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body work

found a local guy who says he knows what he is doing when it comes to sandblasting so i took my fenders there today hopefully there will be no warping!

this is what i started out with, no rust and only a few dings.

IMG_20120206_123422.jpg


on body fillers, whats the difference between evercoats rage extreme and gold?

what kind of sanding blocks should i buy to start doing body work?
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I've never used the extreme, that's their newer stuff.. supposed to be pinhole-free... the gold was their higher-end filler known for good adhesion and easy sanding...


a standard hand block and hand longboard would take care of any sanding needs... longboards requiring designated paper... but there are quite a few sanding blocks on the market these days, some rigid, some more flexible than others... whatever feels good to you...


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I do have 2 or 3 of those sanding blocks in the first picture.

I got my fenders back from the sandblasters. Im really impressed with how good of shape they are, but im also unimpressed with what was uncovered.

crappy cell phone pics. (I really need to buy a camera)
IMG_20120208_112943.jpg


IMG_20120208_112924.jpg


that fender is in practically perfect shape.

but this one uncovered the only rust spot on the both fenders.
IMG_20120208_113132.jpg


Im a little nervous on fixing it. I have 2 other fenders that will be great candidates. I have a great welder and alright welding skills. Just never really have done thin metal and patch work like this.
 
kylerj133 said:
but im also unimpressed with what was uncovered.
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Aren't you glad you had it blasted now? That's the way I feel whenever I get one back...I am disappointed to see the rust but I am glad I find it so it doesn't go unnoticed and come back later and ruin all my hard work.

If you have other fenders, I would go ahead and patch that one for the practice...you might be pleasantly surprised by the results...
 
Chief Brody said:

Aren't you glad you had it blasted now? That's the way I feel whenever I get one back...I am disappointed to see the rust but I am glad I find it so it doesn't go unnoticed and come back later and ruin all my hard work.

If you have other fenders, I would go ahead and patch that one for the practice...you might be pleasantly surprised by the results...
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yea I know what you mean.....:rolleyes: Thats one reason why I wanted to get it blasted to uncover everything. If im going to do it, I want to do it right.

As for the other fenders I have, they are rusted on the bottoms thats why i got these ones. I think I should be able to cut it out and replace it fairly easy. Its never as easy as it sounds, thats why im planning for the worst. So we will see how it goes.
 
kylerj133 said:
I think I should be able to cut it out and replace it fairly easy. Its never as easy as it sounds
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As I found out, it doesn't have to be pretty...just solid...and when you mud over it, it disappears...
 
ryoken said:
sure.. just get a 1.8 gun for primer... ya just have to be VERY careful and thorough cleaning them.. they are generally not rebuildable...

what kinda paint are you thinking? metallic or solid? base or single stage?
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kylerj133 said:
Im going to go with solid, base/clear im going to pick up some body filler at a local paint store and post some pics.
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unless you think I should go different? Im pretty much clueless when it comes to painting/body work. thats why I made this thread.

I want to go to a stock color. its called medium blue/Hawaiian blue
 
your gonna want something with a 1.3 tip on it for base.. you can shoot clear thru either of those tips if need be....

base/clear is actually a good way for noobs.. all ya gotta worry about is clear... it'll just be pricier than a single stage... keep in mind, darker colors take more to cover, so ya may run thru a bit more base with a bad covering color... med blue's ain't bad usually, but navy blues, etc can be tough...
 
I think I got the body work done. So I have raw metal with bondo. whats next? Filler primer? what brand?
 
fill prime over mud and sanded paint.... raw steel it's nice to put a bit of zinc chromate on first, than a fill primer..

i like the nason 2k urethane primer.. economical and works good...
 
ryoken said:
fill prime over mud and sanded paint.... raw steel it's nice to put a bit of zinc chromate on first, than a fill primer..

i like the nason 2k urethane primer.. economical and works good...
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The nason primer is okay to put over the zinc? So once thats sprayed do I cross block? Is this where the guide coat comes in and glazing comes in?
 
kylerj133 said:
The nason primer is okay to put over the zinc? So once thats sprayed do I cross block? Is this where the guide coat comes in and glazing comes in?
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the nason is awesome over the zinc.... just follow my directions in here...

http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=262999&highlight=zinc+chromate+tech

yes, fill primer is where you do your crossblocking.... and yes, guide coat can be used than if needed... generally the time you use glazing putty is about 8 to 10 hrs after you fill prime... over your bodywork area's, known chips, scratches, etc.. than you wetsand and spot prime those areas, than x-block it with 320 to 400 depending on what paint...
 
Paul, I usually use a Sealer before any single stage or basecoat...is that something you don't usually do? (looking at the linked thread)
I guess I just feel its an extra barrier of protection to keep the bodywork from coming through to the base.
also used my HVLP for the first time on the wheels...man I like how the paint goes on the object instead of in the air!!!!
 
oh, a sealer is certainly preferred..... various ways and products on that route too...

I just don't talk about sealers much as it's an added expense that most don't want to bother with.... many paint manny's will also void warranties when sealers aren't used...

it's a hard enough battle to get people around here to put down the Rusto and buy a catalyzed product of any sort, let alone fancy sealers too! :haha:
 
ryoken said:
it's a hard enough battle to get people around here to put down the Rusto and buy a catalyzed product of any sort, let alone fancy sealers too! :haha:
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OK...now I am curious...what kind of sealer and do you have to sand it also before you paint? What does it do for you that makes it worth the extra work and expense?
 
sealers are usually not sanded... they are applied right prior to paint.. usually 2 coats.. than come right back in and paint.. unlike a filling primer, it is on the thin side... it's purpose is to seal, not fill... to keep peroxides and other catalysts on the previous coatings from affecting the topcoat....

back in the day, enamel's and certain topcoats had been notorious for "bleed thru's" in the paint.. fillers and glazes would actually change the topcoat color, and you would see all the bodywork areas in the paint as a different hue...

I generally only spray sealer in a booth environment... being that it's usually unsanded right prior to paint, perfect is paramount.. any chit in the sealer is directly translated thru the paint...


some light scuffing, etc can be done with certain sealers... and there are different kinds of sealers, from a product unto itself, to thinned out fill primers, etc...
 
the bleed thru is where I got the step from...seems like it was just normal to primeseal before color, also gives a uniform color for your basepaint...I guess I didn't need it on my wheels, but it doesn't hurt either.
 
what colors/kind of paint have problems with bleed thru? Is sealer something I should worry about? Im doing a metallic blue instead of a solid blue..
 
kylerj133 said:
what colors/kind of paint have problems with bleed thru? Is sealer something I should worry about? Im doing a metallic blue instead of a solid blue..
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I've seen shadows of body filler areas that will bleed through lighter colors....I've always done a sealer for the first "finish coat" that is first to go on with your final coats...It isn't mandatory, especially if you have a consistent finish to apply your topcoats to (even colored primer covering all surfaces)
If your using Nason brands, get the 2part urethane sealer, if you want easy get the acrylic sealer (its ready to spray out of the can, but may not be as durable as the 2 part) and I've had pretty good results with it too.
Hopefully Paul will get back to this and give you better direction.
 
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