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Building the Ultimate M1008 *Beadlocked 42's w/ pic's**

I am looking about $175 for a new tie rod to go into the stock location. This will be a lot of money for a temporary fix :( What are my options with a new oil pan? I don't think the aftermarket suipport for the 6.2L is very high in this area. Also, would you guys recommend a zero rate or adding the overload back into the pack to get the lift up a bit more?
 
well when most ppl put the stock 52's, they say ~4" lift with the overload right? not having the overload could be the problem.

putting the overload back in would be the easiest thing to try first.
 
My vote would be run the overload. You never know, maybe you'll be happy with it.

The other thought I has the same as yours, zero-rate.

I would think you're on your own with the oil pan, no aftermarket. Couldn't you go to the boneyard for a tie rod? I suppose it would need to be a D60 specific part. Obviously you don't have the original I guess?
 
I could get a stocker, but I would rather have a beefy tie rod. The thing that really sucks is I have these fancy high steer arms with no high steer :(
 
Why so much for a new tie-rod? You should just need a new piece of DOM threaded and you can use the ends on your short rod. I was thinkin more like $75 for a new one without ends. I think I paid 135 or so for mine with ends from Sky. Another option is trading with somebody who needs a highsteer tie-rod, but has a standard length one.
 
3 on the tree said:
Why not just notch the pan???? Wouldn't cost you that much capacity.
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Has anyone notched an oil pan before? What is involved? Just cut the pan where I need to and weld in some plate? I have ffriends that can help with this while I am gone in Sept. As of right now I am going to focus on the rear suspension and hopefully get it done this weekend. Then the other stuff can be addressed.
 
well depending on how the arms are, the hi-steer tie rod might be long enough to work decently in the stock location. most likely not. you could get a tie-rod ment for a 10b and put it on in the stock location. i know the d60 tie rod is shorter, but it will work, thats what i have on mine. i bought a beefy tie-rod for my 10b then found a d60. it works and it is perfectly aligned. eventually when i go hi-steer i will cut the tube down and re-tap it
 
Well here is the kick in the pants. When I shortened my high steer tie rod I accidentally cut the left hand threaded end and could not find a machine shop with that tap. I figured she's a trail rig only so I had them tap it RH and was going to deal with it. So now it is pretty much useless. The killer is I sold my 350 already...lol. Oh well, I guess I will have to figure something out.
 
here is a picture of a stock 10b length tie-rod on the d60. it is do-able. hope u can see it decently in this pic

DSCN0493.JPG
 
I haven't done it, but I stayed at a Holiday Inn Express last night!

I saw them do it on a car show call Rags to Riches. They had to notch the oil pan on a hemi they were shoehorning into a small body car and they had retroed a rack and pinion setup.

It was pretty much in the exact same location as your issue. They cut out the offending area of the pan and TIG welded in a inverse radiused piece to clear. Make sure it doesn't interfere with the oil pickup.

You can order lengths of 1.5" 1/4" wall DOM from Poison Spider Customs for $8.81/ft. Plus they have the weld in threaded ends.
 
Id cut out your oil pan to clear the rod and flex, avoiding the pickup tube. Then weld in some sheet metal. Doesnt have to be pretty.
 
If you still haven't gotten something figured out a couple weeks before the bash, send me a PM, I'll take my ORD tie rod and ends off and ship it to you, then you can just ship the assembly back whenever you get your hi-steer problems figured out.
 
damn jeff...bummer.

we can figure it out though...

first, definatly put the overload back in, or even cut the ends off and put it back in like a zero rate...

or like someone said above, you can order DOM and tube inserts from Poison spyder, thats where i got mine. figure 4 ft of dom 40 bucks, 12 bucks each for inserts, 15 bucks shipping.. youre looking at around 80 bucks. you already have tie rod ends and welding is free:D

then sell it later when you figure something else out. well have to look at the oil pan on saturday..see how much of a PITA it will be to notch it.
 
Stick the overload back in. I run an overload on mine in the front and it flexes just fine. I think it also gives me better traction control.
 
Who says that tie rod needs to be in a straight line? I'd mod the tie rod, or build a modded tie rod...

The 6.2 has a larger capacity oil pan (7 qts with filter) and there is a reason for that. I wouldn't mess with the oil pan myself, unless you can add the capacity somewhere else on the pan, like making it wider.

Rene
 
I'd notch the pan and add a zero rate with the front axle moved 1 inch further forward.
 
tRustyK5 said:
Who says that tie rod needs to be in a straight line? I'd mod the tie rod, or build a modded tie rod...

The 6.2 has a larger capacity oil pan (7 qts with filter) and there is a reason for that. I wouldn't mess with the oil pan myself, unless you can add the capacity somewhere else on the pan, like making it wider.

Rene
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I was thinking about that too. Making something like a "C" shape around the oil pan. The "C" would need to be long enough to clear the pan when turning. But then I think he would need a long tie rod.

I know guys run bent draglinks a lot on crossover steering.
 
tRustyK5 said:
Who says that tie rod needs to be in a straight line? I'd mod the tie rod, or build a modded tie rod...

The 6.2 has a larger capacity oil pan (7 qts with filter) and there is a reason for that. I wouldn't mess with the oil pan myself, unless you can add the capacity somewhere else on the pan, like making it wider.

Rene
Click to expand...

That is a damn good idea, how about cutting the ends at 45 degrees angles and welding in some triangle plates to stiffen it up.......
 
stallion85 said:
That is a damn good idea, how about cutting the ends at 45 degrees angles and welding in some triangle plates to stiffen it up.......
Click to expand...

If it were me I'd bend it before I cut and welded it. Just make sure to dunk it afterwards or throw it in a snow bank. :haha: (inside joke)
 
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