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Burnt burb resurrection (It's mine again!)
- Thread starter shady
- Start date
Have you changed the ignition module in the distributor yet? classic symptoms of an ignition module, may not hurt to change the coil with it. The module can be replaced without removing the distributor.
The ESC module won't usually cause stalling issues, it just takes the signal from the knock sensor, interprets it then sends a digital signal to the ECM.
The ESC module won't usually cause stalling issues, it just takes the signal from the knock sensor, interprets it then sends a digital signal to the ECM.
Check for injector pulse next then. Need to try and narrow things down a little, sensors rarely cause a TBI system to shut down instantly. The only thing I can imagine is the pick up coil in the distributor bad, or losing power on the pink wires that run to the coil,
ECM etc.
ECM etc.
Burnt burb resurrection: (ECM didnt fix it)
Could be I am on my phone.
Second one is electronic spark control (esc) and the last is the map and iac for sure
Could be I am on my phone.
Second one is electronic spark control (esc) and the last is the map and iac for sure
Injectors pulse nice and even all the way till the motor stops turning. and ive bypassed the coil pink and ran it from the batt direct before...
4xcrazy
3/4 ton status
Long post, but I don't remember you replying to a suggestion I mentioned, have you checked that connector from the coil to the distributor? there are two plugs going into the coil pack connector.
yeah.. I took it off and to work where I hooked up 2 ohm meters and wiggled it all over, bending it in a bunch of places and stuff... stayed the same on both wires the whole time
Simple part to replace, connectors can get hot and open up.
The problem is definitely between the coil and module, if anything else was a problem you wouldn't have injector pulse. Don't be surprised if one or more of your new parts is bad too. I've been in the car business for 25 years and rarely does a day go by that I don't get a part that's DOA.
The problem is definitely between the coil and module, if anything else was a problem you wouldn't have injector pulse. Don't be surprised if one or more of your new parts is bad too. I've been in the car business for 25 years and rarely does a day go by that I don't get a part that's DOA.
y5mgisi
1 ton status
Pickup in the distributor could do it. They are only like $8.
whole new dizzy
The wires can be OK with no real voltage or heat in them!..often "bad" wires dont show up until they have had current passing thru them for awhile..
I've seen a Dodge Dakota run perfectly ,then shut off as if the ignition was turned off--it'd still crank over,but had no spark..
A friend pulled his hair out trying to figure out the problem--he has friends at junkyards who'd give him parts to "test" and see if it made any difference,to no avail..tried another coil,distributor,and several sensors,even the ECM,nothing changed..it would run great for 2-5 minutes,then shut off--almost like it had a timer in the ignition circuit..
Finally,one morning he decided to hook up a light bulb to the 12V power wire to the ignition coil...it started and ran,and as soon as it decided to stall,the bulb went out too...no power getting to the coil!..
He unwrapped the wiring harness ,and found a spot where it passes behind the water pump,he discovered if he wiggled the wires when the truck did run,it would sputter and stall out!---the harness showed no sign of damage either...the coil power wire had a spot in it that felt "empty" when he ran his fingernails along the wire--it was also hot there too!...he shaved the insualtion off,and only a few strands of wire were there,the spot also had white corrosion powder there--the strands of wire looked black like carbon too..evidently they would pass enough current to get it started,but after a few minutes,the strands heated up,,and broke the connection..almost like a circut breaker...
He snipped the wire back about 6" from that spot,and spliced a new hunk in to the ignition coil...that fixed it,it has been running great for several months now...the owner estimates he'd have spent 300+ bucks on the parts alone he "borrowed" from the junkyard..and two other garages sent him away no better off,after charging him almost 200 bucks to "diagnose" it..
I have seen a similar Dakota that refused to start on a cold morning--if you left the truck sitting until noon or so in the sun,it would then fire up and run great,till the next cold start,it wouldn't start if it was below 35 degrees or so..
My friend did the usual tests,then decided it must be the ECM,which is mounted on the inner fender on those trucks--he's seen the printed circut boards corrode and cause problems like that before..
The next cold morning at his shop,he used his heat gun to warm up the ECM after it refused to start,and it fired right off...
--the owner didn't have the cash to buy a rebuilt one,and no junkyards had the right ECM in stock,so he left a 100 watt droplight against the ECM overnight!--it worked to get it started in the mornings,but if the weather stayed cold and cloudy while he was working,he had to walk or beg for a ride home...he found a used ECM at a junkyard and that seems to have cured it..
wiring all seems perfect..... nothing I can find anywhere.... wiggled a bunch all the way down em looking for broken spots.... the only thing I can find is the black w/white and a tan that run down the back of the block but Don't seem to go far.... cant find what they go to.... they are sorta kinked n oily and possibly bare in one spot but I can see back there yet... also found out that one of my tranny bolts came out and was hanging up in my tranny lines..... then I dropped and lost it trying to put it back in lol... gonna have to check the rest.
those 2 wires do not go into the loom to the starter
![DSCF3371[1].JPG](https://ck5.com/forums/data/attachments/143/143781-a0e6cf51df2240474b96fec2a750520b.jpg "DSCF3371[1].JPG")
![DSCF3372[1].JPG](https://ck5.com/forums/data/attachments/143/143782-532f17f614693eb696eaa6318082fc4d.jpg "DSCF3372[1].JPG")
those 2 wires do not go into the loom to the starter
The second picture is a ground. I believe tan with black stripe is the main ecm ground.
that one needs redone.... maybe a winner... it was pinched and is real thin in one spot... doesn't FEEL broken really but does feel too flimsy... after I fix that im putting it back together and see.... nothing else looks bad anywhere. Now on top of it all after changing all the sensors and ecm and everything I now have a service light on and it runs rough when it runs
I asked my friend who had the Dodge Dakota wiring issues on customers trucks about your problem--he said it might be a bad ECM ground,he was not sure on your type of truck if GM used the brass multiple ground "bus bar" in the kick panel like they did on many 90's and newer cars..
He just fixed a Buick that had the same symptoms as yours,he said all the wires and the bus bar itself were all green and some of the wires were rotted right off,and just touching!..someone else had already dropped the tank,replaced the fuel pump & sending unit and the ECM had been swapped with a junkyard one,with no change..car would start up,run normally,sometimes for a whole day,other times a few minutes--when you went to roll down a window (power),or turned on the headlamps,it sometimes died and refused to fire again right away..
He told me about a 2004 Chevy "cube van" that came in on a wrecker,that stalled in traffic and refused to start--no spark or injector pulse..took days of chasing wires,but he finally found a harness that ran from the engine to the cab,that was laying right against the upper control arm,and it sawed into the harness ,and cut three wires...soon as they were re-connected,it fired right up!--he also had an older G series van that had the ECM under the drivers seat,and the found the wires coming thru the floor had chafed of the floor metal,where the grommet had crumbled away...spent a few days chasing that one down too!..
His co-worker has a 2000 Chevy 4x4 that refused to fire up on mornings below 40 degrees without a long period of cranking,and playing with the gas pedal--once you got it to run,it ran fine all day,and would re-start as long as it was still warm--it didn't stall though...he finally ran into a tech at a dealership who told him to replace part of the ignition switch harness,that GM had a lot of troubles with that were temprature related..he bought the harness there for 28 bucks,installed it,and it fired up instantly all winter..
He just fixed a Buick that had the same symptoms as yours,he said all the wires and the bus bar itself were all green and some of the wires were rotted right off,and just touching!..someone else had already dropped the tank,replaced the fuel pump & sending unit and the ECM had been swapped with a junkyard one,with no change..car would start up,run normally,sometimes for a whole day,other times a few minutes--when you went to roll down a window (power),or turned on the headlamps,it sometimes died and refused to fire again right away..
He told me about a 2004 Chevy "cube van" that came in on a wrecker,that stalled in traffic and refused to start--no spark or injector pulse..took days of chasing wires,but he finally found a harness that ran from the engine to the cab,that was laying right against the upper control arm,and it sawed into the harness ,and cut three wires...soon as they were re-connected,it fired right up!--he also had an older G series van that had the ECM under the drivers seat,and the found the wires coming thru the floor had chafed of the floor metal,where the grommet had crumbled away...spent a few days chasing that one down too!..
His co-worker has a 2000 Chevy 4x4 that refused to fire up on mornings below 40 degrees without a long period of cranking,and playing with the gas pedal--once you got it to run,it ran fine all day,and would re-start as long as it was still warm--it didn't stall though...he finally ran into a tech at a dealership who told him to replace part of the ignition switch harness,that GM had a lot of troubles with that were temprature related..he bought the harness there for 28 bucks,installed it,and it fired up instantly all winter..
I relanded my possibly broken grounds.... changed my motor ground from the batt. to a batt-frame-engine type. was just landed on the alt bracket for ever now lol... changed a few more small sensors so now I guess I cross my fingers and put it all back together and see
I hope
I hope
