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Can I HOT WIRE My Power Windows??? ('84 Sub 6.2 4x4)

Messing with the fuses wont change whether your windows come on from ign or not.

Your best bet would be to find your wires from your windows in the door and trace them back to the ign source. Remove that wire and replace it with a switch, inline fuse, and constant hot.

And this might not be as easy as it sounds since power windows alternate which wire is hot and which wire is ground to give you up or down.
 
You should be able to run a designated or splice in a hot wire from the battery or fuse box to the positive wire to the window circuit. Stomis had a good point on flipping the polarity of the wire but this is commonly do in the window switch itself. If you can get your hands on a wire diagram it will help. I think the circuit goes from fuse box to drivers door then to the pasenger door. Reason for this is because you usually have a switch on the drivers side to operate the other windows. You biggest challenge is going to be finding the hot wire for the window circuit.
 
Easy! Find the pink ignition wire that powers your windows, and pull it from the fuse block. Shave the connector on it so it will fit into the opening on the back of your orange power lock wire feed and plug it in -- Done! To help you in your search for the correct wires, they will be located up at the top right hand side of the fuse block just to the right of those two silver circuit breakers. They are there for the power locks and power windows.

I did the same thing to my diesel truck so I wouldn't have to run my fuel pump without actually moving any fuel or cycling the glow plugs.
 
Yes, it's very easy. Sometimes there are empty slots in the fuse block that can be taken advantage of. You could also pull the power window fuse and jumper an in-line fuse from an "always hot" slot to where the fuse used to be. You just get an in-line fuse holder and put little spade connectors on each end.
 
Succesful, But Draining Battery...

I was wondering why my alt belt was squealing every morning... Then I noticed that my fan was running with the key off. If I move the lever to "off", it stops the fan, but somehow the window wire I jumped is running the fan with the key OFF!!!!

(I'ts draining my batts evey nite, and not sure why the belt would squeal, as it's tite, and I think it's a new belt)
 
I think your back feeding the whole fuse box. Cut the pink wire from the fuse box then plug it in with the orange wire. I'm assuming the pink and orange wires are the right ones you need. May be best to pull the drivers door panel and check the hot wire going to the power window switch to make sure it is the pink wire.
 
Wondering if your fan is set up like mine. I know on the 73-78 models the fan runs constantly when you turn the ing. switch even when the fan switch is in the off position. Used to have a 73 C10 w/o air that did not even have an off option and my 75 K5 runs (you can hear it) even when the switch is off. If you are back feeding the box then it would still run ing. on or off.
 
If you are back feeding fuse box, it could be anything draining the battery. You need to remove the jumper and just cut that pink wire from the fuse box and connect it to the orange wire.
 
Let me know what makes this work. I have a diesel also and would like to be able to power the windows with out burning the glow plugs as well.
 
One note, an alternator takes mechanical motion and converts it to electric current.
The more current you draw, the more mechanical power it takes to turn the alternator.
Your belt squealing was almost certainly because the battery was drawing a lot more current to charge it up because it was almost dead.

If your belt is not loose, its probably glazed or has gotten hard. Either way, its slipping under load.
 
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