Do some roller piston rings. Less friction, more power, less break in.
I was discussing the flat tappet engine issues with my local engine builder and how the new crop of lifters are garbage and he told me he never has any issues but he breaks them in with lighter springs.Since you mentioned that it's a roller cam, just run whatever you plan on running in it. No need for fancy high zinc anything in that application. You're not breaking the cam in so to the guy that said "driven", he's right. Start it and drive it. Change it a little earlier than you would normally and then resume normal intervals after that.
I have broken in plenty of cams back in the day with cheap dinosaur-bone oil with no attention paid to zinc what so ever. I think the issue lies in the higher spring pressure applications that tend to be in your performance builds. I was/am poor so all my builds are definitely not performance lol.
Even so, for a roller motor, you're good with anything. Synthetic, conventional, whatever.

You know me everything I have now is roller cam, I am just learning more stuffMost of the manufacturers won't warranty the tappet cam if you don't.
However, changing valve springs back and forth cost time and money, that could be spent on a roller cam....![]()
This is a bigger benefit than the reduced friction people talk about. For crying out loud, we run big transmissions, T-cases, and axles, giant tires and heavy trucks. We don't have the right to say that friction matters.Once you go roller...you can get way more valve lift with less duration than a flat tappet.
What’s the word on the first oil change with this stuff? Wait 400 miles or change it sooner?The Driven BR40 is what the engine manufacturer recommended for the break-in on my hydraulic roller cam 350. https://drivenracingoil.com/i-30497750-br40-conventional-10w-40-break-in-oil.html
Why don't you get on the freeway half an hour each way 80 miles in one day.Sounds reasonable.
I need to drive more. 20 miles a week is going to take a while to break in.
Parts of it. There’s a couple around here I may hit up this weekend.yeah and you still need to do some ring seating, gradual accel-cost-accel, I thought Texas was full of back roads ?
Why?Get that crap out of it YESTERDAY dump in whatever you plan on using, I'm an Amsoil guy, and drive it like you stole it !!!
I feel all of this painMuch as I would love to have that much spare time in my life, it’s not a thing. Kids, sports, chores, work, doesn’t leave a lot of time for random hour long trips.
BP Driven is widely acclaimed as one of the best products on the market at the moment, including by lake speed JrParts of it. There’s a couple around here I may hit up this weekend.
Why?
Actually I change it quite fast, basically after one dyno session or a maybe 1 or 2 quick street drives assuming you put some cylinder pressure in there to seat in the rings and didn't baby it. Sometimes I change it before the dyno session is even over if I will be adding nitrous or something toward the end.What’s the word on the first oil change with this stuff? Wait 400 miles or change it sooner?