we're fixin to find out.
There's a guy on our yahoo group that put a 8" superlift + 4" blocks in the rear on his and he really likes it.
CK5
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Chalet's rebuild - 9/24 Tranny and t-case ready, couple newb ??'s
- Thread starter chalet2506
- Start date
we're fixin to find out.
There's a guy on our yahoo group that put a 8" superlift + 4" blocks in the rear on his and he really likes it.
Papi Grande
1/2 ton status
Man that thing is sweet!!!...if I had that i'd always be at the lake.
Well....after more considerations about time...available funds...no job...etc.
I have changed my mind. Since the 79 is built like a tank...rust free...i think
i shall do the smart thing....remove chalet from rotted body and install on
the 79...do a rear shackle frip and we'll have to do some educated guess work
on the rear springs to get a solid 6-7 inches of lift and see how she sags...
So your chalet is GI green....and mine will be GI tan...lol.
DW
I have changed my mind. Since the 79 is built like a tank...rust free...i think
i shall do the smart thing....remove chalet from rotted body and install on
the 79...do a rear shackle frip and we'll have to do some educated guess work
on the rear springs to get a solid 6-7 inches of lift and see how she sags...
So your chalet is GI green....and mine will be GI tan...lol.
DW
ran into a snag. I hired a little local shop to do the 10 bolts ball joints. They called me around lunch to tell me that they broke their press trying to remove the old ones, but it was getting worn out anyway so they'd pick up a new one that afternoon. Called me that afternoon to say the joints didn't want to give and they thought they were going to break their new press. Its going to soak all weekend in PB and then they'll put a little heat on it Monday if they have to to get the old ones out. Hopefully I'll have it monday and can reassemble the outers.
Looks like this is the tranny cooler I'm going to go with. Stacked plate design, 32 cooling rows + correct lines and fittings to connect my th350. I just need to fab up some simple mounts.
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=CMB-13-0034&N=700+115&autoview=sku
TRE's - I need new ones but never realized that the driver side is a 4 footer. Going to cost about $160 at Napa for both sides to keep it stock and simple. I thought about getting a hd one from ORD, but would still have to buy both ends plus a new u-bolt type steering stabilizer - so it would end up costing more for beef I probably don't need.
Looks like this is the tranny cooler I'm going to go with. Stacked plate design, 32 cooling rows + correct lines and fittings to connect my th350. I just need to fab up some simple mounts.
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=CMB-13-0034&N=700+115&autoview=sku
TRE's - I need new ones but never realized that the driver side is a 4 footer. Going to cost about $160 at Napa for both sides to keep it stock and simple. I thought about getting a hd one from ORD, but would still have to buy both ends plus a new u-bolt type steering stabilizer - so it would end up costing more for beef I probably don't need.
If they can't get the balljoints out....
Which i have no clue why they can't as in all my years i have never had that issue...
I have the old knuckles from my chalet sitting on the shelf in need of new ball joints.
If you tire of dealing with them you can send me the new joints and or pay for the new
ones i can source here (Moog) and then install them into my knuckles i don't need and ship them to you clean and with new joints.
I am going to gut the camper this week and start laying down new flooring and redo and glass in the plywood in the entry area in prep for the new door. Once that is done i will unbolt her and get her ready to swap onto the 79. And then go from there...so i better call mr. watson monday for some 4 inch rear shackle flips to get the 79 ready for the camper...thinking 4" flip brackets...2" springs and zero rates to get her level with camper. Also thinking about the ord traction bar while i am in there...
DW
Which i have no clue why they can't as in all my years i have never had that issue...
I have the old knuckles from my chalet sitting on the shelf in need of new ball joints.
If you tire of dealing with them you can send me the new joints and or pay for the new
ones i can source here (Moog) and then install them into my knuckles i don't need and ship them to you clean and with new joints.
I am going to gut the camper this week and start laying down new flooring and redo and glass in the plywood in the entry area in prep for the new door. Once that is done i will unbolt her and get her ready to swap onto the 79. And then go from there...so i better call mr. watson monday for some 4 inch rear shackle flips to get the 79 ready for the camper...thinking 4" flip brackets...2" springs and zero rates to get her level with camper. Also thinking about the ord traction bar while i am in there...
DW
I think peter and pecker can probably get it. Guess you're going to be build some sort of steel frame to accomodate the front camper floor where the floor drops in the "79?
Perfect time to swap to TBI....
DW
DW
jonathon
1/2 ton status
What sort of a knuckleheads work at a shop that can't press ball joints out with a press 
I wonder if they forgot to remove the clips 
Even on my crusty ass D44 knuckles they popped right out, and I was lazy and used a bfh and a giant punch.
I wonder if they forgot to remove the clips Even on my crusty ass D44 knuckles they popped right out, and I was lazy and used a bfh and a giant punch.
They are not top heavy, I have driven both a regular K5 and a chalet and I tell you the way I drove the chalet you would think it's a race car.
I will be lifting mine soon if I don't sell it.
By the way the body mounts are on their way, sorry for the delay, and I didn't find the shifter knob yet.
Not sure what i am going to do about that "nook" of space i'll have behind the seats.
It would be a good place for a bottle jack...and other vehicle specific items i suppose
as it in no way effects the camper mounting...
I'll keep that in mind...
DW
It would be a good place for a bottle jack...and other vehicle specific items i suppose
as it in no way effects the camper mounting...
I'll keep that in mind...
DW
supersize75k5
OrganDonorRacing.com
there is a 3.73 diff here in phx for 60.00..
lectric80
3/4 ton status
I think what he is trying to explain is that you will need something to support the front floor of the Chalet. It probably wouldn't need to be much, but at least an angle iron structure to support that floor. Without it you run the risk of having that section of floor collapse.
However, you could easily have a simple frame to support the floor, and still have plenty of storage room for a jack or other items, like trail spares.
Front End
Its raining and humid today, so I'm baking on the caliper paint. Waiting on Napa to deliver the correct wheel seals so I can put the front hubs back on the 10 bolt, but hopefully will have it bolted up this afternoon.
Its raining and humid today, so I'm baking on the caliper paint. Waiting on Napa to deliver the correct wheel seals so I can put the front hubs back on the 10 bolt, but hopefully will have it bolted up this afternoon.
10 bolt spindle problems.
Passenger side hub is binding when I get it together. Would rust pitting and small irregularities on the inner bearing surface cause this? Its the only thing I can find. I noticed this before I started putting it together but thought that the inner collar of that bearing was stationary once installed and that the bearings and outer collar did the moving.
If that's the problem, can I use a spindle off my old Dana 44? My new axle is off an early 80's, external lockout 10 bolt.
****'s getting irritating, I've been dicking with this all day and had figure'd I'd have the front axle in. Its time to go home, I've got the wrong bolts for the front shackles, new brakelines aren't in, and now my freakin axle won't go together. Sorry about the rant.
Passenger side hub is binding when I get it together. Would rust pitting and small irregularities on the inner bearing surface cause this? Its the only thing I can find. I noticed this before I started putting it together but thought that the inner collar of that bearing was stationary once installed and that the bearings and outer collar did the moving.
If that's the problem, can I use a spindle off my old Dana 44? My new axle is off an early 80's, external lockout 10 bolt.
****'s getting irritating, I've been dicking with this all day and had figure'd I'd have the front axle in. Its time to go home, I've got the wrong bolts for the front shackles, new brakelines aren't in, and now my freakin axle won't go together. Sorry about the rant.
external lockouts are only found on 3/4 ton d44's that were pre 77.
If your using a pre 77 hub, you must use a pre 77 spindle. If your using a 77 and newer hub , you must use a 77 and newer spindle. They will not interchange. afaik, the newer hub will fit over the older spindle, but will not seat the bearing properly. the other way around, it wont even go on all the way.
bp71k5
3/4 ton status
If it's binding when you tighten the spindle nuts down, I'd have to guess they are too tight or you're bearings are bad. The spindle should be ok as long as it's not pitted on the seal surface.
Edit: See Dean's replay above. The bearings are also different between the two.
Edit: See Dean's replay above. The bearings are also different between the two.
So logically, the 10 bolt is pre 77, as is my Dana 44. I just assumed it was the original match to the 14 bolt, which has a build code on the ring gear of I think 81.
I took it apart and looked again before I left, and I was thinking about this on the way home. The bearing surface is fine, its the middle of the spindle where the rust is. When I took it apart originally, I punched the races and old bearings out and took it to Napa to get the rotors turned. They had to install the new races to be able to machine the rotors. I assumed they were straight, but would bet money now one of them is crooked. Will clean it up Monday check it out. All races and bearings are new, so they should be good. Thanks for the replies fellas.
I took it apart and looked again before I left, and I was thinking about this on the way home. The bearing surface is fine, its the middle of the spindle where the rust is. When I took it apart originally, I punched the races and old bearings out and took it to Napa to get the rotors turned. They had to install the new races to be able to machine the rotors. I assumed they were straight, but would bet money now one of them is crooked. Will clean it up Monday check it out. All races and bearings are new, so they should be good. Thanks for the replies fellas.
There was no 10 b axles pre 77.
All are 77 and up, or even 78, but for sure they are interchangeable with post 77 D44 parts.
When you say bonds, what exactly happens?
Is the rotor or hub hitting the backing plate and binding or does it feel internal?
Need more input to help you, but it could be the model differences.
So newer axle, older hubs. Its internal, there's a pretty good catch, and then as I'm rotating it another smaller one about 90 degrees around. Same places catch every time around.
Haven't had time to work on this, but thinking about it I should be able to take one of the spindles off my 76 6 lug d44 and replace the one thats binding on the 10 bolt. While I have it apart I'll recheck the bearings and and also make sure the races are seated properly.
