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Broken cross pin retaining bolt (12 Bolt Axle). Looking for advice.

ktmoutfront said:
I went to the local pull n pay and bought a carrier and spider gears for 60 dollars yesterday. Was able to slap some shims that I had to get the gears correct, used my ring gear. Done.
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I habe to be able to get that pin out before I can do anything... I was just trying to pull the axle shafts when the locking bolt sheared off and I can't get the c clips off of the shafts unless that pinion shaft is removed.

The complete axle I picked up from my buddy two days ago for $50 is good to go.

Onlt reason I was pulling the shafts is because the brakes on the "bad" axle were 100% better that what was on the "good" axle...
 
handloader90 said:
Onlt reason I was pulling the shafts is because the brakes on the "bad" axle were 100% better that what was on the "good" axle...
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So you spent who knows how many hours and $33+ on a tool you're only going to use once in order to salvage some used brake parts that you probably could have bought new for not much more? :doah: :what: :dunno:
 
rampage said:
So you spent who knows how many hours and $33+ on a tool you're only going to use once in order to salvage some used brake parts that you probably could have bought new for not much more? :doah: :what: :dunno:
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The brakes on the good axle are complete trash.

The brakes on the bad axle are good.

The reason this all happened is cause I grenaded the 12 bolt that was under the truck.

Picked up another 12 bolt for $50. Sheared one of the bleeder screws off in the backing plate.

Broke the lock bolt for the cross pin in the good axle while trying to pull the shafts.

$80 plus gear oil and RTV which I already have is a fair price to me to get my truck up and going again.

New brakes is something that I may do (priced them out on rockauto and it would cost me about $100 to get all new brakes in the 12 bolt) but at this point I need to get the truck moved from where it's at... it's parked somewhere where it can get ticketed, it's on jackstands at that.

I have a few tools that I've only used once so far, some cost me way more than $30, so I'll eat that loss.
 
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rampage said:
So you spent who knows how many hours and $33+ on a tool you're only going to use once in order to salvage some used brake parts that you probably could have bought new for not much more? :doah: :what: :dunno:
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Funny thing is I have a set of 1 tons sitting in the garage that I could throw under there and problem permanently solved.

I need to do some kingpin work on the 60 though and the 14 bolt has welded spider gears and disc brakes so I'd need a disc/disc adjustable prop valve and I don't think I'd like a 1200 mile tow out to CO with a welded rear end.
 
When I was fighting this I was using an air hammer...wasn't concerned about the carrier as I was installing a posi and a set of 4.10s. I used double hearing protection and it was still loud as hell.

fwiw, that was my first time doing a gear swap and it actually came out fine. My old boss is a monster mud truck racer & coached me through it.
 
I removed these broken pins for years when I worked in SoCal.

I perfected my technique and told it to just about every Auto-Club mechanic I knew and they used it successfully too as long as I knew they were alive, anyway.

Even with a lot of local mechanics knowing how to do it after I taught them - it seemed that I had at least two or three a month come into my shop.
  • No damage to the carrier.
  • No busted knuckles trying to gorilla it out.
  • It doesn't use gravity, picks, magnets, BFHs.
  • After removal MY way, you'll need a need cross shaft and a new retaining bolt/pin - that's all.
  • I do it IN the vehicle or on the bench.
I'm surprised that no-one else knows the way to do it.

Simple.
 
I had this once: I used an electric drill and lined up with the lock bolt and drilled down the length of the cross shaft through the carrier. The carrier was trashed but it was the quickest way to get the bolt removed (I had a new posi so loosing the oem posi carrier was not an issue).
 
Not sure if there's room to, but maybe you can cut that crossshaft in half. May be able to replace it cheap enough and make it easier to get it out.
 
JoshHefnerX said:
Not sure if there's room to, but maybe you can cut that crossshaft in half. May be able to replace it cheap enough and make it easier to get it out.
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The cross shaft is hardened to a bearing-steel hardness. A saw or drill just dances on it.

Same for the retaining pin/bolt. It too is hardened.

Cobalt drills won't even do it - REAL cobalt drills, not Harbor Fright ones!
 
I own said kit.
Used it twice, knowing that it works and is there saves a lot of stress.
 
30$ spent on the right tool is priceless as you're finding out.
Sometimes the plan you have at the start takes a bad turn and you have to evaluate the situation as it unfolds.
I've been in your situation more than once and it's part of wrenching.
Good luck
 
handloader90 said:
Trying to pull the axle shafts on a 12 bolt.

Axle is sitting in the bed of my truck.

Started backing the cross pin retaining bolt out of the carrier, came out easy enough but it snapped off where the bolt necks down and turns into a smooth pin.

I believe there may be one thread left on the part of the bolt that is stuck in the carrier.

I used an extremely strong magnet to see if it would pull it out and that didn't work, tried to see if I could catch a pick on a possible burr and turn it out that way... didn't work either.

I commenced to smashing the cross pin with a large punch and sledge hammer in hopes that it would break that bolt all to sh*t and then I would be able to take the broken bits out after the cross pin was out.

Truck is located in a gravel parking lot, no electricity around, can't move the axle or the truck. So hand tools only.

Should I just keep banging on this thing? Seems like that bolt would give at some point.

I have a fresh crosspin and retainer bolt to install afterwards so damage to the cross pin is not an issue.
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STOP beating on it. What you need is this tool that a friend of mine (R.I.P. Chuck) designed and patented years ago. http://www.fabbriassociates.com/
 
4X4HIGH said:
STOP beating on it. What you need is this tool that a friend of mine (R.I.P. Chuck) designed and patented years ago. http://www.fabbriassociates.com/
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page late . I already linked it to him in this thread and he ordered it up . . . glad were showing him and others the correct tool .

it blows my mind what some have said to try in here . . . just order the tool and play it safe . then you wont be doing a gear setup you don't wana do worst case . .
 
going to order one just to have it laying around for that time down road when you do need it!
 
Have you ever heard of reverse drill bits? Center punch the screw preferably and go slow with the bit. It will drill the pin if you buy the good bit. I've seen a mechanic buddy do it several times over the years. They seem to break for no reason.

Hope it works, Paul
 
A GM service tech I know told me he has had to use the hammer & punch method many times at his job at a dealership to get the cross shaft out when those bolts break..they do resort to drilling too,but only if the faster hammer method appears it isn't going to work..

He aid the reason I "chunked" the diff carrier that time was probably because I hit the wrong end of the cross shaft--you want to push "in" on the pin end,drive it in towards the spider gears from the bolt side "in",there is more meat on the carrier in there and is less likely to fracture or break a chunk out--doing so in the opposite direction ,the remains of the bolt only has about 1/2" of carrier ,to the outer edge of it ,and it can take a hunk out or crack it much easier..

I cringe every time I've had to remove those bolts..
been pretty lucky,only had 2 that were broke and they came out fairly easy..

One truck my friend had to take apart at his shop to replace wheel bearings evidently had been "beaten out" before,there was NO bolt,but some damage around the carrier where the bolt hole is,and someone had driven in a "roll pin" in its place..

It took him several hours to get it removed,he had to resort to brazing a washer to the end of the roll pin that luckily was sticking out about 3/16".and was then able to pry it out enough to grab it with side cutters and extract it..
He informed the customer of what he found,along with some wear on the ring & pinion and some metal filings in the gear lube--the customer said "just put it back together with another roll pin,and I'll plan on getting a used rear axle from a salvage yard.."...

About 3 years later the truck was towed in on a ramp truck,the rear diff cover had a gash in it that looked like a shaved vagina..:eek:...rear wheels locked up going 60+ mph on the highway..customer noted the diff was "howling and grinding" for a few months before it let go..:crazy:..
 
Maybe I was vague or I don't understand what you mean. The reverse drill bit should start to drill and get to a point where it grabs the broken piece and backs it out. It does seem that GM would have different or better grade steel, especially on something that is that hard to correct. They do seem to break for no reason. Paul
 
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