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Carb troubles ????

That's a good starting point if you don't know where you are. (The Q-jet way, sure Edelbrock is close enough) Then adjust by vacuum gauge to achieve highest vacuum. The goal of adjusting the idle-mixture screws is to achieve the highest possible idle vacuum (manifold, not ported) at a set idle speed.

How does one check the vacuum? where can i find the gauge and how much???
 
i got a vacuum gauge at the local advanced auto for about $30. when i was checking for vacuum leaks, i plugged in the gauge to a manifold vacuum, then started disconnecting lines and plugging the port on the carb untill the vacuum gauge changed. when it does, you found your leak.

otherwise, your carb may be in need of a rebuild, or the jet sizes are too small as was already mentioned.
 
I looked at that, let it warm up, open the choke valve and gave it throttle. Fuel was squirting good.

I will check for vacuum leaks tomorrow.

thanks
 
I looked at that, let it warm up, open the choke valve and gave it throttle. Fuel was squirting good.

I will check for vacuum leaks tomorrow.

thanks

I just bought ten feet of vac line the other day for like 5 bucks. Just make sure to take a piece off to bring in so you get the right size stuff.
 
How does one check the vacuum? where can i find the gauge and how much???

Vacuum gauges range in price, I bought a cheapo for around $20. Can get them anywhere, parts stores, harbor freight, sears. It's a gauge, with a hose, kits usually come with a 'T', unplug any mannifold vacuum port, hook up your 'T'. Run the engine, should be around 15-22 inHg, something like that, just off the top of my head. They come instructions too.

Should be easy...Theres only 2 vacuum lines to the carb. PVC and carb lines.

True, for the Edlebrock, should be three up front, PVC, ported to the distributor, and mannifold for trans or cruise or whatever, and the one in the back for brake booster. But he also needs to check the carb base, intake manifold at the heads, and the fitting on the back, that is usually a 'T' for the climate control, and something else. Also the PVC, line, and breather for the other valve cover too, probably doesn't have the cannister hooked up anymore.
 
The three ports in front of the carb starting from left to right. The first one is capped off. Second one goes to the PVC and the third goes to the distributor . The one in the back of the carb is capped. I have no emissions what so ever. Tomorrow I'm goin to do a leak test and check the carb to manifold for leaks. It might the crappy spacer I'm runnin.
 
Wait a sec, i have the 3 on the front. The left one on mine is going to the distributor, middle to the PCV, and the one on the right is capped off... Which one shoul be runnin to the dist, the left or right??? Maybe thats why im gettin 8 mpg lol.... Or maybe thats why yours is runnin weird, try switchin the one to the distributor... idk lol.
 
From left to right looking at it (passenger to driver) First one is ported vacuum, it's only job is for the distributor. (I'm not going to start a ported/mannifold vacuum for distributor discussion here.) Middle is larger, PCV. Right is mannifold vacuum, you can hook your distributor, or anything you need full mannifold vacuum, such as transmission, cruise control. The rear port is for your brake booster.
 
I have no clue !!! By the way I'm from Michigan. I'm hopefully movin back there in the spring. Sterling Heights area !

Cool, I'm in the Muskegon fremont area in west Michigan. About an hour , maybe from silver lake. Ahh yah lol
 
From left to right looking at it (passenger to driver) First one is ported vacuum, it's only job is for the distributor. (I'm not going to start a ported/mannifold vacuum for distributor discussion here.) Middle is larger, PCV. Right is mannifold vacuum, you can hook your distributor, or anything you need full mannifold vacuum, such as transmission, cruise control. The rear port is for your brake booster.

Are their any pluses to hooking manifold vacuum to the distributor??
 
Ok...I had a leak between the carb and manifold ! So I put a 1" spacer on and the rod on the top hole of the Accel Pump. The truck takes off great from a stop, but now chugs a little when cruising around 30mph ??? Is this because of the spacer or where I have the accel pump? So many variables!!!

Also Im running with the choke valve open now! I tested the choke coil by taking it off and warming it up with a torch. It didnt move a bit !!! I have a new one on order.
 
Ok...I had a leak between the carb and manifold ! So I put a 1" spacer on and the rod on the top hole of the Accel Pump. The truck takes off great from a stop, but now chugs a little when cruising around 30mph ??? Is this because of the spacer or where I have the accel pump? So many variables!!!

.

What is this accel pump...??? lol, do i have one???
DSCF9338.jpg




Also i just bought a vacuum gauge, which also doubles as a break line bleader pump and siphon pump. $30 at auto zone. My gauge read 17 - 18 hg when i revved it up. But not much when at idle, if any....
 
Your accelerator pump is front top of you carb with the arm coming off of it with 3 holes in it. I think u should have more vacuum than that at idle.
 
Your accelerator pump is front top of you carb with the arm coming off of it with 3 holes in it. I think u should have more vacuum than that at idle.

I guess on the ported (the left) at idle their wont be vacuum but their will on the Manifold side. I just made a new thread about Ported Vs Nonported, so we shall see what people say. I guess theirs lots of different opinions on what is better. But heres the link.

http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=281270
 

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