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Building the Ultimate GM vehicle

miniwally

miniwally

St. Javier
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So,
Last year for the Ultimate Adventure Petersons built the Ultimate K-10.
There seemed to be a good deal of dissatisfaction with their direction of build (cost). They used a bunch of cool dude parts that we would not use if it was us building the vehicle.
With all of that in mind what would you guys think would be a good vehicle for Ultimate Adventure.
You have a decent selection of vehicles to choose from and they all need tons of work to make into the reliable good looking vehicle that needs to appear sometime in the summer somewhere in the United states.
So what is it,
Clean classy suburban, regular cab truck, crewcab truck etc.

The possibility of this truck getting torn up is very high and it still needs to be able to drive some of the toughest trails in the country as well as drive at least 1,000 miles on the highway. Haul all of the camping gear for a couple of guys for a week as well as spares ect.

What would you build if you had the chance to do it??
 
I already have :D
P1010004_001.sized.jpg

Plenty of room to carry stuff too:
hwy2.jpg

Rockin ina First Gen!
YYYYYYYYEEEEEEEEEEEHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHAAAAAAAAAAAAAA!!
 
If you could pick & choose...


platform = 87 swb K10 (tbi for dependability)

Ideally a 4spd truck so you could benefit from the low crawl ratio if a Doubler was not in the budget.
 
Burt would yuo be willing to see every panel dented after 1 week of wheeling?
Your blazer is to pretty for that IMO, but a vehicle that is already not in the best of shape in the first gen realm might be possible.

A doubler would probably fit the budget.
The standards like a front 60 locked up, and 14 bolt rear locked up are givens.

Remember you have a budget, not a big one but also not a small one either.
The need to use factory parts that are in good condition is a must to stay in the budget. However everything should be gone through to verify reliabilty.
 
old chevy... like late 60s or early 70s. Regular cab, custom flatbed. 454/400/203/205/60/14. Doesn't get any more all-american old-school beefy than that. :thumb:

j
 
miniwally said:
So,
Last year for the Ultimate Adventure Petersons built the Ultimate K-10.
There seemed to be a good deal of dissatisfaction with their direction of build (cost). They used a bunch of cool dude parts that we would not use if it was us building the vehicle.
With all of that in mind what would you guys think would be a good vehicle for Ultimate Adventure.
You have a decent selection of vehicles to choose from and they all need tons of work to make into the reliable good looking vehicle that needs to appear sometime in the summer somewhere in the United states.
So what is it,
Clean classy suburban, regular cab truck, crewcab truck etc.

The possibility of this truck getting torn up is very high and it still needs to be able to drive some of the toughest trails in the country as well as drive at least 1,000 miles on the highway. Haul all of the camping gear for a couple of guys for a week as well as spares ect.

What would you build if you had the chance to do it??
Click to expand...


military k30

single cab, 454, 4 speed and a non slip yoke version 205

already has 4.56 and one tons, detroits for reliability.,frame is a little bigger, enclosed cab for the difference in enviroment or climate

no crew cab because I dont want to hear 4 passengers whine about some wierd smell for 1000 miles:D and to keep the wheel base reasonable., bashed dooors dont always open anyways.

tires, 37's or 40 inch mtr

2 spares, full bed rack, equiped with a rear winch, small hoist, roll out/slide out tool tray box, on board air, on board welder, built, but not overbuilt bumpers, with a good approach. long travel rear shocks, in a non factory location to keep them from rippin off.

as for the bed, tastfully tapered and bobed for departure,, front stays full size while the fangs on the fenders get hacked off. Interior gets spray in bed liner and nasty carpet that would retain moisture gets yanked.

6 inch lift, interior cage tied to rear bed cage and rack set up, seats are from a 99 burb or gm truck, buckets with a aftemarket stealth consol with a amped 10 inch sub..

and actual floor monted cuo holders for my 64 oz thirst buster:D
 
Any longbox pickup. Leave the huge wheelbase and build a flat bed, thats only if you want to haul two poeple though. I think you would need about 8" of lift to help with the breakover angles and such I would also run 44s on it once again because it is such a long vehicle. I would also want a 4 speed.
 
miniwally said:
Burt would yuo be willing to see every panel dented after 1 week of wheeling?
Your blazer is to pretty for that IMO, but a vehicle that is already not in the best of shape in the first gen realm might be possible.

A doubler would probably fit the budget.
The standards like a front 60 locked up, and 14 bolt rear locked up are givens.

Remember you have a budget, not a big one but also not a small one either.
The need to use factory parts that are in good condition is a must to stay in the budget. However everything should be gone through to verify reliabilty.
Click to expand...
You forget I got mad driving skills so the sheet metal damage would be minimal :eek1: :rolleyes: :p: :D hehehe
Over the last 13yrs I have replaced just about every bolt or part..So "gone thru" ya did that!
In my mind my rig is perrrrfect :bow:
Prolly a good thing I am the only one in my mind...well except for that one visitor......:doah:
heheheee
Too much coffee today :D

Anyway I agree it must have this:
454/465/203/205/60/14.
 
nvrenuf said:
If you could pick & choose...


platform = 87 swb K10 (tbi for dependability)

Ideally a 4spd truck so you could benefit from the low crawl ratio if a Doubler was not in the budget.
Click to expand...

I agree 87 Shortbox. TBI mild 350 not major power = less breakage:wink1: . Maybe a flatbed tapered for tree/rock clearance. 4spd with a 241 would give a decent crawl ratio and be OK on the hiway. You could clock the 241 up and get some belly clearance and protect it from the rocks. SYE would be a must too. Prolly 4.56 in the axles with ~ 38-42 Iroks. 52's front and some 56's or 63's with a flip in the rear. 14B dana 60 with detroits or even weld the rear and save some $$. Couple of stout bumpers good sliders..maybe boatside it 6" or so a cage a winch and wheel it.:D
 
I like what they built last year, but just do the same basic thing with less blingy$$$ parts. Maybe start out with a later model with TBI 350.

- Get rid of the $4,000 BFG Krawler and Hutchinson beadlock set and replace it with something "normal" like steel beadlocks and Swampers for half the price.

- Get rid of the Ramjet 350 and do a mild build on the stock TBI 350 for half the price.

- Get rid of the custom Dana 60 front and replace with a junkyard Chevy D60 front. Use a Detroit instead of the ARB, and use Yukon shafts and Longfield joints versus the Superiors and CTMS.........again you are probably looking at half the price or more.

- Get rid of the rear ARB and replace with a Detroit.
 
supersize75k5 said:
military k30

single cab, 454, 4 speed and a non slip yoke version 205

already has 4.56 and one tons, detroits for reliability.,frame is a little bigger, enclosed cab for the difference in enviroment or climate

no crew cab because I dont want to hear 4 passengers whine about some wierd smell for 1000 miles:D and to keep the wheel base reasonable., bashed dooors dont always open anyways.

tires, 37's or 40 inch mtr

2 spares, full bed rack, equiped with a rear winch, small hoist, roll out/slide out tool tray box, on board air, on board welder, built, but not overbuilt bumpers, with a good approach. long travel rear shocks, in a non factory location to keep them from rippin off.

as for the bed, tastfully tapered and bobed for departure,, front stays full size while the fangs on the fenders get hacked off. Interior gets spray in bed liner and nasty carpet that would retain moisture gets yanked.

6 inch lift, interior cage tied to rear bed cage and rack set up, seats are from a 99 burb or gm truck, buckets with a aftemarket stealth consol with a amped 10 inch sub..

and actual floor monted cuo holders for my 64 oz thirst buster:D
Click to expand...

Wow, this guy hit the nail on the head. Pretty much my intended build. I'd want EFI (Vortec) and slushbox though. CUCV = no emissions crap to deal with too. I wanna put a couple benches in the back to haul people sometimes too. Exo cage instead of interior = no broken glass to replace if ya roll it.
 
-standard cab SWB
-tapered front
-bobbed and tapered bed or tube bed
-Junkyard D60, 5.13's, Detroit, Yukon shafts, Longfield joints
-Junkyard 14BFF, 5.13's, Detroit, ATOR/WMS shafts (if they're still made)
-15" steel single locks wrapped with some sort of rubber that's around 40" tall
-TBI 350 or 454
-NV4500 or TH400
-Doubler or Klune in front of a 205 (Of course it'll be a doubler)
-Front and rear winches
-Tube front and rear bumper
-52's or 56's in front, 56's + shackle flip in the rear, around 4" of lift
-Interior cage with a few connections to the outer tubework
-OBA, OB welder
-Bedliner for carpet
-Aftermarket suspension seats
 
So a quick summary so far:

The bulk of the responses say
Regular cab with internal cage.
Tube or bobed bed
Some tube work on the outside for the best body protection to tube work ratio
Good reliable TBI motor (454 would be cool)
14B/60 locked to each their own on locker type
doubler if budget allows if not than 241 with SYE
Transmission is individual choice. Iwould use a TH350 or 400


Knowing that the body is going to get bashed only the best of the body panels that could be found at the local salvage yard would be used. Would you even worry about fixing the minor dents and dings or just do the $100 make it all the same color paint job.
 
Sounds like the 'gist of everything that was said. I wouldn't give a damn about the body. Bondo the rust holes and do the $100 Maco special. Dents and dings stay, the body is going to get trashed anyways.
 
What about a crew cab that is kinda already started along the way but is just to long.
A little frame cutting and bed bob later and you got a party barge that could go well.
Ultimate Adventure has not had a long wheelbase in a few years.
 
i say a late 80's k5 with TBI and a 241. put some cucv axles w/ some 40's and some 52/56 spings. throw a locker in the front and make a cage, then go beat the hell out of it. see, im already started...
DSC00980.sized.jpg
 
Last edited:
78' K-30 reg cab Banks'd 6.5 (Cummins 610 would be preferable but to much weight),NV4500 203/205, 5.13 detroit front , 5.13 spool rear disc braked In cab cage .56" 4" lift springs front ,DIY shackle flip rear 6'' shackles 56's backwords with spring hangers moved forward 3" remove bed cut off excess frame build a bedcage/toolboxholder/30gallon fuelcell/spares mount that ties in to cab cage and 3x6x3/8" rockers and doubles as a shockmount for rear shocks, Hydro assist with crossover and hysteer, winch "frenched"into lower part of core support,tube doors,Cutting brakes,Mico lock,Yukon shaft in front,electric fan,rocklights, 1410 HAD, yellowtop optima's.........Oh yeah and some Horre lights for the cab Ohalmost forgot 47 ltb's on miltary 12 bolt H-1 wheels (recenterd of course)
 
I would say
Shortbox
400tbi
th400
lomax205 or np241sye
tube bed
beadlocked 17s with 37 inch Maxxis Trepadors
Full hydro steering
60-14 chromo shafts CTMs 4.88's Detroits Crane diff covers
internal cage boatsided
 
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