Break in oil

[centexk5]

Oil pressure is running ~55psi driving and ~35 at idle. No smoke out of the breather. Oil level hasn't changed. From what I'm seeing, this engine is quite happy and I haven't been nice to it. It does see 3500-4000 at least once every time I drive it.

 

[Babaganoosh]

BP Driven is widely acclaimed as one of the best products on the market at the moment, including by lake speed Jr
Google it

I have always used M1 full synthetic in my truck but wanting to switch to driven next oil change.

 

[Bent77]

I have always used M1 full synthetic in my truck but wanting to switch to driven next oil change.

Why switch now? Stay synthetic
M1 if your don’t have issues

New build I’d start with Driven

 

[Bent77]

I have always used M1 full synthetic in my truck but wanting to switch to driven next oil change.

Why switch now? Stay synthetic
M1 if your don’t have issues

New build I’d start with Driven

 

[Babaganoosh]

Why switch now? Stay synthetic
M1 if your don’t have issues

New build I’d start with Driven

I thought driven was full synthetic? I saw it save cleetus engine in lumber jack, and I'm just trying to treat her right although my right foot hates her.

 

[Bent77]

I thought driven was full synthetic? I saw it save cleetus engine in lumber jack, and I'm just trying to treat her right although my right foot hates her.

You would have to look, but I’m pretty sure they have both

When doing break in though I do not use synthetic because I’ve had issues with rings not coming in

 

[Babaganoosh]

I dumped cheap crap in it first time, although when I recently did the cam swap M1 went back in it. Is that the wrong thing to do? I would assume it would be ok and I put tons of loubie doobie on it.

 

[folkenheath]

I'm about to drop a 388 I built nearly 3 decades ago in a Blazer just to play for a couple years while I build my dream drivetrain. And I am not switching oils, I had run Valvoline VR1 dino oil in that thing it's whole life, I'm not switching it now, it's been sitting for 8 years unused in my Dad's barn because he was going to use it. But since its still sitting there I borrowed back my own engine, ha ha.

My point is, if its working good no real need to switch.

You can have an oil analysis done if you really want to know.

I would never dump cheap crap in it, you want it to break in, not potentially fail.

In my modern engines I run Penzoil Ultra Platinum.

In my toys I run Lucas Racing or Mobil 1 racing, Driven would be fine too, its a quality product, I use their Breakin oil almost exclusively.

I might consider the Valvoline restore and protect if they have one for performance engines, haven't looked at that option yet, the engine is ~30 years old (it was the 3rd V8 I ever built, and the first one I built entirely myself), I better stick with what is working. Its been through countless burnouts, drag racing, nitrous, etc. Still going, if it fails now it doesn't owe me anything.

 

[Babaganoosh]

Well by cheap crap I used castrol 10w30, is that cheap crap? I used it for 20 years in my old 350. I did the 100, 500 and a 1000 then went to M1 once a year. Always used a AC delco filter but the passed two I used that fancy K&N with the spot to turn it with a wrench.

 

[centexk5]

I use Mobil 5-30 in everything from my Tundra to the zero turn. Never had an issue. Guess the blazer is going to be the unique one with it's fancy schmancy oil.

 

[centexk5]

I dumped cheap crap in it first time, although when I recently did the cam swap M1 went back in it. Is that the wrong thing to do? I would assume it would be ok and I put tons of loubie doobie on it.

It's the rings that don't like to seat with synthetics. Swapping a cam you are fine.

 

[Bent77]

Roller cam yes

 

[centexk5]

Actually I change it quite fast, basically after one dyno session or a maybe 1 or 2 quick street drives assuming you put some cylinder pressure in there to seat in the rings and didn't baby it. Sometimes I change it before the dyno session is even over if I will be adding nitrous or something toward the end.

The sooner you seat the rings the better, do not wait. If you haven't seated the rings in yet, do it the next drive, then change it to whatever you are running in the long term.

Don't use modern emissions oil in it, get some racing oil or something. I use Mobil 1 15W-50, or Lucas Racing Full Synthetic. Don't use Mobil 1 5W-30 or something, its not the same additives as the 15W-50.

If you want some 10W-30 or 40 depending on what they set your bearing clearance at, I can send you some Lucas Racing Full Synthetic if you need.

Being in TX I would just run the 50 wait and see if your oil pressure isn't too high.

Is this the m1 15w-50 you are talking about?

Robot or human?

www.walmart.com

I don't know why that link autopopulated as robot or human but it's just a link to walmart.com and their Mobil 1 15w-50. On sale for $25/5qts so if that's it then I'm buying it.

 

[76zimmer]

Like K&N air filters, I dont buy all the marketing hype of the premium oils, expensive doesn’t always mean better….heres why..

 

[Babaganoosh]

Like K&N air filters, I dont buy all the marketing hype of the premium oils, expensive doesn’t always mean better….heres why..

This will be my afternoon video to watch to pass some time.

 

[centexk5]

Like K&N air filters, I dont buy all the marketing hype of the premium oils, expensive doesn’t always mean better….heres why..

I don't disagree. I've just been using mobil1 since I was 15 so why bother switching now.

 

[folkenheath]

Is this the m1 15w-50 you are talking about?

Robot or human?

www.walmart.com

I don't know why that link autopopulated as robot or human but it's just a link to walmart.com and their Mobil 1 15w-50. On sale for $25/5qts so if that's it then I'm buying it.

Yes, it has over 50% higher zinc and phosphorous content than the lower vicsosity Mobil 1 versions....shown here...(notice the application and industry approvals say nothing about conserving and meeting modern specs. It just says, "racing and flat tappet applications".



If you really want the best Mobil 1 available for a high performance engine that also doesn't meet emissions certifications get the racing versions...



However, that stuff is so expensive at that point I go for the Lucas Racing oil.

The 15W-50 is at a price point where I'll run it in a high performance street strip ride and I did in my 489 in my truck.

However, with my 632 it couldn't cut it on hot days and would drop pressure when the Lucas racing would hold pressure higher at the same heat after load when the oil would go over 270 degrees. The Lucas Racing Full Synthetic ran cooler and better pressure under the same conditions.

I think for your engine, I would run the 15W-50 as its not too expensive and works very well.

 

[Wes Harden]

nvm

 

[Fastduramax]

Best of all worlds especially for a non daily driver or something that is stored over a Northeast winter !