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Big problem, need help <--working on it ;)

From where the two halves of the case go together. I've heard that it's really hard to stop all leaks from the 208 but this is substantial. I'm going to slowly open the plug on the top of the case (used for filling) and if it starts to leak I'll know that the seal is leaking and letting the atf from the tranny into the case, if it doesn't then I guess that I'll just fill it up to the top of that plug and keep an eye on it until I know what to do.

-Avery
 
dont replace your rear main if its not leaking...No point. It can be a pain and if you dont know what your doing, the new one WILL leak. Dont reuse the oil, get new stuff. You can get away with using the filter though. also 2 piece sealsare easier to replace that 1. 1 piece seal you have to pull the motor or trans to do, 2 piece can be done from the pan.
 
79k20350 said:
dont replace your rear main if its not leaking...No point. It can be a pain and if you dont know what your doing, the new one WILL leak. Dont reuse the oil, get new stuff. You can get away with using the filter though. also 2 piece sealsare easier to replace that 1. 1 piece seal you have to pull the motor or trans to do, 2 piece can be done from the pan.
Click to expand...

That's some handy information to have. Like I said, for now I'm not going to worry about the rear main, I'll just concentrate on what I know is leaking.
Well guys I'm headed out to start draining the oil and then move on with dropping the pan.

-Avery
 
4X4HIGH said:
1 piece rear mains started in 1986 NOT 1985.

No time span for adding oil, just make sure that no dirt gets whipped up into the engine.
Click to expand...

Learn something new everyday, i thought it was 85 but i'll take your word for it.
 
Ok guys I've been working all morning and am pretty dissapointed that I've only gotten a few things done. I drained all the oil into a clean bucket and then went to town on the bolts, that's pretty much where I'm stuck. I got all the side bolts off and then I got started on the ones in the corners. Man did GM screw up on this, there is literally no room to get a socket over the driver's side front corner and the others are pretty snug too.
I eventually got them off (2+ hrs. so far) and I started to drop the pan, simple enough nothing bolting it on anymore so just slide it down off the corner posts, yeah right!
There is some bracket supporting the front of the tranny (two rods) that I have to take off because it won't clear them, it'll only drop down about 1/2" before it hits the passenger side bolt holding that tranny support on.
Man this thing is a PITA.

I smelled home made cookies coming from the kitchen so I came in and ate one before I blew a gasket! ;)

-Avery
 
GM won this round, I just called it quits for today. I'm getting ready to go to visit with some family in a while and I can't take anymore of this. I was successful in dropping the front half of the pan and nothing is blocking it the rest of the way but the back is still stuck. The lip of the pan is stuck underneath a cover on the front of the Tranny it looks like.
I tried to remove what I think is a cover but the bolts are so tight that I can't get them to budge (possibly due the the fact that I've been laying on my back for 5 hours straining to get everything else off.)

Anyways I just thought that you all would like an update, I'll let you know what I figure out.

-Avery
 
Well guys I pretty much finished everything up this afternoon. Man was this a bigger project than I had originally thought. Anyways I did have to remove the torque converter cover to make anymore progress. I finally broke the bolts loose and from there on out it was pretty smooth.

I attached some pictures so you can see what things looked like (as if you all have never seen it :rolleyes:) but I figured as long as I'm under there I might as well snap some shots.

I replaced the gasket (and yes, the dip stick end was in the bottom of the pan!) and then I bolted everything back together (trying not to go too tight but snug enough to make a good seal) and I think that it all went pretty smoothly.

One problem that I do have though is that I can't get the dipstick tube back into the hole, I can feel the hole with my finger but I can't get the tube to go back in. I'm planning on ordering a new tube and stick (obviously, the stick is in multiple pieces now :eek1:) and then I'll install it again. I moved the truck to get it out of the driveway and put it back in the street but since the tube wasn't in it splashed over and started leaking a little. My heart sank when I saw a few good sized drops hit the ground when I got out but I dove under the truck with a flashlight in hand and luckily as I said it just splashed over. I didn't see anything coming from around the pan/gasket/block area. We'll see, hopefully it will all be okay.

1. What was in the bottom of my pan, these three things and some sludge
2. The pan after I cleaned out the sludge build-up
3. The gasket that was in there was a one piece but it was cracked and not installed properly
4. Underneath showing the oil pump and torque converter
5. rods, bottom of pistons, etc.

-Avery

picture 003.jpg

picture 006.jpg

picture 007.jpg

picture 008.jpg

picture 011.jpg
 
Looks like someone dropped the wire into the engine at one point.

For the dipstick tube, it will be a tight squeeze to get it back in. There should be a small ridge on the tube where it will bottom out when fully inserted. If it keeps giving you trouble, find an open end wrench that fits snugly around the tube, but doesn't go past the ridge. Use light taps with a hammer to help the tube into the block.

You did get the old tube out, right?

Everything looks good underneath. The oil pump pickup screen appears clean. Those torque rods from the trans are a pain. They make the job a lot harder than on the older trucks without them.

Good job!
 
Yeah I did get the old tube out, that's what I was going to put in for a temp. until I get a new tube and stick. I'll try to pop it in using the wrench and hammer. I found the hole and it sat in it but wouldn't push in but I didn't want to force it.
I cleaned out the small sludge build-up that I saw on the screen so yeah, it's good to go.

Is it just me or is that last picture just cool, not anything special about it but it's a neat shot of everything. I guess I'm wierd though.

-Avery
 
Good news and bad news...

The good news is that I did clean up the old tube and was finally able to get it to drop down into the block.

The bad news is that I took the truck out for a test drive and she was blowing oil everywhere when I got home. I crawled back under (which seems to be my new favorite spot) and saw that somewhere in the line I forgot to install a bolt on the drivers side of the pan and a nut worked loose on the rear, driver's side post. They didn't show themselves the first time I started it up because it built pressure and blew out of the dipstick tube, now that I have that sealing very tightly the two spots made themselves apparent. I'll go the the hardware store and pick up a new bolt to put in and tighten that nut down.
Which brings me to my next question....how tight? I set the drill to the lightest torque setting to ensure that they would all be evenly bolted in but it might not have been enough.

Thanks!

-Avery
 
Oil pan bolts only need to be tightened by hand but about 8 ft. lbs is about close to spec. Most torque wrenches don't go down that low so an inch pound wrench would be needed if you are a fanatic about using a torque wrnech in this area. 96 in. lbs = 8 ft. lbs.
 
Thanks, I didn't realize that it built enough pressure to leak out of the side of the pan where the bolt wasn't in. Guess I learn something new every day around here and in the driveway. ;)

-Avery
 
One bolt being loose or even missing should not allow the pan to leak. You might have the gasket not sitting correctly maybe?
 
hmm good point. I'll check it out since I'm basically out of school now I've finally got some spare time on my hands to get some stuff done.

-Avery
 
Avery4jc said:
That's a bummer, that means that I have a two piece which means that I have a lot of work ahead of me.
Click to expand...

Correction: 2 piece seals are easy to replace. The 1 piece however requires you to pull the motor or trans out. Not fun.

Oh, and pulling the oil pan and putting a new gasket on is NOT as easy as it looks. Some of the oil pan bolts are almost impossible to get out and back in. Good luck!
-Harrison
 
Oops, I just saw that youve already done it. Anyways, your leak could come from over-tightening the oil pan. If you tighten it too much, it will crush the gasket and cause it to leak. It needs to be snug but not overly tight.
-Harrison
 
I spoke with a few guys and I don't think that I tightened them enough. Also even though the instructions say not to use RTV everyone at the shop I work at said to use black RTV on the front and rear.
I'll give it a shot.....again :doah:

-Avery
 
RTV shouldn't be used on that type of gasket. The 1 piece pan gasket is rubber and RTV can make it slip out easily especailly on the front and rear.
 
4X4HIGH said:
RTV shouldn't be used on that type of gasket. The 1 piece pan gasket is rubber and RTV can make it slip out easily especailly on the front and rear.
Click to expand...

That's what I thought and that's what the instructions said but a few of them said that they used black rtv on their felpro one piece gaskets for their oil pans.
I think what I'm going to do is pull everything off, clean it all up and start over. This time torquing the bolts to the correct specs and ensuring that the gasket is well seated before I put it on.

Oh, I looked through my box that it came in and there were two rubber seals (both circular about 4 and 6 inches in diameter) none of the instructions ever said anything about them, what are they for?

-Avery
 
Those are probably for the oil cooler adapter if yours has one. Are these O-rings or actual rubber lip seals? If they are O-rings that iswhat they are for sure. Usually the outside of the box will give the contents of the box so check and see if it says anything about the oil cooler adapter seals.
 
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