CK5
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BENDER stays in hibernation with me
- Thread starter K85 Octane
- Start date
Getting a whole truck will help with all the smog stuff. The EVAP sensors and placement on the original vehicle is the road map.
Also, I would love to get a smashed truck but they are also expensive. I was bidding on a 2014 that had every panel destroyed, suspension corner gone and all airbags out. Still went for over $5-$6,000. I gave up bidding on CoPart after that.
Also, I would love to get a smashed truck but they are also expensive. I was bidding on a 2014 that had every panel destroyed, suspension corner gone and all airbags out. Still went for over $5-$6,000. I gave up bidding on CoPart after that.
So I’ve made the decision to remove the inner fenders up front. Not sure how this is going to go, I’ve always been a fan of keeping the dirt out but the 40s need space to live. Since I pushed the axle forward a little more than before I think the focus should be the fang area. I’ve cut some of the core support out, minimal area where the nuts were. (PS, wish I could give these wheel wells to someone, zero rust even under the battery, but I cut them long ago)
I also plan to radius the wheel opening up front a little, huge fan of the squared front the way it is now but just not enough room. I plan to meet the end of the bumper to make for a clean line. Hope I don’t hate it later. Losing the marker light sucks too
I also plan to radius the wheel opening up front a little, huge fan of the squared front the way it is now but just not enough room. I plan to meet the end of the bumper to make for a clean line. Hope I don’t hate it later. Losing the marker light sucks too
Move the marker lights up?
Martin
Martin
I guess this is my Moab punch list. 
Modifying the battery trays since the liners are gone. Gotta clean up the wiring mess. Wish I had time to gut the whole thing and start over.
Gotta figure out why the winch died. Need to look at rear fenders also. With the axle moved back PLUS 40s it looks like the trailing side will get eaten by the tire. Hoping to smooth that area out and checking it after flexing. Good thing is the front edge will no longer get munched.
Check over PVC, driveline bolts, suspension bolts, clean up the rotors and sand the pads, and figure out what is killing my batteries. (Probably some idiot washed the inside out with a hose months back and hurt something)
Modifying the battery trays since the liners are gone. Gotta clean up the wiring mess. Wish I had time to gut the whole thing and start over.
Gotta figure out why the winch died. Need to look at rear fenders also. With the axle moved back PLUS 40s it looks like the trailing side will get eaten by the tire. Hoping to smooth that area out and checking it after flexing. Good thing is the front edge will no longer get munched.
Check over PVC, driveline bolts, suspension bolts, clean up the rotors and sand the pads, and figure out what is killing my batteries. (Probably some idiot washed the inside out with a hose months back and hurt something)
I might find some round ones to pop into the fender when I’m done. Just not the same look.
You really think you need to lose your marker lights?
On your winch, sometimes the brushes get corroded on the armature from moisture and sitting. Try smacking the motor housing with a beater while trying to run it.
On your winch, sometimes the brushes get corroded on the armature from moisture and sitting. Try smacking the motor housing with a beater while trying to run it.
I will try that but here’s the scenario. I pulled a couple small trees out in the backyard couple years back. Drove around to the front yard to pull another and it was dead. First time several years ago it stopped working was the remote. There’s no remote anymore, maybe the switch I use in the dash now? Dunno, have to wait till I get the batteries back in.
I will take a closer look at the light area. Unless I just keep the outer skin and cut everything behind it, maybe the lights can stay. Looking at that tire and how much poke there is…it looks hungry for sheet metal.
I will take a closer look at the light area. Unless I just keep the outer skin and cut everything behind it, maybe the lights can stay. Looking at that tire and how much poke there is…it looks hungry for sheet metal.
I think your lights will be fine. However you might need to trim the lower radiator support and the inner fender webbing.
What kind of solenoids are you running on your winch? Bite the bullet and run an Albright inside the engine compartment.I guess this is my Moab punch list.
Modifying the battery trays since the liners are gone. Gotta clean up the wiring mess. Wish I had time to gut the whole thing and start over.
Gotta figure out why the winch died. Need to look at rear fenders also. With the axle moved back PLUS 40s it looks like the trailing side will get eaten by the tire. Hoping to smooth that area out and checking it after flexing. Good thing is the front edge will no longer get munched.
Check over PVC, driveline bolts, suspension bolts, clean up the rotors and sand the pads, and figure out what is killing my batteries. (Probably some idiot washed the inside out with a hose months back and hurt something)
If need be, I would just move the marker lights around a bit. Just so you could still represent square bodies...
Go vertical like the older ones?
I’ll have to look up the Albright thing, dunno what that is. Stock relays in the Warn. Just bypassed them and it works. Just need to actually check the relays. After that, I guess it’s the switch on the dash.
I’ve seen War solenoid packs for the M12-15k lbs winches sold for like $280. Was thinking of running that since it’s newer and better sealed. Mine is only seals from sneezes.
I’ll have to look up the Albright thing, dunno what that is. Stock relays in the Warn. Just bypassed them and it works. Just need to actually check the relays. After that, I guess it’s the switch on the dash.
I’ve seen War solenoid packs for the M12-15k lbs winches sold for like $280. Was thinking of running that since it’s newer and better sealed. Mine is only seals from sneezes.
So I’ve checked the motor and it works when using the posts on the side. I’ve tried dielectric grease for the connection and got nothing. Wish I had a know good remote, dunno why my dash switch would be dead but there’s a chance. First time this thing stopped working it was the Warn remote.
Almost nothing has gotten done on the truck for BB prep I’ve got an EZup canopy at the front of the truck, just gotta get the motivation to work on it.
I’ve got an EZup canopy at the front of the truck, just gotta get the motivation to work on it.
You could try putting 12V to each solenoid coil just to confirm they click. I've had a couple of failures over the years. One was just a bad ground, so nothing would click. That can be fast and free to fix. Another was bad contacts that would only pass current once in a while. I replaced just that one solenoid and it's been fine since.
Naturally, you burn up the contacts for pulling first, as feeding out doesn't take much current. A quick hack is to rearrange the solenoids so it will still pull (and feed it out by hand). This is a PITA when you get tension but need to reverse, but if you know which one is bad you can jumper past it momentarily as you know.
Naturally, you burn up the contacts for pulling first, as feeding out doesn't take much current. A quick hack is to rearrange the solenoids so it will still pull (and feed it out by hand). This is a PITA when you get tension but need to reverse, but if you know which one is bad you can jumper past it momentarily as you know.
Not sure why the 12v “click check” didn’t work last time but I got them all to click this time. Went into the cab and checked my switch again. Pulled it out of the dash and seemed to work, so something is funky. Went ahead to bought a wireless remote from Warn. Might be nice 
Also got the rest of the cuts done. “Weight reduction” in full swing. Get the batteries back in and fix the wiring mess from 10 years ago. Then clean out interior and systems check. Get it running, bolt check, drive it as much as possible before BB.
Also got the rest of the cuts done. “Weight reduction” in full swing. Get the batteries back in and fix the wiring mess from 10 years ago. Then clean out interior and systems check. Get it running, bolt check, drive it as much as possible before BB.
Did you use a light saber to make those cuts?
Martin
Martin
Orange ratchet strap holding my EZ Up to the earth AKA light saber
Got the winch working and upgraded to a warn wireless remote. Hope it continues to work, got no backup for BB. Also decided to give synthetic a try. Cleaned up, put some electrical tape on the drum for insulation, and also FINALLY clocked the side so I can get to the lever easier. (Only took what… 8 years?) got some soft shackles too.
Got the batteries and wires finalized. Since the wheel wells are gone the battery trays need some bracing and the wires needed work. I gotta rip the whole front off this truck and redo some things, lots of the wiring too. (First wire job for me, time to go back through)
Got it running but I have 2 leaks.
(1) electrical draw somewhere, started several months ago after I washed the interior out.
(2) fuel, massive leak. I Mickey Moused some fuel line to bypass a rotted line, so I could put the truck in the backyard. Maybe I forgot the level of Mickey going on or the line has rotted more? Dunno
(2b) it’s been leaking from the filler hose for a while, going to try and replace that.
Got the winch working and upgraded to a warn wireless remote. Hope it continues to work, got no backup for BB. Also decided to give synthetic a try. Cleaned up, put some electrical tape on the drum for insulation, and also FINALLY clocked the side so I can get to the lever easier. (Only took what… 8 years?) got some soft shackles too.
Got the batteries and wires finalized. Since the wheel wells are gone the battery trays need some bracing and the wires needed work. I gotta rip the whole front off this truck and redo some things, lots of the wiring too. (First wire job for me, time to go back through)
Got it running but I have 2 leaks.
(1) electrical draw somewhere, started several months ago after I washed the interior out.
(2) fuel, massive leak. I Mickey Moused some fuel line to bypass a rotted line, so I could put the truck in the backyard. Maybe I forgot the level of Mickey going on or the line has rotted more? Dunno
(2b) it’s been leaking from the filler hose for a while, going to try and replace that.
Wondering what kind of inverter I’ll need to run this in the Blazer. Will it work off a 10-15amp cigarette lighter? Thanks
Maybe?
BESTEK 300W Power Inverter DC 12V to 110V AC Car Inverter with 4.2A Dual USB Car Adapter https://a.co/d/f5AV6ui
Maybe?
BESTEK 300W Power Inverter DC 12V to 110V AC Car Inverter with 4.2A Dual USB Car Adapter https://a.co/d/f5AV6ui
Should I run this for the Bash? The other 3 look better. All sidewalls look great. Man, I feel like Toyo has a compound problem, this isn’t the first
