Bottom Line--which is best, 4" or 6" LIFT???

[blazinzuk]

To start with a 4" spring lift is not a bad start. You can add ez inchs to it, that will give another inch, plus move the axle forward a bit. They are not that expensive. The stock shackles are weak so getting some aftermarket shackles are useful which adds a little more, with 4" springs you can easily end up with 6" of lift.

To start with the 4" would not be a bad idea. I do not think the difference between a 6 and a 4 is that noticable to most folks, especially with the tire size you plan on running.

But the 6 can turn in to an 8 with all of the afore mentioned mods.

I have had blazers with 4" of lift and 35s stock on 35s 9" of lift on 38s (and 40s) and 3" of lift on 42s. Most of these were on the same truck. I now have a blazer with a 6" lift on 35s

If flex is important than you will have to trim no matter what, even if you went a full 8" (6' spring+ ez inch+shackle)

A flexible 6" lift is going to be more stable off road than a super stiff 4" lift

 

[K85 Octane]

A flexible 6" lift is going to be more stable off road than a super stiff 4" lift

oooo
but that super flexy 4" w/0-rates sounds soooo nice
but agree, gotta keep the weight level and on the ground to be effective.
That "hows xxx lift with xxx tires look" thread is a good tool too.

 

[DuckTruck]

This is the way I'm going right off the bat. I want most weight low and be able to clock the T-case. So a body lift is needed, and maybe Tcase drop 1" with full skid plates.

total 6" of lift
4" springs
4" shackle flip
1" 0rates
1" body lift

And remember Duck, blocks aren't that bad either. Just depends on how you'll be romping on it.

Sorry for my ignorance, but what does being able to "clock" the T-case mean? Can this only be done with a 4" lift, not a 6"?

And I agree.....obviously, rear blocks are not preferred, but are probably going to be mandatory at this point due to budget concerns.

Thanks again to everyone for their input,

DUCK

 

[DuckTruck]

I have a 6" lift. The first picture shows my drive shaft before I lengthened it. The second picture shows how tight the brake lines got before I lengthened them.

Thanks for those pics....that helps a TON.

In regard to your brake lines, had you relocated them prior to that picture or are they in a "stock position" at that point?

As to the driveshaft and the t-case output shaft, I can obviously see where it "used to be". Is that pic with your truck sitting on level ground or flexed out as in the "brake pic"?

DUCK

 

[DuckTruck]

Check here

Basically you're looking at a couple inches at the rear of the fender at the bottom, and some at the front and that's basically it. It's pretty typical for those areas to be rusty anyway.

I like your way of thinking and I agree 100%. If it is rusty or could possibly even become rusty.....aw hell, cut it off

DUCK

 

[DuckTruck]

I agree with you all.....I want to keep it "flexy" for sure. Does that change anyone's opinion as to 4" vs. 6"? Or give the "nod" to one brand over another?

Lastly, to make things more complicated.....a buddy has approached me with a used (but not for long and very inclusive) Rough Country 4" lift for 200 bones.

What to do?!?

DUCK

 

[K5 rockcrawler]

Run a 4 and cut a way what you need. I have 6" springs and 39.5, but I took out overloads in back and put spacers between leafs on springs. Makes it more flexey and takes away some lift.

 

[DuckTruck]

Run a 4 and cut a way what you need. I have 6" springs and 39.5, but I took out overloads in back and put spacers between leafs on springs. Makes it more flexey and takes away some lift.

Thanks for the input man.

Well, it appears that for flex....everyone prefers a 4"? Anyone object to this fact?

What about this as another option. Buy the "used 4" kit" that I described above and if I need a bit more, even after trimming, throw some diy4x 4.5 or 6" cross-tied shackles.

Would it not be "super flexy" to run 4.5" or 6" shackles and flex the crap out of the stock leaf springs? Wouldn't that accomplish my lift goals? Just buy longer shocks and roll with it...anything to worry about here?

DUCK

 

[magik235]

Thanks for those pics....that helps a TON.

In regard to your brake lines, had you relocated them prior to that picture or are they in a "stock position" at that point?

As to the driveshaft and the t-case output shaft, I can obviously see where it "used to be". Is that pic with your truck sitting on level ground or flexed out as in the "brake pic"?

DUCK

The brake lines were in the stock location. I went with Skyjacker 6" extended lines and it completely solved the problem. The drive shaft picture was taken on level ground with no flex. It cost me $200 to have the drive shaft lengthened.

 

[AJMBLAZER]

What about this as another option. Buy the "used 4" kit" that I described above and if I need a bit more, even after trimming, throw some diy4x 4.5 or 6" cross-tied shackles.

I say buy the lift...or I think thatK30guy has a lift for sale for cheap in Kansas...then get a shackle flip in the rear. 4" in the front, 4" in the rear. As everyone has said, if you need more get zero rates for each end and also relocate the front axle forward an inch.

Would it not be "super flexy" to run 4.5" or 6" shackles and flex the crap out of the stock leaf springs? Wouldn't that accomplish my lift goals? Just buy longer shocks and roll with it...anything to worry about here?

DUCK

All kinds of geometry issues with this.

 

[Lotsa_Faith]

If you end up going with a 6", just do the homebrew shackle flip in the back and some 2" blocks....will cost you less than $100 for the blocks and longer ubolts. You can buy shocks for an '03 superduty 4x4 that will work for around $30 bucks a pop. Then all you need are some 6" front springs. This is the direction I have gone with my M1009, and surprisingly I have a pretty good bit of room for the 37" boggers!

 

[DuckTruck]

If you end up going with a 6", just do the homebrew shackle flip in the back and some 2" blocks....will cost you less than $100 for the blocks and longer ubolts. You can buy shocks for an '03 superduty 4x4 that will work for around $30 bucks a pop. Then all you need are some 6" front springs. This is the direction I have gone with my M1009, and surprisingly I have a pretty good bit of room for the 37" boggers!

GREAT looking rig man. I hope mine can get to that point soon!

DUCK

 

[DuckTruck]

Lotsa Faith,

Any driveline extension issues with the 6" lift?

DUCK

 

[stumpjump]

I built my first chev on a tight budget, it can be done, here's my parts list.

$100.00- 4" used craigslist lift with raised pitman arm, 4" front springs, shocks (badly worn but there) 4" blocks and u-bolts (you should replace these if you get a lift where they're included.)

$175.00- Dana 44 and 14b sf with 4.10s and the rear had a posi unit , off craigslist.

$150.00- 5 hummer bias ply take offs on rims, another craigslist find.

$44.00- 98 dodge 1500 drivers side brake lines ar 33" long and have the proper fittings and are only $22 per side

Free- Relocated the rear brake line bracket

So there you go for 500 or less if you can find the deals you can have a decent and functional blazer. It preformed well and it most everything I asked so long as I wasn't to hard on it. But eventually I got tired of nuking 44 shafts, breaking 208 t cases, the leaky automatic, and parted it out for way more than I had into it to build my current rig.

If I were you I would just stock pile parts and put it all in at once, some good craigslist searching will get you a set of 3/4 ton rears and a decent lift and your tires and the rest of the little odds and ends you can pick up and clean up along the way. FWIW I would go 4" and 35s or 36's to try and keep the 10b alive. If you want to go with big meats expect to see alot of breakage and alot of money exiting you bank account.

 

[Lotsa_Faith]

Lotsa Faith,

Any driveline extension issues with the 6" lift?

DUCK

Luckily, No. the front doesn't have too much room to play with so I will eventually get a spacer for it. The rear had about 2" of contact with the splines...so I could have left them and probably been okay for a little bit. however, I swapped it out with a lengthened cv shaft I got off craigslist.

 

[MTBLAZER89]

Well....maybe 4" is best. Aw hell, I dont know.

Anyone have a "trimming guide" as to what equals a "fair amount" as described above.

DUCK

~5" with 40x16's on 16x10 wheels.

Measurements

 

[Hogback Fabrication]

Well....maybe 4" is best. Aw hell, I dont know.

Anyone have a "trimming guide" as to what equals a "fair amount" as described above.

DUCK

There really isn't one, there is so much info on this site about trimming you should be able to find what you need. I know I've put up some pictures, search through my username if you can't find good pictures.

Sorry for my ignorance, but what does being able to "clock" the T-case mean?

Clocking the t-case means mounting it in an orientation that rotates the transfer case up under the belly of the truck, for more clearance under the middle of the truck.

And I agree.....obviously, rear blocks are not preferred, but are probably going to be mandatory at this point due to budget concerns.

Thanks again to everyone for their input,

DUCK

I can totally understand the budget thing, a shackle flip in the rear is a MUCH better way to go than a block and there isn't a big price difference. You can basically get a shackle flip for the price of blocks, u-bolts etc.

 

[DuckTruck]

Thank you MTBlazer89.....that is EXACTLY what I was looking for.

DUCK

 

[DuckTruck]

I can totally understand the budget thing, a shackle flip in the rear is a MUCH better way to go than a block and there isn't a big price difference. You can basically get a shackle flip for the price of blocks, u-bolts etc.

I agree 100% that the shackle flip is the way to go for the rear of the truck. However, I do believe it to be substantially more money since the lift kit includes shocks and the shackle flip doesn't.....that could easily make a 150 or 200 dollar difference; thereby doubling the actual cost of a flip vs. a block included in a kit.

With that said, down the road I will do a flip (and when that time does come I will be in touch!), but at this point the costs of the included blocks cannot be beat.

DUCK

 

[88jimmy4x4]

6" kit will also require some front exhaust crossover modification or the front d-shaft will hit it. I didnt lengthen my rear d-shaft, I had them add a CV and that made up the length shortage.