so I will want to put the sealer on after I cross block the nason 2k urethane primer? Do I want to cross block the sealer?
CK5
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body work
- Thread starter kyle.rj133
- Start date
You should not have to sand the sealer primer at all, and all body work and finish sanding needs to be done before the sealer coat. You should consider the sealer your first coat of color...it helps to "seal" under lying work, and prevent bleedthrough, and it provides a consistent base for you to apply your color coats to. If you have a uniform finish after performing all the sanding steps (a consistent color of primer on every panel) you don't really need the sealer coat, but if you have some areas that are different colors, or some putty filler here and there, I would use a sealer before your color coats. My own personal opinion is that it is safer to have a consistent color finish before putting on color coats, especially lighter colors. If you have a consistent under coat it will give your color coats a uniform color throughout as long as you get consistent paint coverage of your topcoats.
If you apply the sealer coat and let it sit overnight, it should be scuff sanded with a 3M pad before paint application though....be sure to read the instructions on the can, some products have differing windows of application, and prep if they are not covered right away.
The thing that scares me is that the sealer has to be darn near perfect...and I've never sprayed paint before...almost the whole rig was taken to bare metal and is or will be covered with buff colored Nason 2k...I like the idea of sealer...I just don't know if I trust my ability to shoot it...
sealer is a little thinner than a paint coat, but really isn't a big deal...look at it this way, you can practice a little on an old piece to get a feel for it, and if you get it on the vehicle and feel it going on in a bad way, you can stop let it dry and correct the problems before you get to your color coats.
Also use a 3M maroon pad to scuff if you let it sit for 6+ hours before your topcoats.
Also use a 3M maroon pad to scuff if you let it sit for 6+ hours before your topcoats.
yea same here.. this is all new to me. I like the idea of sealer and not having bleed thru after all the work, but I have never sprayed before. What happens if you have runs or something do you have to scuff and respray the hole thing?
I will have to do more reading..
I would suggest just loading up some thinner in the gun, and get used to your gun first. Just spray it into the air, it will have a "feel" for the trigger which is good to know...there is a point where you can only blow air, and when you pull the trigger a little more it will feed the liquid in the cup to the tip. Once you get a feel for that point, you can shoot the thinner through the gun to see what kind of pattern it has to it, and you can use that knowledge of pattern, and spray accordingly, knowing what your pattern looks like....its easy to see on the first color coat, but maybe not so easy to see on other coats, that is where that knowledge of your pattern will come in. I like to pull the trigger on the gun so it blows only air, before putting any paint through it, this will give the air a chance to stabilize before putting paint to the tip. Now here's where it really pays to shoot a spare panel, just hangin on the wall or something to get a feel for how much your putting on...keep about 10-12" from the surface, and keep the gun moving. Start outside of the panel, so your spraying off the surface, pull the trigger to get the air moving, but not liquid yet, then start moving the gun to the surface, and just before getting to the surface, pull the trigger fully and keep moving.
I think there is probably some videos on youtube showing someone painting something, check a few of those out, because if your like me, pictures (videos) are worth more than words sometimes.
Are you using an HVLP gun or siphon/gravity feed conventional gun? I just started using my first HVLP, and it puts a lot more paint on than my conventional siphon cup gun....
If you get into a run or sag, that is another realm of paintwork...lots of ways to repair the problem, of which I don't have a lot of experience doing. Take the little extra time to prep a spare panel (even a piece of 2x2 sheet metal) and then you know what your finished product will look like.
If you find yourself in a problem, you can stop where your at, and figure out whats going on, and how to rectify it, instead of it being on your truck.
In the end, you'll be amazed how much better a gun job w/2 part paint will be than a rattle can or a rustoleum job is.
I think there is probably some videos on youtube showing someone painting something, check a few of those out, because if your like me, pictures (videos) are worth more than words sometimes.
Are you using an HVLP gun or siphon/gravity feed conventional gun? I just started using my first HVLP, and it puts a lot more paint on than my conventional siphon cup gun....
If you get into a run or sag, that is another realm of paintwork...lots of ways to repair the problem, of which I don't have a lot of experience doing. Take the little extra time to prep a spare panel (even a piece of 2x2 sheet metal) and then you know what your finished product will look like.
If you find yourself in a problem, you can stop where your at, and figure out whats going on, and how to rectify it, instead of it being on your truck.
In the end, you'll be amazed how much better a gun job w/2 part paint will be than a rattle can or a rustoleum job is.
