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Black Betty, Rock Crawlin Trail Truck Build !!!FOR SALE!!

Any guesses on what's different about this winch...

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Water resistant, brake in gearbox, or like a optional led light in it :confused:



By the way ive followed this build since the start keep up the badass work!!
 
He made that crossmember/mount himself.

I hope you have better luck with that Superwinch than I've had with mine. If it doesn't have a drain hole in the bottom of the motor housing, drill one or two in it like a Warn has. Mine had no drain holes and it stopped working and became severely corroded twice until I figured out what it needed.
 
nvrenuf said:
The small spool?
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winner.

The winch is a 12k.lb version of the "Rock98" winch they sell. Only about 21" wide and will fit in between a K5's frame rails. Comes with extra cable kit to relocate the soleniod box, synthetic rope (supplied by viking offroad), Aluminum fairlead, and the remote has a nice LED flashlight feature.

Winch holds 50' of 3/8" rope. One thing that a lot of people don't think about when winching is how much less your winch actually pulls when its got all that cable on the drum. Yes 50' is short but you rarely need more than that for most pulls. When you get more of that rope off the drum your pulling power is far greater. The gear ratio on the M12000 is a good bit lower than the new Superwinch so the Warn is less effected by loss of pulling power with the more rope on the drum. However, the no load line speed is also twice as fast on the Superwinch, which was my biggest complaint with the Warn.

From what I'm told the winch will be introduced at this years SEMA show and I assume they will call it the "Rock12.5" but no confirmation on that.



http://www.superwinch.com/products/category/Talon+Series/4377.0.1.1.29903.84269.0.0.0
 
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Built a rear traction bar with a kit from Barnes4wd. Also got their 14bolt shave cover. Haven't been able to keep stub shafts alive with the doubler. Yukon 35 chromo kit, superjoints, ECGS drive flanges. There goes my LS motor fund...

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Been really giving the truck some beatdowns lately. She's looking sexier and sexier every time out.

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Im diggin the shiny parts pile and the dents! Hard to beat combinition right there :woot:
 
Old Betty is lookin good! You think you could have gotten away with just the stubs and drive flanges instead of the inners also?

The reason I ask is with my 5:1 Atlas I have a feeling my stub shafts don't stand a chance...
 
ezoliver said:
Old Betty is lookin good! You think you could have gotten away with just the stubs and drive flanges instead of the inners also?

The reason I ask is with my 5:1 Atlas I have a feeling my stub shafts don't stand a chance...
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Well the inners would have just become the weak link. I thought about trying just stubs first but I'm tierd of pulling shafts out. Wide Open Design talked me into the super joints and now if the stubs hold I assume the ring gear is the weak link.
 
Or the driveshafts if they arnt 1410s. Thats why I always keep cheapie locking hubs in mine, sort of like a fuse of sorts, and so far its worked wonderful. But I expect there is no such thing as a cheapie 35 spline locking hub.

Edit, and driveslugs dont break, so I suspect you will soon find out the weak link. O well, thats the name of the game, great build btw.
 
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