No drill or easy out .
Scuff the broken nub and plug weld the nut on . Let cool . Heat area around and turn out .
Scuff the broken nub and plug weld the nut on . Let cool . Heat area around and turn out .
CK5
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C30 6.0, is NOW a burb swap, thread.
- Thread starter shady
- Start date
Gotten them 4 thread in before .
There deep holes your good .
I have even sacrificed a few threads in the head before with a die grinder . . I am in the rust & corrosion belt more than you . So i see a LOT worse.
beags86
Eastbound and Down
Don't worry about the aluminum. Worse case is that it will mar up a bit. But alot of weld shops use aluminum scraps for poor man's weld backer.
Make sure you have your wrench ready, you want to try to back it out asap. The heat from the weld is your friend.
Make sure you have your wrench ready, you want to try to back it out asap. The heat from the weld is your friend.
Started on a mobile stand tonight. I got the rear mount farther back than I wanted. But I'll fix it for final mounting.
Then I can get it out and wrench on it easier. And it's stable.
When this jobs done, it'll get shortened so that it'll be a block stand for the 454 it's replacing.
Then I can get it out and wrench on it easier. And it's stable.
When this jobs done, it'll get shortened so that it'll be a block stand for the 454 it's replacing.
If can't get the bolt out, perfect time to swap to some 706 heads. Bumps the compression some, but cheap bolt on power. I'm picking up a 6.0 this morning, been doing some reading (alot), kinda nervous bout the wiring. But lots of vids on it, just need to spend some time when no one is around....
Just bolting on 706s in place of the 317s makes it nearly 11:1. I'm sure there's a cam that can bring the dynamic down enough to run pump gas. But I don't know... 
.
Been reading and watching vids alot myself lol. Almost an obsession at this point
.
I used summit's compression calculator to see what the diff in them 2 heads would be.
This long block will stay mostly as is until I'm ready to go down the rabbit hole lol.
Later in this engines future I'd like to rebuild it, and convert it to a 6.2 with a .065 over bore, and different heads.
That's after this is in and running, and my other 2 projects get much farther along lol. IF it gets done even.
.Been reading and watching vids alot myself lol. Almost an obsession at this point
.I used summit's compression calculator to see what the diff in them 2 heads would be.
This long block will stay mostly as is until I'm ready to go down the rabbit hole lol.
Later in this engines future I'd like to rebuild it, and convert it to a 6.2 with a .065 over bore, and different heads.
That's after this is in and running, and my other 2 projects get much farther along lol. IF it gets done even.
Where did you see it raised it that much?? I've been watching alot as well, didnt even get motor yet n already planned out what I want to do, one was swapping to the 706s, local yard has prolly a dozen of em.
I did the summit racing compression calculator. The heads have a full 10cc combustion chamber difference. When I plugged in the numbers it came out to like a full 1.4-1.5 increase. I think stock LQ4 is 9.3.... that would make it 10.7-10.8.
I didn't have exact factory gasket thickness to plug in, or exact piston-deck height. But changing the 10cc made that much difference either way..
Maybe it'd be a little lower. But I don't want to be tied to premium gas so want to stay under 10:1 anyway.
I didn't have exact factory gasket thickness to plug in, or exact piston-deck height. But changing the 10cc made that much difference either way.
.Maybe it'd be a little lower. But I don't want to be tied to premium gas so want to stay under 10:1 anyway.
19Tim69
1/2 ton status
I modified my stock engine cross member and used stock motor mounts with the $60 realignment plates.
I spent big $$ for my headers. But my passenger stock one would have worked as is...
Going with a Lokar Shifters has a variety that may fit the your needs
I looked up all the specs, if I did it right, was about 10.5:1 with .050" head gasket. 055" drops it to 10.38. I ran 87 octane on a TBI with a 10:1 406, if that archaic computer can adjust, don't see why a newer one couldn't....
The L92 6.2 in my old denali was 10.5:1 and it would ping with 87. Had to run 91.
That's one of the reasons I said IF I ever convert this lol. If I do I'll try and get dished pistons to keep it under 10:1, but close..
That's one of the reasons I said IF I ever convert this lol. If I do I'll try and get dished pistons to keep it under 10:1, but close..
On another note... In order to make my engine cradle/cart/stand thing, work with normal chevy engine mounts...... I'll have to get the mounts I need before I ever take my BB out of the truck.
That leaves me short on parts..
So I may end of with the dirty dingos, even though I'm not sold on them.
I need this part of the mounts.
Bottom pic is what I do have.
Every place I've found them wants about $30 each. And it seems like maybe there's 2 different styles. But all I can find are SMALL block ones.
So given the dingos have that part built in and are $110. And Kurt's plates are $75, plus $60 for these,... Add shipping (dingos I can get from Amazon), and the dingos end up much cheaper and simpler... Still just don't like the slot design deal though.
If they were being mounted to a flat surface it wouldn't bother me. But being mounted to raised bumps with a small surface ,then tightening down to them. It seems like the small area could work its way into the groove enough to loosen up over time.
Maybe I'm being stupid and paranoid, wouldn't be the first time, but I like things to be over engineered.
That leaves me short on parts.
.So I may end of with the dirty dingos, even though I'm not sold on them.
I need this part of the mounts.
Bottom pic is what I do have.
Every place I've found them wants about $30 each. And it seems like maybe there's 2 different styles. But all I can find are SMALL block ones.
So given the dingos have that part built in and are $110. And Kurt's plates are $75, plus $60 for these,... Add shipping (dingos I can get from Amazon), and the dingos end up much cheaper and simpler... Still just don't like the slot design deal though.
If they were being mounted to a flat surface it wouldn't bother me. But being mounted to raised bumps with a small surface ,then tightening down to them. It seems like the small area could work its way into the groove enough to loosen up over time.
Maybe I'm being stupid and paranoid, wouldn't be the first time, but I like things to be over engineered.
You are being paranoid. My dingo mounts never moved. I'm pretty sure I was rough on it too. A little blue loctite on the bolts and they aren't going anywhere. Keep in mind the trans mount is part of the system. So as long as you don't tear the trans mount the engine isn't going to move front to back. It's a good reason why they don't move once bolted in and everything is locked down.On another note... In order to make my engine cradle/cart/stand thing, work with normal chevy engine mounts...... I'll have to get the mounts I need before I ever take my BB out of the truck.
That leaves me short on parts.
So I may end of with the dirty dingos, even though I'm not sold on them.
I need this part of the mounts.
Bottom pic is what I do have.
Every place I've found them wants about $30 each. And it seems like maybe there's 2 different styles. But all I can find are SMALL block ones.
So given the dingos have that part built in and are $110. And Kurt's plates are $75, plus $60 for these,... Add shipping (dingos I can get from Amazon), and the dingos end up much cheaper and simpler... Still just don't like the slot design deal though.
If they were being mounted to a flat surface it wouldn't bother me. But being mounted to raised bumps with a small surface ,then tightening down to them. It seems like the small area could work its way into the groove enough to loosen up over time.
Maybe I'm being stupid and paranoid, wouldn't be the first time, but I like things to be over engineered.
View attachment 362624
View attachment 362625
The stock engine side mounts can be picked up at any local boneyard if they have squares or GMT400 trucks in them. Problem is you got to get them off the block with the engine in the truck and that's a pain. There IS a difference between small block and big block mounts for sure. Bit my ass pretty hard dropping the 8.1 in with small block versions. But like you said if you go with the dingo's the factory engine side brackets are eliminated.
I may end up with em. But if I do they'll be modified lol. I'll put thick washers on and after I get it set where I want I'll weld the washers on the mounts. That will be enough to alleviate my concerns.
I've decided that this is getting a cam swap before it goes in. Just a no heads pulled type thing.
I want to go with one of these two. They are basically the next two steps above stock. They clearly typo'd the rpm range of the 8712. The next size up starts at 1800 rpm. And the size down at 750..... So I'm sure 2000 is wrong. maybe supposed to be 1200.
I want to go with one of these two. They are basically the next two steps above stock. They clearly typo'd the rpm range of the 8712. The next size up starts at 1800 rpm. And the size down at 750..... So I'm sure 2000 is wrong.
maybe supposed to be 1200.
