You're saying the dealership reuses stock TTY head bolts?
CK5
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C30 6.0, is NOW a burb swap, thread.
- Thread starter shady
- Start date
You're saying the dealership reuses stock TTY head bolts?
beags86
Eastbound and Down
Doesn't always work, sometimes the suction of the Hub on the converter does allow it to free.
Every auto trans/engine I ever pulled apart the TC stayed on the flex plate and just pulled out of the pump n trans.
That can work, but it's also a good way to break things. The converter sometimes sticks.
Leaving the TC attached to the tranny also eliminates that 2% chance that the converter damages the input seal on its way out. Easier to control that separation when the tranny is on the bench.
seen a lot these days on newer stuff . the dowel pins are SO tight fitting they rust / bi-metal corrosion together GOOD-N-TIGHT .
beags86
Eastbound and Down
Got a dead blow with a 4 foot handle?Removing TC bolts didn't help
Removing TC bolts didn't help
Put some heat on the pins? The aluminum will swell faster than the steel & iron do.
beags86
Eastbound and Down
Hmmm.... its a 80s chevy? Aka, the switch hasn't worked for 25 plus years...What's wrong with your transfer switch?
Those things didn't even work right when they were new...
So...replace the switch and live happily ever after. There's no benefit to redesigning the system into a transfer-pump system. Just fix the system as it is and be done with it.
Eh?
Threw heat to the alignment pin area and a little bit of Kroil,. Then got it to come apart fitfully.
I now have one pin in the engine and one in the trans lol
Truthfully I've never even tried the transfer switch lol. Last one I had i tried and couldn't get it to switch back, and it didn't seem to like the side it was on, so it became bypassed.
This one has always ran good so I never forked with it. I just fill up every 100 miles
This one has always ran good so I never forked with it. I just fill up every 100 miles
No. If a head comes off for any reason (most common is munched camshafts lately) it's getting new bolts. My point was that stock trucks that have not been apart or repaired using new stock bolts do not have failures due to the head bolts.
Put another way, if my shop is responsible for the quality of the repair it's getting new head bolts. It's direct from the service manual that the old bolts are NOT to be reused.
So...replace the switch and live happily ever after. There's no benefit to redesigning the system into a transfer-pump system. Just fix the system as it is and be done with it.
Eh?
Since I'm doing this swap, if I leave the stock system, I'll need 2 tanks,senders, and pumps lol. If the one is just a transfer tank. I can leave it as is and put a $25 frame mount electric pump between them to pump it over to the new baffled tank and bigger better pump.
I've seen the front pump bushing come out with the torque converter on many vehicles we didn't bother to unbolt the converter when pulling the engine at the junkyard--most of them 700r4's..several otherwise good automatics had to be either scrapped ,or we'd only sell them to a customer if they replaced the pump,otherwise "no warranty"..
At the least,the front pump seal would get destroyed and have to be replaced ,then you risk a leak later,if the snout on the converter had a wear groove from the old seal..
At the least,the front pump seal would get destroyed and have to be replaced ,then you risk a leak later,if the snout on the converter had a wear groove from the old seal..
Even replacing the seal is a gamble sometimes..
I've pulled and swapped engines without disturbing the position of the converter and never had a front pump seal leak--others I was too anal and replaced them on, and had a annoying minor drip from that day on..the converter snout looked perfect too--I think aftermarket seals may not "ride" on the same spot on the snout and it ends up creating a leak..(or the front pump bushing was worn enough to let the converter put side load on the seal)..
Unless we knew the transmission was a desirable good one in a junk vehicle,we didn't always unbolt the converter,especially in winter when we wanted it out FAST to avoid frostbite..some came out fine with no damage,others not so much..
Of course using the loader was a crude method,but the only way to extract an engine in a junker parked an acre away from the shop,that had too many others piled around it to dig out and bring inside to dismantle..some engines that were seized up,pulling them out with the converter attached was the only option..kind of hard to remove the bolts that are at the 12 o'clock position when you cant rotate the crank!.(even with a torch!).
I've pulled and swapped engines without disturbing the position of the converter and never had a front pump seal leak--others I was too anal and replaced them on, and had a annoying minor drip from that day on..the converter snout looked perfect too--I think aftermarket seals may not "ride" on the same spot on the snout and it ends up creating a leak..(or the front pump bushing was worn enough to let the converter put side load on the seal)..
Unless we knew the transmission was a desirable good one in a junk vehicle,we didn't always unbolt the converter,especially in winter when we wanted it out FAST to avoid frostbite..some came out fine with no damage,others not so much..
Of course using the loader was a crude method,but the only way to extract an engine in a junker parked an acre away from the shop,that had too many others piled around it to dig out and bring inside to dismantle..some engines that were seized up,pulling them out with the converter attached was the only option..kind of hard to remove the bolts that are at the 12 o'clock position when you cant rotate the crank!.(even with a torch!).
