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Chalet's rebuild - 9/24 Tranny and t-case ready, couple newb ??'s

chalet2506

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Started taking this thing apart over a year ago and now finally have the parts and gumption to put it back together.


Hopefully this thread will be running about 2 weeks and then I'll be done. If you don't like dumb questions, go ahead and hit your browser's back button. I've searched and read enough that I think I can get it right, but thinks are always a little different when you put a wrench on a bolt for the first time and I'd like a little affirmation. Specs are 4" RC all spring lift kit + 2" blocks to acommodate the camper sag and 3/4 ton axle conversion on a 76 K5 Chalet.

On lift springs - the shim points towards the front right? Thinking about, it makes sense but it doesn't say in the instructions. I searched "pointy end" but didn't come up with anything.:laugh:

Rear shackle bolt - I put a new bushing in the rear shackle and torqued it to 45#'s. Then bolted the front of the spring, put a floor jack under it to flex it out, and then bolted the rear to the shackle. Torqued those to 120#'s. Is the rear shackle supposed to pivot? I'd think it would, but just verifying. I'll probably double nut the shackle bolt because it seems like moving back and forth like that the it would eventually loosen itself.
 
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as for the wedge, the flat part faces the front and the pointy part faces the driveshaft. This will rotate the pinion up, torward the driveshaft. Same goes for the rear, the pointy part faces the driveshaft.
 
Forgot the pics, I'll start taking some as I go. Thanks for the reply on the wedge, thats what I figured, but some times I have a hard time picturing things until after they're put together. Also, I'm guessing the shackle is supposed to pivot, hence the sleeve and the bushing. My youngest has picked up an ear infection so it will probably be tomorrow before I get to do anything else.

Outside of what I mentioned in the first post, there's also plans to swap a 205 in place of my 203, add a tranny cooler, upgrade to HEI, and few other misc things.

Tires - I've got a new set of 16.5"x9.75 w/ 4.5" backspacing wheels coming. Also I've got 2 sets of HMMWV tires that are in pretty good shape - the 36.5 biases and the 37" radials. I was going to run the bias ply's, but after reading up on the balancing issues, picked up the radials because I spend a lot of time on the highway. Then I did a little deeper and it turns out the radials have weak sidewalls - how is that when they're a "d" range tire and the bias ply's are only a "c" range. You would figure the radials are a tougher tire? Would somebody mind giving me a quick tire lesson? They both have aggressive enough tread for the offroading I do, but I'd like a tire I don't have to worry about getting flats from running over brush/cactus/etc.

I'm thinking about taking all of it over to the tire shop and telling Mike if he can get the 36.5's to balance, to mount those up. If not, put the 37's on.
 
I'll probably double nut the shackle bolt because it seems like moving back and forth like that the it would eventually loosen itself.

Don't know exactly what your setup is, but my 72 K5 and my 88 Sub had OEM locking nuts on all of the suspension bolts. The nuts are slightly acorn-nut shaped and have little indentations in the domed part (usually look like triangle impressions). If you have those, you probably don't need to double nut.
 
Don't know exactly what your setup is, but my 72 K5 and my 88 Sub had OEM locking nuts on all of the suspension bolts. The nuts are slightly acorn-nut shaped and have little indentations in the domed part (usually look like triangle impressions). If you have those, you probably don't need to double nut.
I didn't see those triangles, but yep, thats what I got. I'm guessing they're reusable?
 
Hope they're reusable, I did. If I am doing this wrong, someone let me know. I check parts fairly regularly, and I've never noticed them loosening.
 
The Chalet has points - I'm positive because I've changed and gapped them. Maybe some P.O. swapped in an old dizzy in SHTF preparation.:dunno: I thought it was stock.
 
The Chalet has points - I'm positive because I've changed and gapped them. Maybe some P.O. swapped in an old dizzy in SHTF preparation.:dunno: I thought it was stock.

Definitely a PO did this. Like Dremu said the HEI was standard after 74.
 
2 weeks, yea right....

Got the 14 bolt attached via 4" RC Springs and 2" blocks and mounted my 37" HMMWV radials which are on 16.5" steelies. Its sitting a little higher than I expected - I'm guessing the springs will get a little sag after they break in. I'm going to have to get some of those RV steps to attach to the rear. Sorry, all I've got today is a a cell phone for pics. I plan on removing the Dana 44 tomorrow. Also, I'll be painting the rims black, just wanted to get them on to see how it looks.

2.jpg
 
Once i get my rear door on the camper replaced i am going down the same road shortly.
14B FF with 3.73's...still have to source.
Swap front D44 to 8 Lug outers....still have to source.
Steal H2 wheels and tires from 06 Dmax before repo.
700R4 - NP241. Have...check.
Front 4 Inch springs...check.
Rear shackle flip and zero rates...need.
Learn how to and remove l/s bedside from 80 roller i have for 77 tub to
replace chalets rotten tub. Macco tub and herculine floor. Swap cabs..and then chalet
camper to rust free tub and new body mounts. Add 90 K5 harness and steering column
i have...along with 90-1 only power mirrors....and scrounge CC parts as well.


Should take a few weeks if everything works out but well worth the work.

DW
 
I'm going with 4.10's plus a Detroit in the rear. I've got a 3.73 14bff in pretty good shape sitting here that supposedly had 4.10's when I bought it if you get down this way.
 
How do you get the external locking hub off an 8 lug 10 bolt? This is different than my dana 44. I took off the cap, got the large retaining off, then a large spindle washer(not threaded)and a small snap ring off the shaft. What's next? Looks like there's a small washer or bushing, then another larger spindle washer. I've been prying and trying to hook the little sucker for about half an hour and can't get it to budge.


Edit: I was going about it wrong. Got it off, looks like that inner gear/washer is attached to the external housing. It had so much 25 year old gunk built up and crusted that I had to take soak it with PB and take a prybar and work the housing back and forth for a bit to get it to come loose.
 
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I have found what i need locally minus making the phone call which i'll do today when i wake up and start seeing straight. The front is the easy part as you just tear down the front 10B/44 to the knuckle and then build back up with 3/4 ton backing plates - spindles - etc.

The rear is a bolt in if you use a 3/4 ton P/U axle...of course the variable will be the 205-203-241 output yoke for the correct series u-joint on both sides to avoid the
conversion u-joint.

DW
 
IMG_1624.jpg

IMG_1623.jpg
 
Need a way to mount my hi-lift. I've seen those tube clamps, do they rotate? I'd like to mount it on the inside of my front bumper where its sitting. Also, I've got the parts and should have the 10 bolt together by Monday and hopefully the front suspension and new axle bolted in by Tues.
 
Man that looks nice to see a 14B FF under a chalet.
So far i am SOL on a 3.73 unit unless i want to spend
400 bonez for a matched pair out of a 75 P/U. Wish you
were closer.

Highlift makes there own mount kit...

Gonna hit Moab tomorrow for the vendor row and ask
Mr. Watson what he thinks of a rear shackle flip on a
chalet to save coin on the rear springs.

DW
 
haha, won't that be a bit top heavy with the lift? My brother thinks his is top heavy at factory height. Still pretty cool.

Martin
 
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