and hoist soon. Just gotta get over this covid first so I can go out.
You are still in San Bernadino County, right? How are you getting around smog? Only reason I am asking is because I'm in NorCal and the Jimmy is a 77 and I still have to pass a visual and sniff test. PITA and good for about 30 points on my blood pressure during the test. I built the 400 with so called 50 state smog legal parts but there are a few things that would be nice to have but wouldn't be smog legal. Nice quality headers would be really nice.
No disrespect man, but that gauge cluster is boring as hell. I bought SW analog gauges for my dash, but there has to be a combo cluster out there. LCD screen, something. I'll do some digging. I have neck surgery in 3 weeks and I am going to need something to do or I will end up going snakesh*t crazy.
Something like this AutoMeter unit. Runs $850. Any other good options around that price or lower? Looks like it only shows 4 sensors plus MPH/RPM. I can't find literature saying I can customize that. I'd rather have trans temp instead of volts. I can add a gauge for volts, maybe even the 2 I have already.
It also doesn't mention reading OBD2 output, which helps a lot. Added feature, it simplifies the rat's nest of wires in the back needed for all those senders.
