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Bottom Line--which is best, 4" or 6" LIFT???

D

DuckTruck

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Hot Springs, Arkansas
Comrades,

I just recently picked up an 1984 ex-military K5. Love it....now time to mod it.

I want a suspension lift. I know I want to run at least 38" tires (either TSL's or Boggers) on 15x10 wheels. Don't mind doing some cutting to the fender wells. This will be a play toy and its primary purpose is to get me to and from the duck woods.

With that said, I'm doing this on the cheap so to not reap hell at home; however, by cheap I don't mean junk.

I live in Hot Springs, Arkansas and the Superlift ORV park is about about 10 min. away. Thus, I will be making a visit or two and flex is therefore important to me. I have been noticing many rides on the forum running a 4" lift and 40"s with some trimming.

I am inclined to go with a 6" lift, but I don't want to run into driveshaft issues, brake line probs, etc. However, is a small lift (lower COG) and big meats/trimming the way to go to accomplish this?

My goal is to throw the lift on with the minimal amount of "drama" as possible. So.....tell me.....what do I need?

Thanks in advance,

DUCK
 
With a 38" tire I would run a 6" lift and fender trimming. Most of the time you will need to address driveshafts and brake lines with a 6" lift. If you do go with a 4" you will have to trim ALOT to fit a 38" tire without rubbing when flexed (I run a 35" tire with 8" and can stuff the front tire into the backside of the fender easily and my springs aren't real flexy. Also going with a 10" wide wheel will make it even worse.
 
Thanks 4x4HIGH.

As mentioned previously, I want a 6" lift, but those driveline and brakes issues are making me nervous.

I wish there was some way to know for sure if I would be ok versus inheriting these issues!?!

LAW
 
DuckTruck said:
Thanks 4x4HIGH.

As mentioned previously, I want a 6" lift, but those driveline and brakes issues are making me nervous.

I wish there was some way to know for sure if I would be ok versus inheriting these issues!?!

LAW
Click to expand...
It doesnt cost much to add a couple inches to your drivelines, and extended brake lines arent much either.
 
Superlift sells a driveline spacer for the front axle but you would need to have the rear shaft lengthened. Unfortunately, you'll have to install the lift first to know for sure whether you need to deal with the driveshafts or not and if so then the driveline shop will tell you how to measure correctly for them to fix it for you.

The extended brakes lines are relatively cheap and easy to install.
 
Its not a hard and fast rule that you won't have the same issues with a 4" as a 6". I know several guys who have had to get their drivelines lengthened with a 4" lift. I would recommend extended brake lines on either one.

So in all reality you are not guaranteed that you won't need extended driveshafts and or brake lines on a 4" lift.
 
I had to lenghten my rear driveline 1 inch for a 4 inch lift. And for a 4 inch lift, you will want 6 inch lift brake lines.
 
If you're willing to trim, my recommendation would be 4" of lift.

Lower COG, less (if any, they need to be relocated at the least) modifications to brakelines, driveshafts, etc. and the suspension will ride and flex better.

As long as you know that you'll have to trim a fair amount, that's the way to go IMO.
 
Which 6" kit is best?

I know I have seen a lot posted on Tuff Country vs. Rough Country, but noticed that all the info is for the 4" kit and seems to be rather dated. Any current info on the 6" kits as far as spring rates go?

DUCK
 
38377k5 said:
If you're willing to trim, my recommendation would be 4" of lift.

Lower COG, less (if any, they need to be relocated at the least) modifications to brakelines, driveshafts, etc. and the suspension will ride and flex better.

As long as you know that you'll have to trim a fair amount, that's the way to go IMO.
Click to expand...

Well....maybe 4" is best. Aw hell, I dont know.

Anyone have a "trimming guide" as to what equals a "fair amount" as described above.

DUCK
 
whether you choose a 4 or 6, keep in mind, you wont get the best setup from all one manufacturer in a kit.... most trucks usually get their first 4" from a shackle flip out back.. either DIY4X or ORD... that means you run a stock spring, rides better than a lift spring... front springs, BDS or TC, RC if your on a budget...

also you can run a 4"..... trim some.. need more? put zero rates in all around for another inch... need more? throw a 1" bodylift in...
 
I agree with ya. If I could afford to at this time, I would run a shackle flip rear and just order front springs. However, by the time you add those parts in AND the add shocks and the other odds and ends, I am afraid it would add up real quick.

Plus, with a shackle lift I am limited to 4" of lift...

DUCK
 
no your not.. you can run any lift spring with em for any height.....

bet you'd pay the same or more on an all spring kit, as you would buying a flip and front springs...
 
ryoken said:
also you can run a 4"..... put zero rates in all around for another inch... need more? throw a 1" bodylift in...
Click to expand...
This is the way I'm going right off the bat. I want most weight low and be able to clock the T-case. So a body lift is needed, and maybe Tcase drop 1" with full skid plates.

total 6" of lift
4" springs
4" shackle flip
1" 0rates
1" body lift

And remember Duck, blocks aren't that bad either. Just depends on how you'll be romping on it.
 
I have a 6" lift. The first picture shows my drive shaft before I lengthened it. The second picture shows how tight the brake lines got before I lengthened them.

DSC01321.jpg


DSC01329.jpg
 
DuckTruck said:
Well....maybe 4" is best. Aw hell, I dont know.

Anyone have a "trimming guide" as to what equals a "fair amount" as described above.

DUCK
Click to expand...


Check here

Basically you're looking at a couple inches at the rear of the fender at the bottom, and some at the front and that's basically it. It's pretty typical for those areas to be rusty anyway.
 
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