Ding ding ding! We have a winner.
So much for that hose being submersible. Now to order some more. What’s crazy is that split isn’t even at the end of the pipe.
CK5
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Black Betty - Formerly Blaze the Monster Machine
- Thread starter centexk5
- Start date
1984 K5 Project for Dad and kids
So much for that hose being submersible. Now to order some more. What’s crazy is that split isn’t even at the end of the pipe.
You cut an access hole ?
What was pressure rating of hose?
What was pressure rating of hose?
Dunno. If I remember correctly it came with the pump. Gonna call around a few places see if I can find some locally before I go online. I really don’t want to order a roll for 2” of hose.
Came with pump,hmm sure looks like wasn't up the pressure. You have any more of that braided ptfe ? Take outer braid off and use that.
I’ve seen that quite often.
Matter of fact I do.
Fixed. Truck fired up better than it ever has. Wonder how long that’s been leaking. 
Glad you got it fixed so you can enjoy it.
I've never seen the plastic hose used on the metal sender.
I usually use the T style clamps on that high pressure hose, not the worm gear style.
I also double clamp it if there is room, but it's probably not absolutely necessary and sometimes won't fit.
I've never seen the plastic hose used on the metal sender.
I usually use the T style clamps on that high pressure hose, not the worm gear style.
I also double clamp it if there is room, but it's probably not absolutely necessary and sometimes won't fit.
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We’ll see how long it lasts.
Drove the truck 3 weeks ago. Everything was good on the way out but on the way back it started running real lean again. Like 18-20afr. Made it home and on the last bump turning to the neighborhood the afr’s went back to 12-13s.
Went to drive it yesterday and the battery was dead. Swapped it and fired it up and while idling it was at 57psi fuel pressure.
Took it to the store and it was constantly trying to add 27-50% fuel and the afr’s were 12-14. Got back home and checked the pressure and it was down to 12psi.
Kinda at a loss. I’ve got a new fuel filter to throw on but not holding much hope. I’m wondering if maybe my relay is failing? It’s just a 30a but it’s warm to the touch.
Thoughts?
Went to drive it yesterday and the battery was dead. Swapped it and fired it up and while idling it was at 57psi fuel pressure.
Took it to the store and it was constantly trying to add 27-50% fuel and the afr’s were 12-14. Got back home and checked the pressure and it was down to 12psi.
Kinda at a loss. I’ve got a new fuel filter to throw on but not holding much hope. I’m wondering if maybe my relay is failing? It’s just a 30a but it’s warm to the touch.
Thoughts?
You could just pull the relay and put a jumper in from pin 30 to 87 and see how it does. Im betting its the pump. Garbage parts.
Ya I’m betting the same. It’s a covid era pump so probably shit. At least now I’ll be able to buy a walbro. I’m still gonna swap the relay with a 40a since that’s $10 instead of a $100.
I am sorry but if you're having a dead battery after a couple of weeks I would start with a new battery because that battery has a short that's why it drains too fast and it's probably shorting while driving which affects your pump, and everything electric.
Old carbureted cars couldn't care less and I used to run dead batteries all the time. Not anymore with newer cars.
If I have any doubts I change it
You missed the part where I said I swapped it. It was a 7yr old battery that had been shorted a few times and used for all sorts of random things. It owed me nothing. Key off it had 12v but key on it would drop to 6.5v.
So now that you removed the battery does it reset the ecm or it is fine.
Might need some driving to set parameters?
The relay being warm is not a good sign, could be:
- bad relay
- bad connection at the relay
- short somewhere
- pump pulling too much current from internal issue
Do you have a fuse on it?
Is this the factory relay for the injectors too? I always recommend a separate relay for the pump.
Do you have a TBI tank with a baffle? If not it could burn the pump up pretty quick if it loses prime occasionally.
Or it could be a bad covid pump, I remember not being able to source a genuine Walbro at the time you needed those parts, they are plentiful in stock now. But check those items first.
- bad relay
- bad connection at the relay
- short somewhere
- pump pulling too much current from internal issue
Do you have a fuse on it?
Is this the factory relay for the injectors too? I always recommend a separate relay for the pump.
Do you have a TBI tank with a baffle? If not it could burn the pump up pretty quick if it loses prime occasionally.
Or it could be a bad covid pump, I remember not being able to source a genuine Walbro at the time you needed those parts, they are plentiful in stock now. But check those items first.
It's a separate relay. Yes from what I remember I ordered a TBI tank. Rockauto isn't letting me go back that far on my orders to validate it but I'm 99.9% sure.
New relay. New fuel filter. Went to prime it. Saw it go to 10psi and no higher. Couldn’t hear the pump run after that. Good thing I had already pinged Heath to get me a quote for a new pump. Oh well.
Question. Got my fuel pressure sensor installed. It’s not Holley but just a generic 5v 0-100psi.
Do I just tap into the orange 5v wire that other sensors use in the harness? And then the output from the sensor would go to an input wire on the terminator. Do I also need to use the sensor ground wire in the Holley harness for the ground wire on the sensor or just any good chassis ground?
Do I just tap into the orange 5v wire that other sensors use in the harness? And then the output from the sensor would go to an input wire on the terminator. Do I also need to use the sensor ground wire in the Holley harness for the ground wire on the sensor or just any good chassis ground?
Use a proper sensor 5V and clean sensor ground, and the signal wire is the input yes. You also need to know the output of the sensor to tell the ECU, the common one is 0 - 100 psi and linear .5 - 4.5 V, but you need your actual sensor output V/psi chart.
