I plan to get about 625 hp and close to 680 tq. out of my 454 build, naturally aspirated, thats not hard to do. about 10:1 compression on 91 octane pump gas. will be running Al. heads too.
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.
Building a 500hp 454
- Thread starter mrk5
- Start date
wasted wages
1 ton status
did you mean .010 over ?
I wouldn't bore a 454 more than .060 over without having the block sonic tested first...
big blocks don't have the thickest cylinder walls stock..
Now if you plan on using an aftermarket block like a Brodix or Dart, then .125 over isn't a problem.. of course if you're going aftermarket, then hell, go for a 4.5 or 5.0 inch cylinder spaced block and build a 632 ci
stump puller !
Slippery slopes them BBC's are!!
Or just dial up Sonny's and have them put one of these in a crate and ship it to you!
https://www.sonnysracingengines.com/engines/drag-racing-engines/sar-1005-2100-hp
THE FIRST V8 ENGINE OVER 1000 CU. IN. ENGINE HERE AT SONNY'S! THIS MONSTER MAKES OVER 2100 HP,and over 1550 Ft. Lbs of Torque, AND YES IT'S NATURALLY ASPIRATED !!!! NICKNAMED " THE GODFATHER" Because this is the Big Daddy of all engines, and who else could produce such an Amazing Engine, nobody but Sonny Leonard Himself!
2100+
1550
Complete and Dyno Tested
Price: $109,000.00
79rustyk10
3/4 ton status
Yes sir, I fully meant .100 over. Of course the block will be sonic tested, and possibly a sleeve if need be.
Found plenty of stuff in this thread:
http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...-building-a-peanut-port-big-block-combo.2900/
http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...-building-a-peanut-port-big-block-combo.2900/
wasted wages
1 ton status
A sleeve will make the cylinder walls that much thinner,, and then boring the sleeve back out to .100 will leave the sleeve paper thin.. really not the best thing for ring sealing, overheating etc..
If you were going to fill the block with concrete, then yeah...that works...
but to sink $$$ into a motor just for the sake of going .100 over when .060 will be fine, and have a failure...I think it's asking for trouble.
If you were going to fill the block with concrete, then yeah...that works...
but to sink $$$ into a motor just for the sake of going .100 over when .060 will be fine, and have a failure...I think it's asking for trouble.
Link didn't work, but I have read a little about building a block with peanut port heads.
In order to get compression up, won't I need to make changes to the bottom end?
I was thinking this morning about the question of building for torque. I feel like the 380 or so torques it has now is sufficient, it's the horsepower that's lacking. I think anything is increasing the horsepower is going to increase the torque plenty enough. I'm not really thinking about doing this to fill a practical need (although it would be nice to have an easier time pulling the camper), I just want to have a badass motor once in my life.
Now to completely go against what I was just saying about building for torque, I do admit the idea of a stroker motor would be cool. I saw the crank @beags86 posted in another engine build discussion and it wasn't that expensive. I was kinda thinking maybe that would work if I could find a set of better factory heads and a roller cam and that would make some good power without getting super expensive.
- Joined
- Jan 23, 2016
- Posts
- 244
- Reaction score
- 166
Aluminum heads dissipate more heat than iron. An iron head, identical to aluminum in every other respect will make more power. But with higher compression, the iron head will usually start to encounter detonation issues
beags86
Eastbound and Down
I think you could get a L29. @ZooMad75 still has one under a bench??
Stroke it to 489, bump the compression, port & polish the heads, and slap a new cam in and make 500 hp.
Or I would take your block, bore and stroke to 496, put some good aluminum oval ports, with a roller cam and you would be set to.
Not sure what you want to spend. The
l29 would probably be cheaper. I can pm you a guy in Arvada that will do a good job on a port and Polish, he did the heads on my 406.
beags86
Eastbound and Down
I'm not sure what you are telling me? I asked you to tell me how an aluminum head will cost power.
- Joined
- Jan 23, 2016
- Posts
- 244
- Reaction score
- 166
If you have low compression, the aluminum head will dissipate MORE heat. Heat is power. In a low compression motor iron head will make more power. Its simple physics. Most of the time it doesnt come up, because usually we build for more power, and use more compression. The aluminum head and its dissipation of heat is what allows the higher compression. So in this particular engine, at 7.9:1 cr, an aluminum head will COST power
beags86
Eastbound and Down
I disagree with that. While the cooling effect will help with high heat for compression is won't hurt power in a lower compression engine.
Heat isn't power. Power is compression, fuel, air and spark. Heat is a byproduct of the engine running. And everything you do to an engines, cooling system is fighting engine heat
I do have a L29 currently with no plans. Might be willing to part with it as it will help fund the 8.1/4500 swap. @mrk5 if you are inclined, let me know.
- Joined
- Jan 23, 2016
- Posts
- 244
- Reaction score
- 166
We can disagree. I dont have a problem with that at all. I think its good to share our knowledge/ opinions
I have had a mildly built 454 with large oval port heads and peanut port heads. The large oval port head engine could cruise down the Interstate at 80-90 MPH all day long easily with my foot barely into the throttle, but the peanut port engine could only do about 70-75 MPH steadily with my foot half way into the throttle. The peanut port 454 engine can certainly tow though because I out towed a couple of my friends diesel trucks with it. I was always having to pull over, and wait for them to catch up to me.
Just watched a head video about BBC heads and differences. Just as you said the peanut port heads are a great tow rock crawler head. Low rpm torque head. Oval ports cover the broadest range. Best overall head. Rectangle ports are for drag racing and boats. High reving. Not great down low. But about 4500/5K rpm and they start to move. thats where a peanut port is already falling flat. An oval will rull and flow better but not a great deal more. Porting on an oval port goes a long way.
Does it have the EFI too?
Interesting thought, can you put a stroker crank in an L29?
beags86
Eastbound and Down
Yes they make gen vi stroker cranks.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sca-1-91805bi/make/chevrolet
I would stick to Holley EFI to control it. I don't think the gm EFI ecu would play nice with a worked 489.
I am guessing they have a system that would use a Holly ecu with the factory gm intake and injectors, etc, etc. But I'm not 100% sure.
If you really wanted to get into the build ,Holley can build you a custom harness/ecu that would control the factory gm hard parts.
If I gotta drop $1500 to stroke it, it would nice to keep the EFI I have now.
beags86
Eastbound and Down
Technically 800....
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sca-445425l/make/chevrolet
You EFI you have now would support your end goals....
