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Carb troubles ????

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brgrenier

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Just bought a used Edelbrock 1405 with the electric choke installed. I had to turn the choke cap clockwise (rich) a good amount to close the choke valve to where its almost closed. I had to do this in order for my truck to not hesitate when I accelerate from a dead stop.
Is this normal? Am I doing this wrong? Will turning the choke that rich affect how my truck starts in the morning? (cold)
My truck runs awesome when warmed up..full of power!!!!

Or could it be the accelerator pump? The rod is on the center hole. Could it be getting too much fuel when i mash the pedal?

thanks
 
brgrenier said:
Just bought a used Edelbrock 1405 with the electric choke installed. I had to turn the choke cap clockwise (rich) a good amount to close the choke valve to where its almost closed. I had to do this in order for my truck to not hesitate when I accelerate from a dead stop.
Is this normal? Am I doing this wrong? Will turning the choke that rich affect how my truck starts in the morning? (cold)
My truck runs awesome when warmed up..full of power!!!!

Or could it be the accelerator pump? The rod is on the center hole. Could it be getting too much fuel when i mash the pedal?

thanks
Click to expand...

Closing it should make it start better cold, thats what the purpose of a closed choke is, then the coil opens up as it runs and opens the choke up. I just got one for my 1406, the coil in mine went bad, i try to run it as lean as possible. But it may start funny when you drive it a while and let it sit for a little bit it may start funny if it wants the choke closed when the engines still warm....
 
This morning I started my truck, and it acted like there wasnt even a e-choke on the carb!!! But once it warms up it runs great, I still have some tuning to do, and check the timing. I just ordered a choke cap and a accelerator pump. Should be here in acouple of days.
 
brgrenier said:
This morning I started my truck, and it acted like there wasnt even a e-choke on the carb!!! But once it warms up it runs great, I still have some tuning to do, and check the timing. I just ordered a choke cap and a accelerator pump. Should be here in acouple of days.
Click to expand...

Just loosen the 3 screws on the choke just enough that you can tun it but wont move on its own and start it cold and turn it till it sounds right, then let it warm up and take it for a drive. Thats what i did and it works pretty good now. A million times better than the manual choke i threw in when mine went out lol.
 
Perhaps some sort of wierd adjusting may be required, since isn't the 1405 a manual choke originally? I'm not sure about that part. Read the manual, it's downloadable from Edelbrock. It SHOULD only have to be turned rich enough so the choke plate is closed when dead cold. Turning it richer will force more pressure on the bi-metal coil so it takes longer for for the electricity to 'unspring' (that a word?) the coil/choke plate open. If you're having hard start problems, and turning the choke plate richer isn't helping, you may have a bad choke cover/coil. Could be something else entirely.

Also, you're describing two different things. Hard starts. Hesitation when driving, yet running great when fully warmed. Is the hesitation only when driving before fully warmed up? If so, the choke COULD have something to do with the hesitation before fully warm, if the choke plate isn't open all the way (because it's not to operating temp) then you're bogging the engine down with extra fuel with the choke plate still partly closed, getting an incorrect A/F mixture. Althrough with linkage, it should make the choke plate open all the way when driving. Which sounds strange I know, because that is what the choke does, but not for driving, engine under load. Like I said, could be something else entirely.

What carb did you have before? A stock Q-jet with everything attached? There's a lot of things that go with cold starting just in the carb/emisisons/drivability alone. Stock, you have heat risers to warm incomming air, Computer controlled carb, double pumper carb? A lot of that stuff that is usually tossed with a 80s smog motor has a lot to do with starting and warming up your motor. Where as an older pre-smog era engine set up, has the same stuff, but it's all manual, heat risers, exhaust passages in your intake to warm the carburetor, choke with vacuum breaks. IMO, slapping on a Edelbrock usually gives you a lot of problems. Hard starts being one of them.

I think I just confused myself.

I'd say, get your choke/warm up/hard start condition figured out first, then see where your hesitation problem lies. Fixed, or still unresolved, go from there.
 
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brgrenier said:
I think the coil went bad on mine!
Click to expand...

Well take the two wires and a 12V test gauge and see if you have 12volts going to it, make sure the connections look good, sand them if they are corroded. If theirs 12v their (you can use a cheap $5 tester from auto zone, no need for an expensive one) then the coil is bad. I ordered mine from advanced auto online, nobody has them in stores, for like $33. Auto zone wanted like $50 and they are normally cheaper. But yah mine works so much better now. Dont go the manual if you dont have to, such a pain in the cold. Took me on average 8 times to start in the morning. Good thing i had just gotten a new starter lol, its broke in now
 
Another method of testing the bi-metal coil itself I've found handy is here. He explains it for Q-jets, but the principles and theorys are the same.
 
When my truck is fully warmed up I have to turn the choke cap to the right in order to almost close the choke on top of the carb. I have to do this so it doesn't hesitate from a stop. It will smoke the tires like crazy. But like I said before it will run like crap when cold.
 
if i understand right, you have the choke blade closed when the truck is warmed up? (choke blade should be fully open when truck is warmed up.) if so, your carb is running too lean. closing the choke flap richens the mixture.
 
4x4orbust said:
if i understand right, you have the choke blade closed when the truck is warmed up? (choke blade should be fully open when truck is warmed up.) if so, your carb is running too lean. closing the choke flap richens the mixture.
Click to expand...

sounds like the carbs all messed up....
 
brgrenier said:
Yeah... When fully warmed up the blade is maybe open 1/8 to 3/16. When its fully open and I floor it . It bogs bad !
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I bet your running too lean. Maybe open the jets on the carb a little more and see. If its calling for less air, its prolly not getting enough gas....
 
then quit playing with the choke, thats not your problem. have you set the idle screws on the carb yet?
 
I adjusted the two set screws on the front of the carb. - turned them to the right until RPM dropped then turned them 2 turns to the left.
 
brgrenier said:
I adjusted the two set screws on the front of the carb. - turned them to the right until RPM dropped then turned them 2 turns to the left.
Click to expand...

I turned mine all the way in and 2 1/4 to 2.5 turns out.
 
brgrenier said:
I adjusted the two set screws on the front of the carb. - turned them to the right until RPM dropped then turned them 2 turns to the left.
Click to expand...

Those are your idle A/F mixture. It'll correct only the idle. Driving, it has no effect. Those are your jets. If it is a lean symptom while driving, you either have clogged jets and passages or, not enough fuel pressure, or float..or... coulds be's are endless. Might be in need of a rebuild. BTW - two full turns back? Should be go lean till rpms drop, then back 1/4-1/2 turn.
Deuling said:
I turned mine all the way in and 2 1/4 to 2.5 turns out.
Click to expand...
That's a good starting point if you don't know where you are. (The Q-jet way, sure Edelbrock is close enough) Then adjust by vacuum gauge to achieve highest vacuum. The goal of adjusting the idle-mixture screws is to achieve the highest possible idle vacuum (manifold, not ported) at a set idle speed.


OR

Vacuum leaks. If the condition gets better closing the choke plate, check for vacuum leaks. To rule out the carb (for now), while the truck is sitting there, push on the throttle, hold the choke plate open and peer down the bores. if it's squirting pretty good, I'd assume vacuum leaks. If it's drizzling out, or comming out unequally between the two primary bores, I'd assume jets/passages/float. If the stream is good, check for vacuum leaks.
 
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