yes he changed them shortly after i was finding his bad welding and calling him out . they might be nice but the way he talked with me on the phone and tried to pay me off and cover it up and be quiet thats were i drew the line .
CK5
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C30 6.0, is NOW a burb swap, thread.
- Thread starter shady
- Start date
No welds now. All laser cut and bent.
For some reason I don't like the big azz slots though. People seem to be ok with them. But that part looks weak to me.
Like if your bolts to the engine landed in the middle of the slots... ?
For some reason I don't like the big azz slots though. People seem to be ok with them. But that part looks weak to me.
Like if your bolts to the engine landed in the middle of the slots... ?
Not saying you didn't have a bad experience. But mine was fine. If I had the later version he obviously addressed issues brought to his attention. Had I had any issues I would have pointed them out. But mine were flawless.
I'm just voicing my own experience and opinion. Sorry it doesn't go with your outlook. But it's obvious he's made improvements in his product since your experience. You certainly don't have to use his parts but it also don't mean prospective customers can't hear results from different sources good or bad. They can make the decision based on what they found.
The reason I like the idea of the diy4x adapter plates is they are 3/8, line it up where the factory bell housing lands, have holes instead of slots, and I happen to have a set of energy suspension mounts with the clam shells laying around lol...... Oh, and $30 cheaper 
.
Plus after hanging out with Kurt on a few occasions, I like the idea of throwing business his way. Good dude.
.Plus after hanging out with Kurt on a few occasions, I like the idea of throwing business his way. Good dude.
I looked up the speed engineering, and they're actually cheaper....
Not long tube like I want. But I may be able to deal with that lol.
https://www.speed-engineering.com/l...niversal-swap-conversion-ls1-ls2-ls3-ls6.html
These are the ones I went with. Long tubes and they clear the shackles with plenty of room...not an issue on 2wd though. They have 1 7/8" version too.
For cooling, I'm kicking around the idea of just swapping radiators with my other crew cab. It has a thick, 2 row aluminum core Spectra with the trans cooler in it. But it's a manual.
Then get a separate oil cooler.
Cheapest option, but more work.
Or,
I did find a radiator for a 2005 2500hd that has oil cooler, trans cooler, and the steam port line for $200. More expensive... But all inclusive.
I guess it comes down to how much chit I can sell or how much OT I can get in at work.
If you know anyone looking for cheap tons and or a set of 37" iroks let me know lol.
I actually looked at fastenal shipping from Iowa to one of the western states, can't remember which, and it was $250 to ship them
. There will be an ad up on here soon lol.
The tires are crazy expensive to ship.
Then get a separate oil cooler.
Cheapest option, but more work.
Or,
I did find a radiator for a 2005 2500hd that has oil cooler, trans cooler, and the steam port line for $200. More expensive... But all inclusive.
I guess it comes down to how much chit I can sell or how much OT I can get in at work.
If you know anyone looking for cheap tons and or a set of 37" iroks let me know lol.
I actually looked at fastenal shipping from Iowa to one of the western states, can't remember which, and it was $250 to ship them
. There will be an ad up on here soon lol.The tires are crazy expensive to ship.
For the steam line, you don't have to go right to the radiator with it. I used a 3/8" hose off of the steam pipe on the engine and put a metal "T" fitting on one of the heater hoses just before the water pump. Never had a problem with it. Worked fine.
Got started on pulling the harness and hoses today.
There's a couple plugs I'll have to identify yet. But except at the starter, it's all off.
I sold my engine stand with the last engine I sold, so I'll have to get one or make one up quick. Been debating making one for a while. I have all the materials, but just never did.
Here's 2 hrs of slow messing with it
There's a couple plugs I'll have to identify yet. But except at the starter, it's all off.
I sold my engine stand with the last engine I sold, so I'll have to get one or make one up quick. Been debating making one for a while. I have all the materials, but just never did.
Here's 2 hrs of slow messing with it
Yes, you would have a vss signal that comes off the ecm. The aftermarket gauges may take that signal as it is or it might be converted to a different pulse per mile for the input. It might need a converter box of some type. Look at the gauges you might use for what input they take.
If you find a factory electric speedo cluster, make sure you get the DRAC module from the same truck. The electric speedo clusters didn't get a direct signal from the ecm like the later ones did. The signal went from the VSS to the DRAC and it got split out from there to the cluster, ecm, cruise and ABS.
beags86
Eastbound and Down
I guess there is an engine under all that junk. Who would have guessed!
There's actually quite a bit i think I can use. Like GOOD radiator hoses (think they'll reach even) and I think the oil cooler lines are good too. Having the fuse box will be cool. But I gotta do some research. I might try and use it for a few things.
. Top surface of it is about 1/8 below the head surface.
