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Bilstein 7100

Or get the 4 inch springs for better driveline angles and 1 inch body pucks and leave yourself the left over inch to play with fine adjustments...

Maybe 1 inch ZR in back, 1/4 inch ZR in front
 
I’ve been throwing around the idea of a 6 Inch tuff county EZ ride for the front. I wish they made a 5 inch flavor so I could put a zero rate and move the axle forward.[/QUOTE]

You don't need a zero rate to move your axle forward. Just drill 2 new holes in your axle for the spring pin. Simple and free.
 
Justin V said:
Or get the 4 inch springs for better driveline angles and 1 inch body pucks and leave yourself the left over inch to play with fine adjustments...

Maybe 1 inch ZR in back, 1/4 inch ZR in front
Click to expand...

Can i clear 37s with a 4 inch lift? I know there's you going to be trimming involved but how much is the question lol
 
HankScorpio said:
I’ve been throwing around the idea of a 6 Inch tuff county EZ ride for the front. I wish they made a 5 inch flavor so I could put a zero rate and move the axle forward.
Click to expand...

You don't need a zero rate to move your axle forward. Just drill 2 new holes in your axle for the spring pin. Simple and free.[/QUOTE]

I though read somewhere that it's not good to drill a new hole into the springs because they could crack or other things could go wrong. Is that true?
 
MetalMulishaMarcus said:
Can i clear 37s with a 4 inch lift? I know there's you going to be trimming involved but how much is the question lol
Click to expand...
How much cutting you are willing to do depends on how much you like your wheel openings...

Some folks don't mind chopping... myself and @Kay86K5 are two good examples...

Either way, 4" vs 6", a 37 will rub if you stuff it hard enough, especially with the steering wheel turned.
 
MetalMulishaMarcus said:
Sweet. That makes me happy because the more I read about 7100..people can't find the parts to rebuild them.
Click to expand...
Because those people are not resourceful.. I just ordered and had one of our sponsored dudes pickup some pretty obscure parts “nobody has” (lol ya right) but bilstein had it and it was 24hrs and he had parts in hand.
 
Justin V said:
How much cutting you are willing to do depends on how much you like your wheel openings...

Some folks don't mind chopping... myself and @Kay86K5 are two good examples...

Either way, 4" vs 6", a 37 will rub if you stuff it hard enough, especially with the steering wheel turned.
Click to expand...
I know 37s will rub, just didn't wanna cut to much off.
 
sreidmx said:
Because those people are not resourceful.. I just ordered and had one of our sponsored dudes pickup some pretty obscure parts “nobody has” (lol ya right) but bilstein had it and it was 24hrs and he had parts in hand.
Click to expand...

Good to know, sounds like you're the man I'll be going to for all my parts needs.
 
MetalMulishaMarcus said:
You don't need a zero rate to move your axle forward. Just drill 2 new holes in your axle for the spring pin. Simple and free.
Click to expand...

I though read somewhere that it's not good to drill a new hole into the springs because they could crack or other things could go wrong. Is that true?[/QUOTE]

True, don’t drill your spring.

He’s saying drill a new hole in the perch on the axle.
 
I ran my set up for exactly what I'm doing.

* 4" spring to run a flatter and smoother spring
* 1" BL to get more fender opening and have room to clock my transfercase
* 1" ZR to get more fender opening and move the axles opposite directions, also to help move front axle away from firewall, and I only have to trim back side of rear fenders to clear the 37s

to clear 40s, well I will see about that soon :D
 
LNielson said:
I though read somewhere that it's not good to drill a new hole into the springs because they could crack or other things could go wrong. Is that true?
Click to expand...

True, don’t drill your spring.

He’s saying drill a new hole in the perch on the axle.[/QUOTE]

Ohhhhh lol I'm an idiot hahahaha
 
K85 Octane said:
I ran my set up for exactly what I'm doing.

* 4" spring to run a flatter and smoother spring
* 1" BL to get more fender opening and have room to clock my transfercase
* 1" ZR to get more fender opening and move the axles opposite directions, also to help move front axle away from firewall, and I only have to trim back side of rear fenders to clear the 37s

to clear 40s, well I will see about that soon :D
Click to expand...

I may try that, I won't be going with anything bigger then 37s....but I'm sure we all say that at one point in time hahahaha

I'm actually kinda doing my suspension based off you're build, I absolutely love you're truck.
 
Yes, don't drill the spring. I was able to get 1 3/8 forward on a d44 perch I think. It was at least 1 1/4. I think a d60 has a slightly larger pad but cant remember exactly.
 
HankScorpio said:
Yes, don't drill the spring. I was able to get 1 3/8 forward on a d44 perch I think. It was at least 1 1/4. I think a d60 has a slightly larger pad but cant remember exactly.
Click to expand...

I don't know if I wanna take the plunge into drilling my D60. One of the pads is cast into the housing and I don't wanna mess that up.
 
MetalMulishaMarcus said:
I don't know if I wanna take the plunge into drilling my D60. One of the pads is cast into the housing and I don't wanna mess that up.
Click to expand...

Its cast steel, drills quite well. Either way getting the axle forward a bit makes a huge difference in clearing a big tire.
 
Here is my K5 project. This has a 12" bilstein 7112 on the front, 4" springs, axles moved 1 1/4" front and back. Lots of trimming and it will flex out with a 36x14.50 without hitting. The trailer is 3ft tall.
blazer front.jpg
blazer side.jpg
front tire.jpg
 
I have heard the don't drill your spring. When building Horton we messed up a bit. I redrilled my springs. They went s shaped well before anything else.

It's likely a good thing not to drill several inches away but mine is 2" or so. Still under the spring plate and just barely on the perch.

That said drilling em SUCKS so don't do that.

BTW I'm on my 3rd set of front springs and none have been cracked. Just wavy, you know multi arched
 
I am impressed you were able to drill through them at all. Must have been a good bit, probably not anymore.
 
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