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budget beater - . . . HOLMES 220 single line boom wrecker install starting ..

Picked up some hardware today to go with the bushings . Got my new frt shocks for stock height dug out along with stock rears .

Then i painted up the blasted rear K30 shackle hangers and support brackets .

Thinking i might blast this out Wednesday if i am felling lucky .

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Today is the day .

Old lift springs 42 lbs each .
New stock style HD upgrade 58 lbs each .
Just about 2.5 inch less free arch .

Few pics .

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Those should do nicely with the plow. I bet a bit rough on a stock vehicle with a small block and no extra weight up front.
 
these HD extra leaf fronts 4 total are good for around 900 lbs extra and the plow is 840-850 lbs for the 9ft wide . its a k30 so yes its a little more weight than the k10 or k20 series . the fisher plow frame of a few hundred pounds is always on the truck year round . but summer time i swap the lift part out for a push bumper unit to drop some weight and loose the lights and lift arm .

had a friend stop over and had to make him a custom mount bracket for the house remodel he is doing for a clear span open beam setup so that took 1hr . then lunch . then another friend stopped to chit chat . so i am down 2hr's . . . but i am in no rush . front shocks and tighten bolts and were good up there . next is rear hanger swap . pull the pinion angle shims . swap shocks . and pull timbren bump stop spacers and should be good to go .
 
Front is done minus 6 bolts to tighten with the weight on it . Rear half apart . Just need to pull the pinion angle shims off the spring packs . Pop the stock shackle hangers on the frame and bolt the rear up . Need to reset the timbren bump stop gap and its ready to drop and check height . If good front to back lock the rear in and road test .

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Almost done . Rear shocks need figured iut yet since i have a DIY4X gooseneck hide-a-ball hitch uner the box . And c/k-30 trucks have the shocks inside the frame .
 
so i had to chop about 1/2" off each side of my trailer hitch middle mount tube and re-cap it . this combo cleared the home brew flip brackets but NOT the stock gm brackets .

then i got it back to as close to stock i could with parts on hand . i had some 5" shackles i used in the rear that is 1" longer than stock @ 4" so the back is down 1/2" from stock . then the extra leaf up front in the stock style springs made it a tad nose high . so to help fix this i already had these out knowing i might use them . i had some cut off rear spring overloads that were 3/4" thick i used like a zero rate to the spring pack with a longer center pin . this got me right were it needed to be .

the rear will come up a 1/2 to 3/4 inch when i pull the ballast weight from the bed for plowing snow . its around 450 lbs back there .

i got shocks on the rear but i need to redo the mounts positions later . i need to get more compression travel . i am at 3" now so hardly any .

overall i am happy with the outcome . its lower by the numbers . even tho the totals dont sound like much i feel it already in the in/out of the truck and how it rides . its firmer in the front but still soft with the tappered leaf front design . the rear will be better when i dial in the timbren bump stops . there just kissing now on road bumps and it feels kind of weird .

front wheel arch dropped - 3/4"
rear wheel arch dropped - 2"
tool box top dropped - 1.5"
trailer hitch tube bottom dropped - 2.5"
new springs on the scale were 58lbs each
old ? brand lift springs were 42lbs each .

i am also going to round up some stock shackles for the rear . this will help height look / ride quality / shock length problem / bump stop setting position .

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if you have a hard time finding the shackles I think I have some K30 shackles.
 
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I just went outside and took these. I may have some loose.
 
4.0 " eye to eye is stock . some upgrade to min of 4.5" eye to eye .

but i would like 4.0 to get me as close to stock .
 
Wow this old girl been left alone a bit .

Had a fuel leak last time i drove it . So today i pulled it in the shop and found it .

Only way this could happen were its at is a little critter chewing the plastic line . Atleast it was the return line on the efi setup .

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Fuel line fixed and no leaks .

Felt real weird driving it today after few months of driving the 3500-HD truck .

Dug out the plows yesterday to be ready for when the snow comes .

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The body isback in the shop . Got the pto shaft and support bracket dug out . The 2 original pillow block bearings were bad . No play but GROWLING when you spun the shaft . Found 2 nos bearings online compleete cheeper than changing just the bearings out of these housings .

Next i had to change the pto yoke that connects to the trans / t-case pto output as my soon to be ordered is 1-1/4" now over the old stuff the truck it was on last had . Local driveshaft shop had the $25.00 yoke i needed in stock .

Next i noticed the slip yoke was not in phase with the other end . Come to find out it was this way a LOOONG time . Old truck was 2 section shaft for length . So i looked more and found 1 yoke was made different than the others. So i swapped the 1 i needed over to make it correct .

Once the unit is on the truck i will shorted the 1 shaft from 36" down to around 12" long . But need it all in first tomake sure .

The pto shaft is SOLID HEX and beefy as hell . The old carrier bearing for the 2 piece shaft is even hex in the middle .

Hope its a few more steps and ready to install .

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