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Blazer is really done. Last pictures while she is still mine.

Right on kert! If thats you numbers, I guess mine would be about 100hp at the wheels. Maybe!

That video looked and sounded awesome! I can only dream of having a K5 like yours. Kinda looked like it wanted to jump off the dyno when you hit the skinny pedal!!!!

Hell, with my shift kit, mine almost jumped off the dyno during smog.



Awesome rig!!!!!!!:bow:
 
sweetk30 said:
go for it buddy . you know the way to my town :whistle:

an then :eek1:
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hahaha...ok Brett, I owe you an ass kickin' next time I come through Horseheads!:pimp:

cybrfire said:
OK, so there are gona be two winners. One was closer on HP and one closer on Torque. Both are getting a $50 gift cert.

Z71 paramedic wins on the HP number.
'80 427 wins on the Torque number.

You guys should call Tracy and she'll set up the credit/gift cert. 712-472-0200

Official numbers, 256.71 HP and 358.76 ft. lbs. torque.

I think at the flywheel the motor itself would be close to 500/500. Just guesstimating that though.

Some things to keep in mind if you didn't go through the build thread and look at everything.

SM465 is big heavy parts. Two transfer cases to spin. Driveshaft weighs some where around 70lbs. 14BFF is a heavy carrier and this one has an orb in it which is just more weight. Rims/tires got to be around 175ish each.

Engine accessories will also pull down the numbers. Alternator, water pump, power steering and a york compressor. On a side note the York would not disengage the whole time it was on the dyno. Ended up with an airline disconnected.

Am I disappointed, No. The seat of the pants dyno numbers are all I care about and like I said, I was there for the tune and we accomplished that.
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seat of the pants is where its at Kert....I want to race ya now! 2:1 range.
 
76zimmer said:
hahaha...ok Brett, I owe you an ass kickin' next time I come through Horseheads!:pimp:




seat of the pants is where its at Kert....I want to race ya now! 2:1 range.
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It's on buddy! You going to silver lake again this year?
 
Damnit!!!! I just went back and looked! My first guess was 218hp 356tq!!! Why did i have to second guess it with 29hp and 380tq!? My first guess had me within 2lb.ft..... And my second guess was only 5lb.ft from being the winnar. Where is the crying smilie?!? :tear:

My guesses
218 356
295 380
actual
256 358


Oh well.
 
y5mgisi said:
Damnit!!!! I just went back and looked! My first guess was 218hp 356tq!!! Why did i have to second guess it with 29hp and 380tq!? My first guess had me within 2lb.ft..... And my second guess was only 5lb.ft from being the winnar. Where is the crying smilie?!?

My guesses
218 356
295 380
actual
256 358


Oh well.
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:whistle::whistle::whistle:
 
Thanks sweetk30. Thats the one i need.
sad0004.gif
 
So now that is up and running good. I have a very few small details to tidy up.

The clutch on the onboard air was stuck engaged. Played with that a little bit tonight and got it to work a little better. I'll keep working with this one a little more.

I never have put a bezel ring around my shift boot so, i'll get that done.

The crankcase evacuation system to the headers worked sorta 50/50. One side seems to work great. the other side has a bit to much suction on it and pulls oil out of the valve cover and spits it into the hot exhaust. Makes for some nice smoke. I got some ideas on this one and will experiment with a few things till I find a solution I like.

I've always wanted to do the onboard welder. I have a Ford type alternator on it now and definitely don't have room to mount any other belt driven accessories. Has anybody done the onboard welders with MSD boxes and after market fuel injection systems? Seems like the touchy electronics might not like the alternator putting out so much voltage.
 
I used 520 as a guess with .72 as the correction factor (what we saw with my camaro on a dynojet).
 
The PCV that go straight into the exhaust will do that, needs a bunch of baffleing (sp) or run a different system. Seems to me they run them on drag cars only because most other application have that issue.
 
Why not run a vac pump? we tried all kinds of pan evac stuff on the chassis dyno and never saw a gain.
 
80' 427 said:
Why not run a vac pump?
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No room for anymore belt driven accessories otherwise I would seriously consider it. Wonder if there is an electric vaccum pump. Have to look around and see what I can find there. EDIT: Lots of electric vaccum pumps around.
 
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Maybe I missed it, why not run a regular pcv set up?
 
cybrfire said:
No room for anymore belt driven accessories otherwise I would seriously consider it. Wonder if there is an electric vaccum pump. Have to look around and see what I can find there. EDIT: Lots of electric vaccum pumps around.
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Nice video Kert, sounds good, I like it. :thumb:

On the vacuum pump, if you really want one you kind of already have one on there, just hook the york intake side to the crankcase. Beware if you do that you need the one piece oil pan gaskets and better valve cover gaskets or you'll suck in the gasket. Also, you may need some sort of oil seperator/circulator for that york because mine foams some oil out the pressure line and I don't think it would take long for it to suck itself dry if it were running full time, although flow would go down pretty quick once the crankcase was under vacuum. But that would also prevent any cooling air traveling through the compressor, not sure how reliable it would be. Also, you'd need some valves or something to turn on/off to switch between compressor and vacuum pump mode.

I'd probably just hook a PCV and breather up and run it if it was me.
 
they do sell electric vac pumps, seen em in Summit...
 
folkenheath said:
Nice video Kert, sounds good, I like it. :thumb:

On the vacuum pump, if you really want one you kind of already have one on there, just hook the york intake side to the crankcase. Beware if you do that you need the one piece oil pan gaskets and better valve cover gaskets or you'll suck in the gasket. Also, you may need some sort of oil seperator/circulator for that york because mine foams some oil out the pressure line and I don't think it would take long for it to suck itself dry if it were running full time, although flow would go down pretty quick once the crankcase was under vacuum. But that would also prevent any cooling air traveling through the compressor, not sure how reliable it would be. Also, you'd need some valves or something to turn on/off to switch between compressor and vacuum pump mode.

I'd probably just hook a PCV and breather up and run it if it was me.
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Interesting idea but probably alot of messing around to make it all work.


ryoken said:
they do sell electric vac pumps, seen em in Summit...
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Yep, found them online as well. I may well go back to a pvc hard to say.

Currently the blazer is back in storage with all the batts disconnected. Got a parade coming up and will get it back out for that then it will go back in storage again till some winter wheeling presents itself.

Lots of other things that need some attention. Doin' my best to stay focused on projects that have been started and then not finished, before starting any more.
 
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