CK5
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Big block guys

Oh yea, I have one, but it's one of those cheap chrome ones. Plan on getting a different one when I get a balancer.

That brings up a question, what size balancer should I get?
 
I think mine is a 7", Its about an inch smaller than my pulley.
 
Have you looked into beehive valve springs? They allow you to run a little less spring pressure (lighter retainers) and control the harmonics better, making more hp and torque up top. I've seen a few dino tests where the power increase was impressive, for such a simple change.
 
The 2 different springs are the ones that compcams suggests for my cam. Does anyone have any suggestions other than those? Or out of those 2, which should I run?
 
I know, those are the reasons I don't know which ones to go with.

Have you mocked up what your spring height is gonna be yet or have had it done by the machine shop? To see if there's gonna need any shimming, that'll help determine what pressure you'll need.
 
I haven't touched the heads yet. Both of those springs say the heads have to machined for them to fit. I wanted to get everything for the heads before bringing them to the machine shop, so I can just drop everything off at the same time.

How do I mock up for spring height? Guess I can try to find some YouTube videos.
 
I just pulled out the cam card and it says that the 924-16 springs are required. I guess I'll go with those and give the machine shop a copy of the cam card and let them figure it all out.
 
If I went with a beehive spring, would I have to run a lighter spring during break in?

According to comp, I need to remove the inner spring on the 924 or 930 during break in. Then re-install the inner spring after break in.
 
Lighter springs are always recommended. Personally I have never used them myself, but I'm stupid and apparently pretty lucky. In the last 5 years I've done 4 cam swaps with flat tappets and no issues.

Again I'd talk to comp cams and see what they recommend. They may tell you to run the stock springs for break in, as long as they can handle the lift.
 
Lighter springs are always recommended. Personally I have never used them myself, but I'm stupid and apparently pretty lucky. In the last 5 years I've done 4 cam swaps with flat tappets and no issues.

Again I'd talk to comp cams and see what they recommend. They may tell you to run the stock springs for break in, as long as they can handle the lift.

Until the valves float......
 
Just an update on this thing. The heads are at the machine shop. When I talked to the guys over there they said the best thing to do would be to just do a basic valve job and then set them up with the new springs and seals. They said if I were to do anything else like put big valves in them, I may as well just get aluminum heads b/c they'd end up only being a little more in price.

Another thing, this won't be going in the blazer anymore... I just picked up a 67 chevelle and it'll find its way into that. The down side to the chevelle is that it's a 4 door, but I like the 4 doors, so no big deal to me.
 
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