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Black Betty TBI swap

If you recorded data on the stock chip than that's the chip you want to adjust. Recording data and then using ALDLtobin on another chip is useless.

I'm guessing there are some changes to the chip Dave w sent you so maybe you should stick it in the truck and go record data. Then use ALDLtobin on it. Since you were reading all lean data, when you look at it after ALDLtobin it'll have a bunch of spikes up! Leave them up and smooth the others up, Then repeat.
 
I just did the aldltobin with the different bin file to try it out.

Do you know what I may have done wrong with scanning the original chip with the burn2?
 
No? I don't have a burn2 I have an AutoProm (and others) I read it, thought about it, but can't figure how you did that... was the chip in right?
 
mrdrinksalil said:
yeah i had it in there right. not too sure myself. Waitin on an answer from Dave ....
Click to expand...

I'm really busy at work, might be late tonight or tomorrow before I can get some tutorial screen shots posted. I've been busy with learning the new '0411 flash PCM for my latest project. I'm not going to leave you hanging!

dave w
 
awsome man. Thank you. I'm also gonna need some guidence on that zif socket install. I'm gonna remove my old 24 pin socket tonight. I can handle that much at least.
 
When reading the old '7747 chip, make sure the old '7747 chip is installed in the bottom of the burn 2. There should be several unused chip sockets between the chip and the locking lever / top notch.

dave w
 
I have copied and pasted the info I saved from Moates.net for programming a 27SF512.

dave w

Programming Chips Using Offsets

How to use offsets when programming chips:

If the chip you are programming is of a larger capacity than the binary file you are putting on it, you typically need to use an offset with respect to chip addressing. This option is shown in the TunerPro RT program under ‘Moates Prom I/O’. The Flash n Burn software has an almost identical set of screens. We will use TunerPro RT and Flash n Burn interchangeably for the rest of this document because they operate very almost exactly the same. To program a chip, proceed as follows:
1. Ensure that all programs on the PC are closed then connect the AutoProm or Flash & Burn unit. If using a serial version of the AutoProm, connect its power supply.

  • If using an AutoProm, make sure that it is disconnected from the car’s ECM.
2. Once the unit is connected, start up the TunerPro RT/Flash n Burn program. You should see at the bottom of the window a message like “Connected: AutoProm 2.5.A” or “Found BURN1 …” or something similar. If this is not shown, and you instead see “Hardware Not Found”, then your computer cannot talk to our hardware. If using an AutoProm, there is a switch on the back (black horizontal) of the unit which needs to be placed in the ‘toward the middle of the unit’ position. If it is in the ‘toward the outside’ position, then the chip burning and emulation functions will not work. If the switch is correct or you are using a BURN1/BURN2, the problem is probably drivers. Take a look at this guide for more information on how to resolve driver issues.
3. Assuming that your hardware has been detected, you are now ready to put a chip in the unit. Place the chip such that the chip notch or arrow is oriented in the same direction as the ZIF socket handle, which should be toward the cable connections. Also, make sure that the chip is positioned away from the ZIF handle, so that the empty holes in the socket are present at the handle end. The orientation and positioning of the chip in the socket is CRITICAL, so make sure that this is correct. See pictures on website for clarity.
4. If you are using TunerPro, look under the ‘Tools’ menu item and select the ‘Moates Prom I/O’ option. If you are using Flash n Burn, you should already be looking at this menu. In this menu you will need to do the following

  • in the correct order:

  1. Select the type of chip you’ll be programming from the drop-down menu. This will likely be either the AT29C256 or the 27SF512.
  2. Pick the ‘Load file to buffer’ option, and navigate to the file you want programmed on the chip. Select it, and it will be loaded to memory on the PC. Take note of the file size indicated in the message window. It will likely be one of four sizes: 4k, 16k, 32k, or 64k (kbytes).
  3. In the top right part of the window you will see the offset values that need to be changed. The file size along with the chip size will determine what offsets you need to use. (Flash n Burn usually automatically selects sane offsets based on your chip type and file size.) When you change the offset values, you will notice that other values will change automatically.
    • It is critical that the correct values are filled in for all four boxes before programming the chip.
    You may have to go back and re-enter values depending on the order you enter them. The following table summarizes what offsets you need to use depending on chip used and file size:

    As you can see, the buffer (or file content) will be placed at the ‘end’ of the chip.
  4. Once you have selected the proper chip, the proper file to use for the program content and the proper offsets you are ready to program the chip. If using a 27SF512 chip, you must ‘Erase Chip’ first! This is not needed with the AT29C256. Go ahead and select the ‘Program Chip’ option. Follow this action with a ‘Verify’ command to make sure everything programmed correctly. You should get a ‘Success’ notice.

27SF512 Offsets.jpg

27SF512 Offsets _ Burn2.jpg
 
mrdrinksalil,
_______________________________
I have a large library of '7747 .bin files. Maybe you can post the Broadcast Code (BCC) and I can send you the file you are not able to read with the Burn 2?
________________________________
The first adjustment to make with a .bin file is the Base Pulse Width BPW. After the BPW is adjusted, then changing fuel cells is next after data logging.
_________________________________
I have not been able to modify a zif socket yet.

Basically what I do to the zif socket is like what is done in the pictures to the 27SF512 Chip. I got the pictures from Binder Planet.

What needs to be modified, is to connect pins 1, 2, 28, and 27 to pin 26. Simply put, connect the top 4 pins together then connect to pin 26.(3rd pin down on the right side) I modify the zif socket, not the chip. I cut pins 1, 2, 28, & 27 on the zif socket. After cutting pins 1, 2, 28, & 27, the zif socket then has only the bottom 24 pins that can be soldered into the ECM.

dave w

EEPROM_005a.JPG

EEPROM11.jpg

EEPROM12.jpg

EEPROM006.jpg
 
well I havn't had time to mess with anything else. Prolly wont have time until a week from now. Still cant figure out why I can't read my stock chip but not a huge deal.

I see that I'll need to cut 1,2,27,28 pins off the ziff but whats the best way to "tie" them to 26? solder in a jumper wire? what kind of wire?
 
I just sent an extra ECM to Moates and had them remove the original chip socket and install the one that accepts the 28 pin chip. They only charged $25.00 to do it. I think that is a much cleaner deal than soldering and cutting pins off.
 
mrdrinksalil said:
well I havn't had time to mess with anything else. Prolly wont have time until a week from now. Still cant figure out why I can't read my stock chip but not a huge deal.
Click to expand...

I'm wondering if there is something not configured in the USB Driver for the Burn2?

mrdrinksalil said:
I see that I'll need to cut 1,2,27,28 pins off the ziff but whats the best way to "tie" them to 26? solder in a jumper wire? what kind of wire?
Click to expand...

I use 18 ~ 20 AWG solid copper wire. I salvaged some old electronic equipment that had several feet of insulated 18 ~ 20 AWG solid copper wire. I strip off the insulation on the 18 ~ 20 AWG wire and solder the bare wire to the zif socket leads. I solder the bare wire to all five zif leads (1, 2, 28, 27, 26) on the zif socket. The soldered wire bridges across the front of the zif socket from pins 1, 2, over to pins 28, 27, & 26. I actually solder the wire to the underside of the zif socket. I need to post some pictures of my zif mod and install into a '7747 ECM. A few pictures can help.

dave w
 
mrdrinksalil said:
You solder right to the tip of the pins you just cut off?
Click to expand...

With the ZIF socket upside down, I solder the jumper wire as close to the body of the ZIF socket as possible. The ZIF socket pins are wide near the body of the ZIF socket. Be careful not to get solder on pins 3 and 25 or any other pins except pins 1,2,28,27,26. I cut pins 1,2, 28, 27 as close as possible to the soldered wire that makes a bridge between pins 1,2,28,27,26.

FYI, In the electronics world ... soldering a componet, like the ZIF socket upside down ... is called a "Dead Bug" mod. I guess a ZIF socket with it's pins pointing up looks like a dead bug on it's back.

dave w
 
ok. got it. solder it up, THEN cut the pins off. Should be no problem. FYI I gotta go outa town for a wedding so this is gonna be on the back burner till next week.
 
Hey guys, I didn't read all that as my life is being rude and taking all my time... but since you have the equiptment now I would get some tech support from Moates (which is excellent) and change out the socket in the ECM and get it over with rather then the chip modifacation.

If I missed something and am out of line just disregard...

One hint for removing the out chip pins from the ECM is use a little brake cleaner and tooth brush to clean off the clear coating that covers the electronics board in the ECM. Then wipe clean with a terry cloth type rag. It makes de-soldering and soldering SO much easier and cleaner job when done. You really can't even see this coating but it's there and messes up a good clean solder.
 
ok so I finaly got some time today to play. I got the ZIF socket soldered into the computer one night this week. Burned my first chip this morning. Hooked the computer up in the truck and after getting the battery charged up she fired up! :D Hopefully one night this week I'll be able to log some data and see where I am at.
 
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